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Mopar1973Man

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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man

  1. Turbo Inspection Operation Exhaust gas pressure (drive pressure) and energy drive the turbine, which in turn drives a centrifugal compressor that compresses the inlet air (boost pressure), and forces the air into the engine through the intercooler and plumbing. Since heat is a by-product of this compression, the air must pass through an intercooler to cool the incoming air and maintain power and efficiency. Increasing air flow to the engine provides: Improved engine performance Lower exhaust smoke density Improved operating economy Altitude compensation Noise reduction. The turbocharger also uses a wastegate, which regulates intake manifold air pressure and prevents over boosting at high engine speeds. When the wastegate valve is closed, all of the exhaust gases flow through the turbine wheel. As the intake manifold pressure increases, the wastegate actuator opens the valve, diverting some of the exhaust gases away from the turbine wheel. This limits turbine shaft speed and air output from the impeller. The turbocharger is lubricated by engine oil that is pressurized, cooled, and filtered. The oil is delivered to the turbocharger by a supply line that is tapped into the oil filter head. The oil travels into the bearing housing, where it lubricates the shaft and bearings. A return pipe at the bottom of the bearing housing routes the engine oil back to the crankcase. The most common turbocharger failure is bearing failure related to repeated hot shutdowns with inadequate “cool-down” periods. A sudden engine shutdown after the prolonged operation will result in the transfer of heat from the turbine section of the turbocharger to the bearing housing. This causes the oil to overheat and breaks down, which causes bearing and shaft damage the next time the vehicle is started. Letting the engine idle after extended operation allows the turbine housing to cool to normal operating temperature. Mopar's Notes: You should allow your pyrometer to fall below 300°F before shutdown. If you don't have a pyrometer I highly recommend you purchase a pyrometer gauge and install it. There is also turbo timers that allow the driver to turn off the ignition and lock up the vehicle. The engine will continue to run for set time and then shut down. These add-ons will extend the life of your turbo greatly. Turbo Inspection Procedure Visually inspect the turbocharger and exhaust manifold gasket surfaces. Replace stripped or eroded mounting studs. 1. Visually inspect the turbocharger for cracks. The following cracks are NOT acceptable: Cracks in the turbine and compressor housing that go completely through. Cracks in the mounting flange that are longer than 15 mm (0.6 in.). Cracks in the mounting flange that intersect bolt through-holes. Two (2) Cracks in the mounting flange that are closer than 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) together. 2. Visually inspect the impeller and compressor wheel fins for nicks, cracks, or chips. Note: Some impellers may have a factory placed paint mark which, after normal operation, appears to be a crack. Remove this mark with a suitable solvent to verify that it is not a crack. 3. Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor housing for an impeller rubbing condition (Fig. 25). Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists. 4. Measure the turbocharger axial end play: a. Install a dial indicator as shown in (Fig. 26). Zero the indicator at one end of travel. b. Move the impeller shaft fore and aft and record the measurement. Allowable end play is 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) MIN. and 0.089 mm (0.0035in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these parameters, replace the turbocharger assembly. 5. Measure the turbocharger bearing radial clearance: a. Insert a narrow blade or wire style feeler gauge between the compressor wheel and the housing(Fig. 27). b. Gently push the compressor wheel toward the housing and record the clearance. c. With the feeler gauge in the same location, gently push the compressor wheel away from the housing and again record the clearance. d. Subtract the smaller clearance from the larger clearance. This is the radial bearing clearance. e. Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.326mm (0.0128 in.) MIN. and 0.496 mm (0.0195 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these specifications, replace the turbocharger assy.
  2. Mopar1973Man posted an Cummins article in Air & Exhaust
    Description The intercooler system (Fig. 28) consists of the intercooler piping, intercooler and intake air grid heater. The intercooler is a heat exchanger that uses air flow from vehicle motion to dissipate heat from the intake air. As the turbocharger increases air pressure, the air temperature increases. Lowering the intake air temperature increases engine efficiency and power. Operation Intake air is drawn through the air cleaner and into the turbocharger compressor housing. Pressurized air from the turbocharger then flows forward through the intercooler located in front of the radiator. From the intercooler, the air flows back into the intake manifold. Inspection Visually inspect the intercooler for cracks, holes, or damage. Inspect the tubes, fins, and welds for tears, breaks, or other damage. Replace the intercooler if the damage is found. Pressure test the intercooler, using Charge Air Cooler Tester Kit #3824556. This kit is available through Cummins Service Products. Instructions are provided with the kit. You can also use the below to test for boost leaks with turbos with a 4" inlet Mopar's Notes: Many people have created their own air system or intercooler testing equipment from common plumbing part at a hardware store. Basically, you want to cap off the turbo and have an air connection that is regulated to 20-25 PSI maximum. You can spray down the air system with soapy water and look for leaks (bubbles) or see if the pressure falls off. WARNING! Do not use caustic cleaners to clean the charge air cooler. Damage to the intercooler will result. If internal debris cannot be removed from the intercooler, the intercooler MUST be replaced. 1. If the engine experiences a turbocharger failure or any other situation where oil or debris get into the intercooler, the intercooler must be cleaned internally. 2. Position the intercooler so the inlet and outlet tubes are vertical. 3. Flush the intercooler internally with a solvent in the direction opposite of normal air flow. 4. Shake the intercooler and lightly tap on the end tanks with a rubber mallet to dislodge trapped debris. 5. Continue flushing until all debris or oil are removed. 6. Rinse the intercooler with hot soapy water to remove any remaining solvent. 7. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and blow dry with compressed air.
