Mopar1973Man

Like all conversion project is the question is the front suspension going to hold the weight of the massive Cummins? Then the size of fit is next problem. I would say most likely it would fit being that the 1st Gen Dodge you could swap 12V or V8 in the same frame without much work at all. I think the dog house inside the cab might need some customizing to fit the long engine and room for the turbo and exhaust.

This area isn't like ND where jobs and money are plentiful. Very low budget here. Most people are buying second hand vehicles which may or may not have issues. Very rare does anyone buy a new vehicle here in this valley. Again this is one absolute case I know of but there is several others I've talked to local with other brand like Ford having Regen issues. Or in like the case of the fire dept with Ford blowing a EGR cooler and no one wanting to do the job locally because they don't have the know how. True... But if you only get a generic answer and no diagnostic value with some. Like the local Chevron station has a "$50 scan tool" which spits out a Pxxxx number but no other information. If you look up online you'll find that OBDII codes vary from brand to brand and model to model. So just getting a generic definition isn't much help either unless you have the diagnostic book to go with it and how to test for said error codes. Remember for the longest time every one said that P1693 code was the Injection Pump failing... Should also look at error codes now... No longer a decimal number now manufacturfes are using Hexidemical numbers for codes because of all the different things they want to test for.

Flip side... There are owners that... 1) Too far from a dealer to get things fixed under warranty or not 2) Just want the truck to run without all the BS alarms scream "Regen" 3) Want to at least know what the Check Engine light is on for. From my point of view the phone ring here with newer and newer truck having issues. No local diesel shop that want or willing to work on them. So it depends on where you live it a big city where dealers and shop are plentiful sure. Out here where everything is a minimum of 100 miles for services might not be the same.

No joke after doing the 6.7L delete for the local gent I was shocked at the power difference. Still stock fuelled but man lot more power that stock trim for 2007-2008 truck. Much more power than my 2002 even its current lay out. Owner didn't want to ask but I told him for sure his 6.7L would bet me hands down for power now. Thing is there is still a market for doing diagnostic and troubleshooting articles for the newer generations. Just need folk to write the articles...

I would welcome any diesel owners... Still the majority would be Dodge / Ram Cummins but I would welcome Toyota and Nissan diesel as well. We would have to pass this through the BoD. I'm sure they would say "yes" as well.

California has laws now to force you to trade up to newer trucks. Our fire department is buying these California rejects for super cheap and making fire trucks out of them. I'm glad I live in Idaho away from smog testing "yet". Just tell me that any vehicle emits this kind of emissions... One forest fire emits more than all the US vehicles on the road... (Picture was shot at 12 noon)

Yeah... I say you found it. This one was just as bad at about 3 VAC... As you can see the diodes are well cooked. Increasing the size of the alternator may just increase the failure. As amperage goes up so does the heat on the diodes so make sure the diodes are rated even higher than the 200 amps other than that you just going to cook them quicker. Also remember to increase your gauge of wire from the alternator stock wire is only marginal good enough for the full 140 Amps. Watts (Heat) = Voltage (13.5 to 14.5) x Amperage As more amperage means more heat...

I look at it from the stand point of normal cruising the ratio is most likely close to 1:1 for most people but its when the hammer is dropped that things get stupid quick. Like I know my Hx35W and my +50 HP injectors and Edge Comp is pushing the upper end pretty hard. But I'm normally not drag racing everyone on the highway nor am I towing day in and day out. So understanding the limitations of my set up is key... There has to be some sort of ratio that is usable and what is not. Heck we could always throw a H1C turbo on that thing has a huge exhaust housing at 21cm2 that should do it right...

That should work fine. The machine should put load on the alternator too so the diodes will warm up a bit and might fail as the load is put on the alternator.

Harbor Freight has 1/2" drills with chuck key. http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/electric-drills.html

Pull the alternator take to a shop to be tested. Ask for a diode ripple test to be done. Tomorrow morning works better for me.

OK... What is the AC noise voltage from the alternator?

Keep going... EPA, CARB, etc. Take down most of these alphabet agencies...

Ran so far 253k miles... Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, Valvoline Blue, etc. 15w-40. No issues on petroleum products.

So basically the tone ring came loose?

I'll keep that in my mind next time this comes up...

Like on the 96 Dodge Ram that wire is also there too. Short distance down there is a fuse. Then runs all the way back to the driver side tail light. I assume the previous owner had a canopy on the truck and that was power for the light. Is it possible it the same thing? Dave... I say its time to pull the gauge out and check the connection on the back side. Then check the ground for that wiring where its at it might be loose ring terminal. Then just for the sake of being sure check the connection of the sensor on the transmission. Most gauges are rather simple. Positive, Negative, Sensor lead might be 1,2 or 3 wires depends on manufacture.

Just like Bill's rig how could it be dirtier with better MPG's? If your using less fuel then there has to be less emissions.

Mine are from an old aluminium road sign. Only a single bolt...

Intake horn of course is colder for all trucks. But the 24V has a coolant passage in intake manifold. Why don't ask... but it's there. Since the ECM uses the data from the IAT the intake horn is meaningless. So you have to watch the IAT sensor temps and what its report to understand what is going on. 1/2" Pipe plug in between the sensors is coolant passage.

Yeah different... Stock SO pump here. Very very quiet with the MPG fooler on just like a 3rd Gen. But flip the switch back you can hear the old 24V rattle again. The rattle get worse as temperature fall colder. By the time 0*F is reached it almost sound like a mechanic attempting to beat his way out with a sledge hammer till the IAT comes up.

No joke. I sit here and shake my head at the devices that put on these vehicles. Like my favorite is EGR valve. If you inject CO2 into a fire the fire dies out. So why would you inject it into your engine intake? I know the answer why EPA / CARB add EGR valves but still in all more CO2 added to the air the more fuel is required to make the same power. Being there is less air to burn it make for a inefficient burn in the cylinder no matter how you want to slice it. Then add a DPF in the exhaust to create back pressure trying to collect carbon dust. Then pump excessive amounts of fuel during the exhaust stroke to burn the filter out. More fuel wasted. Then AH64ID showing the stock timing table for 3rd Gen's and how nasty its laid out. Most of the table is After Top Dead Center. There is nothing efficient about the newer designs...

That could be rather thin for margin. So for stock turbo and your running 30 PSI and where 33 PSI drive pressure or a mere 3 PSI difference that is your 10%.

But if you reverse it and go mild on the injectors then you can take advantage of the tuner software (fuel and timing maps) and make better gains efficiency wise. Running larger injectors will get you the power granted but being on the lowest setting of the box you won't gain the timing and fuel maps. Man this is when I wish I could program like AH64ID with Smarty.