
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Teardown and Rebuild
Next thing I'm waiting for now is to see how long it will last before he pops a head gasket. The slippery slope of modifying a Cummins.
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Cold blooded
I run the unverisal yello because its more common than the HOAT and typically cheaper. As for performance still have a perfect cooling system.
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What Happen
Well the software is in place now which your seeing. This meets all the current internet standards for desktop and mobile devices. As for the caching bug from last week it done and over with. I got that resolved for the most part just a matter of adjusting the cache settings now and cleaning up the under the hood stuff. No longer have two skins this is a responsive skin that automatically reacts to the mobile device or desktop instantly and display proper format even when you rotate you mobile device.
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Cold blooded
I've switch over to yellow universal.
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2007 5.9 Fuel Pump Fuse or Relay Location
Still could be leaking oil out the exhaust side of the turbo too so don't discount that either.
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The time has come to produce the Mopar1973Man High Idle & MPG fooler switches again.
I've got to bench test the store with Nick (Me78569) and verify that it working properly as well.
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The time has come to produce the Mopar1973Man High Idle & MPG fooler switches again.
Now that I've over come the caching issues I can work with Nick (Me78569) to finish the store set up and get everything working so we can sell the product.
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Cold blooded
I still think Dripley's problem is the chopped up electrical or damaged ECM on the temp sensor...
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Cold blooded
Measure with another mechanical gauge or IR temperature gun.
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2007 5.9 Fuel Pump Fuse or Relay Location
That would be my guess too. Even the 2nd gen don't have a fuel pump fuse or a relay either and its directly controlled by the ECM. I'm going to say that the 3rd Gens are also the same way controlled by the ECM so the only thing you can do is unplug the connector at the fuel tank. Be aware it will throw a CEL for that.
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Power steering fluid
For our 2nd Gen truck all our truck take standard power steering fluid. (Non-synthetic). Using synthetic power steering fluid is a bonus but becomes very costly to flush every 30k miles. It takes about 1 gallon to flush and refill a system properly. This doesn't mean using a turkey baster either. No you can't extend the interval for using synrhetics because there is no filter system so extending the interval just mean longer debris is allowed to ruin the pump, gear box and hydro-booster. ATF is not supposed to be used in our systems. 3rd Gen (2003 and up) yes your suppose to use ATF.
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0122 followed by 1693 once APPS is replaced
I tend to agree. I would get a cheap code reader and at least check for code. Normally all codes are held for 40 warm up cycles. If the code is not trigger again after the 40 warm up cycles then it auto erased. A warm up cycle is start from a coolant temp below 140*F and rising over 165*F. That is one warm up cycle. So if you do several start and stop events in one day you would have to let it cool completely down to below 140*F to get a second warm up cycle.
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The time has come to produce the Mopar1973Man High Idle & MPG fooler switches again.
I just got a package from Me78569 today. All I can say is WOW! Here is a teaser for everyone...
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MPG loss from changing injectors
Caching issues I'm still working on it.
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Big Line Kit
Crankcase vent on the front of the gear case.
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manometer blowby test
I'm thinking about just buying the cheap Harbor freight compression test which gives me the gauge and hose and some adapters. Then pick up a Cummins test injector and I've got a compression tester I can use.
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Torque Converter Lock / Unlock Issues
Pepsi71Ocean found that a bad set of slip ring brushes can create high AC noise issues as well so it might of been that as a cause too.
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abs
Don't feel bad I've got the same issue. I'm getting tired of the ABS and BRAKE light always on. I look a dark dash it means everything is working properly.
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Valve Seals? occasional oil smoke.
No doubt about that... Radiator, coolers, etc. Then pull the gear case open, make rods for the tappets and lift then and then pull the cam. Not fun at all... I've never done it yet but I know sooner or later I will...
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Site Update & Jobs
Last night I laid in bed talking to good ol' Dripley (David Ripley) and had my tablet with me. I continued to tinker with the site on the tablet verifying function and user friendliness so far so good. I'm working on improving everything but there is only so much I can get done in a day. Like today I've got two 12V Dodge's sitting in the yard one got a fresh set of +50HP injectors to replace the +150HP injectors that were overly lopey, smokey, and stall happy. Transmission kickdown cable wasn't even installed. Then come to find out the previous shop forgot to put 2 bolts back in the manifold plate. There is a laundry list on this one that need to be dealt with. The other 12V needed to have the tubing to the boost gauge re-ran after the mice ate it. So I'm busy turning wrench through the day. The owner is get ready to leave for Mexico with the truck so he wants my personal touch like last year so he's not having issues in Mexico. Then get interrupted by a broke down RV that blew the A/C compressor pulley and I just spent nearly a hour running back and forth getting information, pictures, numbers etc trying to identify this compressor. No you couldn't just look up in a book it was a custom A/C system by Bounder on a Ford Chassis. Very rare compressor and found one in Washington be here by morning! So back to turning wrench and running the highway.
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Quick change oil pan gasket mod.
I would never cut a frame structure like that. I bet money that truck has frame issues later in life.
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The time has come to produce the Mopar1973Man High Idle & MPG fooler switches again.
No. These are strictly the old length yet. Give us some time for the next batch and we'll see if we can make it longer for overhead console use. Nice part is it just the cable need to manufactured longer. Being modular you can change that fairly easy.
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manometer blowby test
The only reason the blowby test came out is most don't want to spend money on the special tool to do the compression test. So the blow by test was simple for the general public to do and did require the costly tool. Like I said the only way to test each cylinder is compression test though.
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Steering problem 2wd
I've had to re-adjust my steering box a few times. Eventually I'll have to pull my box and do both the sector and bearing pre-load adjustment of the box. All listed in the FSM. Also if the is wear occurring and the fluid is dark colored its time to flush the system out.
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manometer blowby test
Dry test compression is fine and will show low compression cylinders vs. blowby which is a summation of all cylinder blowby. Like JL Welding found out you can crack one piston and still pass a blowby test but fail a compression test because compression test will show lower on a damaged cylinder. It will show othere thing a blowby won't like blown head gasket between cylinders will show up as a low number on two cylinders. Also using the compression test hose and compressed air you can pressurize the cylinder and feel the air escape through the adjacent cylinder. So blowby test is a quickie test but no conclusive of what is going on.