  3. Unknown. It's been broke since the day I bought the truck back in 2001. Since MoparMom and myself agreed to put effort into these truck and fix what I can. Since The_Hammer is starting a interior thread I figured I put some effort into the truck today. Educated guess. It did bind up at some point. The previous owner used pilers or channel locks to spin the rod to adjust the seat. Sad part is I've got a seat from a 2000 Dodge but the motors are way different. I'm going to place these 2000 Dodge seat motors up for sale. I'm going to head into town and get plastic epoxy tomorrow attempt to get these glue back together.
  4. All I can say is they are expensive for a pair of electric adjust and heated mirrors.
  5. Update... Gorilla Glue doesn't bind to plastic very well. So project delayed till Monday.
  6. Hey Gang... I figured I would share my attempt at fixing my electric driver seat on my 1996 Dodge Ram. Now when I started the motor wouldn't even turn. So I verified the power was coming from the switch. Rock the switch one way you got power and rock it the other and power again but reversed polarity which is correct. No I grabbed a Allen socket and turned the motor a bit by had and it got loosen up. Then I can hit the switch and the motor turns for a short time binds up. (sigh) something is wrong in the gears. So after slowing ratching the motor around I was able to get the seat high enough to pull the 4 bolts in the seat bottom and just lay in the back seat area. Now I got good working room. Now you'll need a rod or in my case I used a small #1 Phillips screw driver and a hammer to knock out the 2 pins. There is one pin holding the motor and the other pin holding the screw casing to the seat frame. Now from here I got the motor out and the gear case is just a couple of small hex head metal screws. As you'll see the both gears are damaged. One is completely broke the tip off and the other split the gear (not shown). Now using lacquer thinner I cleaned both gears up and got all the grease off the gears. Next using some Gorilla Glue and a razor blade I was able to push the Gorilla Glue all the way down in the cracks really well. Using my table vise I clamped the gear carefully to squeeze the plastic back together and allow the glue to set up. This will be easy to clean up with a small shop knife or file to clean the gear up. Now I moved on to the broken gear. Found it was hollow so I hunted around the shop for something solid I can place in the core of the gear to give strength after gluing. I found a metal clothes hanger and snip a very small chunk off. Light reamed out the hole just enough to make it solid. So I'm waiting for the one gear to set up right now and then I'll glue this gear as well.
  7. Here you go a wiring diagram. exterior.pdf exterior.pdf
  8. Posts like this, make me lose faith in ASE certified mechanics. As for getting any money back I doubt it. As for diagnosing this... There is a few different thing involved here. You have the ABS computer bringing the speed signal. The central timer under the dash receiving the input from the steering wheel. PCM that has the cruise control software. Then feed throttle information to the ECM by wire. So as for the cruise light being on I would start at the steering wheel control and central timer.
  9. 2-3 inches... Nothing to write home about....
  10. Call Module Masters in Moscow, Idaho. They rebuild modules and clusters for a fraction of the price. Have a excellent warranty on the work too.
  11. I just ran across some of my "Creosote Makers" when bringing in my firewood today. This little piece of wood with this thick layer of pitch will create some serious smoke and creosote. As this is kind of after the initial black... But its still smoking hard after one little piece put in the fire.
  12. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pothHyqnIWM
  13. Could you paste a link or a upload attachment for that map...
  14. CSM is correct. There should be a heated mirror button just below the temperature knob for the HVAC. There is a little light on the control that will light up. The mirrors don't light up.
  15. Neither do. The only thing that cleans the system is a quality fuel filter. If you want to clean your injectors you have to remove them and disassemble each one and clean by hand. There is no product on the shelf that will clean the fuel system. Just for example Power Service is 400:1 ratio so that means you add 11.2 ounces of Power Service to 4,480 ounces of fuel. More or less pissin' in a pond. I know that you can pick any product take a single injector and soak it for over 24 hours 100% of any product and still have a dirty injector. tried it... No. Return pressure is not a requirement. 14-20 PSI supply pressure is the only requirement.
  16. I say the switch has failed. The relay is only for the trailer running lights. Different circuit.
  17. Not hard at all to do just time consuming. I've got heater core job coming Sunday.
  18. Matter of fact I just got off the phone with my Fire Chief this evening. He's trying to get me to jump in the HVAC for homes. The local guy here is charging huge numbers for charging freon in a system. Ranging from $1,800 to nearly $3,000 for freon charging. He knows of several homes in the area that have heat pumps and the owners just don't have the money to charge them. So they spend big money on propane or electric heat. Just while I was on the phone I did a search for a 30# can of freon for as low as $79 buck for R134a and $379 for R22. Just sickening to see a local that knows he's the only one in the area and stab everyone for this steep price. Sure did catch my attention on the R134a though $79 buck for 30# of it that's cheap! I know what I'm doing for spring time I'm going to invest in a scale and 30# can for summer time automotive A/C work!
  19. I know in the old school Dodge trucks (1970's) there was a adjustment on the knuckles for stop points. Our trucks there isn't any stop point. So I would be inspecting all the linkage for loose ends or damaged ball joints. Something is wore out and allowing that tie rod to hit the differential which is not normal.
  20. I highly suggest you just pull the entire thing down and open the HVAC case. I've found in several cases the evaporator is plugged up with debris. Could be from mice, pine needles, etc. But it will do you no good to change heater core and have the evaporator plugged up or blend door on a broken shaft etc. With the HVAC case out you can inspect all this stuff.
  21. My first web site I joined was Diesel Truck Resource. Then joined Cummins Forum short after that.
  22. A lot of people down south delete the grid heater all together. I've started my truck at the low temp of 25*F once and rather rough start missing, lots of white smoke till the cylinder temp came up then it settled down and ran normally. I would say it best to start with grid heaters on a initial cold start after that you can leave the switch in MPG mode.
  23. Just like my photo here... You can see I'm sitting on a 3 panel scale. This is my scale numbers for my RV but you'll get the drift.

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