Mopar1973Man

Here is the link for signature for you... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ Not really. Some software don't have a lift pump signal at key on and other like mine only have 1 second burst. That's why you watch the fuel pressure gauge after starting. If the pressure is between 14-20 PSI then you fine. At key on doesn't count. Also any time your testing for the WTS / Lift pump you must leave the key OFF for at least 5-10 seconds for the ECM to shut down. If you cycle the key too rapidly then the previous booted software is still use because it never completed so you might not see a lift pump burst or a wait to start light.

Agreed!

Hmmm... What choices do you have for fuel rate? VIN is available on later years of trucks. Our is buried in a special hidden area.

Its both... Going down the road WOT it maxed out about 40 MPH. Power dropping out. Come back home sitting in the driveway it quits firing in burst. Surge and lopey idle which you can see rolling up and down in rail pressure. I'm starting to think the rail pressure regulator is purging pressure off. I don't have a test plug yet. Can't remember that was a week ago. All I remember was it was the FCA. I check codes and basic stats before touching anything on the engine. First day I see the truck it had the code and rail pressure was low (4,000 to 6,000 PSI) barely do 60 MPH then. After laying in bed think about it last night and the fact if you disconnect the FCA there is no change in rail pressure tells me the FCA has been wide open all the time and the rail is purging out through the regulator. So if the flow rate is high then the lift pump most likely can't keep up. So I'm going to try and create a test plug or something for the regulator temporarily to see if the rail pressure pops up.

Lift pump voltage is correct. it should be a modulated 50% duty cycle during cranking and 12V when running. If the wait to start light is not coming on the ECM is not booting up. Basically brain dead. The first instruction typically is throw the WAIT TO START light and then check IAT temp and grid heaters. If no wait to start light then there is internal memory issues in the ECM and never complete its boot up process. As for what might be messing up the ECM is the alternator. If the alternator is creating excessive AC noise it will kill the ECM. Here is the engine wiring... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring

On the front of the damper there is 2 tick marks and you need to check and see if the two tick marks are still lined up. Auto. Hmm... As for the shifting that I'll leave to "Dynamic" he's the site tranny guru. Might as him about the shift issue and the flex plate.

Yeah its true... One big family of Cummins owners.

Stock everything. No tune. Stock fuel system. Fresh filter. When it drops below 3,000 PSI it becomes lopey and you can see the rail pressure bouncing. As it quits firing and the rail builds it pops again with a surge and rail drops again. Cold it just fine runs good. But the fuel pressure is also good too.

Flex plate issues maybe? Damper on the crank good not slipped?

Thanks John... I'll being think about doing this very soon!

600-700*F in 6 Cylinder mode with Exhaust brake. 800-900*F in 3 Cylinder mode with Exhaust brake. So... yeah it really does bump the numbers way up!

Drove only 3 miles and power drops off to about to 40 MPH WOT. Rail drops to 3,000 PSI roughly at WOT. Like today we installed a brand new fuel pump (Stock In Tank - NAPA) tested the pressure at the CP3 inlet port seeing 11-13 idle to holding 2,000 RPM free rev. Left the shop. Good rail pressure getting 11,000 to 13,000 PSI driving nicely to allow the truck to warm up. Drove up canyon made it 3 miles and the rail drop out to nearly 2,800-3,000 PSI at WOT. Come back test the lift pump and can pull it down to 3-5 just free revving at 2,000 RPM. I'm really sure the lift pump is dropping to ZERO on a load. I check the fuse, relay, and made sure 12V was getting to the pump. Just not keeping fuel pressure. So I've got another pump coming on warranty tomorrow in McCall. This time I'm going to leave my test gauge on the fuel system when test drive this next go around. Once the fuel pressure drops out its barely 3-5 at idle and rail is at 1,900 PSI and loping/surging at idle. Stalls really easy. Previous initial problem was a error code for the FCA. So I did replace it and no change in performance same issue no error codes. That what lead me to the lift pump. Now we are trying to just keep fuel pressure up so it will keep going. I'm using a Vulcan Performance test gauge 0-30 PSI. Brand New.... As for changing these pump its for the birds...

Things are getting a bit touchy as time goes on and moved to Politics forum.

Curious AH64ID... I know Cowboy made that article on using BB's and air soft BB's is that a option in your book too? I was considering getting a few boxes of BB's and measuring out what Cowboy figured and just installing then to the tires by breaking one bead.

What needs to be done. All the stock supply plumbing need to be removed. Then a Draw Straw in the tank. Install all 1/2" plumbing with Push-Loc JICs fittings. Then you'll have stable fuel pressure. None of the old stock system should be used or left on the truck really.

Time for silicone boots and fresh clamps.

Stock APPS is based on voltage. So looking at the back off the sensor have a voltage tag. BELOW should ground the idle pin. ABOVE will ground the THROTTLING pin. Timbo's APPS its based on bellcrank angle and not on voltage.

That old lift pump and plumbing need to go away if you got a FASS pump on there now.

Well after getting the Vulcan Performance test gauge and hooking it up we found this truck only has a mere 5 PSI at idle. Now rev the engint to 2k and you can pull it down to zero without even putting it into gear. New in-tank fuel pump will be hear in the morning. All I can say is these thing are a PITA to deal with. We did the bed lift idea and man that's a PITA too. All the rusted bolts in the bed. All the stuck and hung up connectors on the tail lights. As for installing it does make it easy being the tank it full of fuel better than pumping the tank out.

Uh Oh?! Did you mess with the voltage setting of the APPS sensor? If so it will cause issues. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment

If need be you could unhook the cable for temporary time so you can drive. Remember the shift pattern will be goofy without it.

Actually I know the reason on that it was a BoD decision to limit non-donating member to the tech topics. So once your donation lapsed your account rolled back to normal member and the forum s became off limits.

It should be ZERO after the lift pump cycles. 5 PSI means there is something wrong with your gauge. I would be considering checking your gauge for accuracy. 14-20 PSI is suggest and the lowest you should see is 14 PSI at a WOT stand. 10 PSI is the book minimum but risky...

This picture will look like the tip is touching the bottom of the tank but it not. There is a gap the thickness of a quarter coin between the tip and the tank bottom. As for the tip you'll see I lightly notched the tip with a grinder disc so it can hold suction to the bottom. The fuel in the picture is just a quart. As you can see it still covering the tip but this is the only bit of fuel the AirDog 150 couldn't pick up.

Here is a eye opener for the stock gauge...