Mopar1973Man

Even long haul I still stop every 100-150 miles or so. I done a few trip of 600 miles in a day. Even at 100-150 miles that's 2-3 hours of sitting in the seat. Even when I did ride along with "Fetch N Carry" trucking the driver are the same way about 2-3 hours and stop. Very few people can go beyond that... Again this is local trucking on US95 and not interstate travel like most do.

Even if I was to drive to Boise, ID I would start and stop the engine a few times. I do stop to take pee breaks, grab a bite to eat, stretch my legs, etc. So no matter what you going to stop and shut down a few times regardless. For a few minutes or longer. This is "real life" not a lab exercise or dyno-run where it can be left running forever. UPS driver LOL... You should see ours. Start it up and hit the highway and stomped to the floor board WOT till he reaches 65-70 MPH. I won't knock the CI-4 oils. But again cost vs. availability is another problem for me. Is it worth it for me to drive long distance (Boise, ID or Lewsiton, ID) to gain the CI-4 oils or would it just be better to go to McCall, ID and buy a quality name brand CJ-4 oil in Napa that is on sale? There is another difference you live close to the big city of Boise, Nampa and Caldwell with plenty of options. But I know you AMSOil user so that's not so in your case.

That's what I was thinking about a piece of ABS plastic 4" and another rubber boot and clamps. What's kind of funny about this whole filter thing. I know of a shop here locally that the owner is yanking these filters out of the Duramax diesel and installing K&N filters because he claims they are too restrictive of a filter. So he's be selling K&N filters quite heavy out here. I go the other way around and suggest the owner at least keep the OEM filter set up which is still better than K&N.

I know the check valve will solve a lot of problems for priming but that is just showing you sill have a problem. Some how air is being pulled into the fuel system and allowing the fuel to drain back. I would look at the suction side of the fuel system a bit closer. Typically they never leak outwards because its under a suction/vacuum while running and when the engine is off its still gain a vacuum and pulls air in. The air naturally rises in the fuel system and drains it back to the tank.

I'm want to at least try it once. But The price tag still has me hunt a bit more. The other thing I want to to figure out is how to mount the filter minder in as well. Since mind does work. More things to ponder.

There a quit a few people out here with old rusted out Ford, Chevy and even Dodge trucks for that exact purpose. Most older trucks fitted with plow blades or maybe set up with chains for driving out of there place to catch their good vehicle at the bottom.

Ok so my TDR doc is out of date but I've never found anything newer. Is TDR going to release a newer article? As for my distance. I don't just drive to town once. I might drive to McCall for parts, I might drive to White bird to work on fire trucks, then drive home for dinner, then drive back out for New Meadows, ID for hardware. You never know here but my average minimum distance is about 100 miles per driving day. As For oil I'm never going to profess to be absolute perfect but... CJ-4 oils can't be the work of the devil either. Way to many vehicle on the highway with dumb people going to Jiffy Lube and changing oil. Their vehicles didn't just fall apart. As for using CajFylnn yes he's one of my documented people I can use for distance. As for other there was a few others but slipped away before reaching 1 million. A few here that well past 500k miles without much effort again slipped way with little documentation. Now working in two shops now I can say that there is more people that just don't give a darn and use what ever is cheap. There is a few people in the years I've doing work that will provide a synthetic oil for there rig. (Very Very Rare!). But in all the oil changes I've done I've seen plenty of CJ-4 dumped in a crankcase and plenty dump out and never seen any diesel dying from it. I've got Ford diesel's with 300k and 400k miles and still kicking around me. Dodge Cummins trucks same way 300k to 500k miles easy. I will say yes that CJ-4 isn't like CI-4 oils but it's not the end of the world nor is the crank going to grind way to nothing.

That's even a old rusted out Ford Truck how fitting...

Congrads on the the New Family!

Easier to unbolt the intake horn and slide it on. As for trimming all mine fit perfect. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/3615-gotta-say-thank-you-vulcan-performance/

Sounds like quite the battle on the food end.

I guess I'll get the truck jacked back up and dig deeper at getting it fixed.

Speedometer is dead nuts with the GPS and never misses a beat. (Granted my speedometer is about 0.5 MPH off). Now I left the shims just the way they were. There was 2 shims on the driver side and no shim on the passenger side.

4000 foot of elevation you could see a easy 4 foot of snow typically. Like in New Meadows its 3,800 feet and the rule of thumb is a normal snow her should make the fence post disappear.

All I do is spray the inside of the silicone boot with the degreaser and slide it on. Hair spray can be a PITA if it dries to fast. As with the degreaser it will not leave a oil film like WD-40 and cause the boot to slip.

I did get a set from Eric at Vulcan... The secret to installing them easy is using Zep Orange degreaser and spray the silicone boots down with the degreaser and they will slide on much easier than with WD-40. Seriously! Then when the dry out they stick like glue and are a real PITA to remove. Never have to worry about blowing a boot off.

Could of been just the plunger contact arced welded to the other contacts. I would start looking at the solenoid parts for damage or debris that might hang it up.

I'm pretty sure its a stand alone unit for ABS computer just need to be plugged into the CCD network. Which leads me to the fact you most likely don't have the plugins for it. Yes that is correct the speed data is sent back over the CCD network for the instrument cluster and the PCM for transmission and cruise control functions.

Depends on the elevation of the property. Like here at 2,800 feet I do all my own plow work with a ATV. I know up at White Water Wilderness Ranch they have to use a heavy machines to plow the roads in the winter. This is because of drifting snow. The only thing I can say is it different snow condition up and down this canyon. The last few years have been so mild that you really didn't need a 4WD nor plow. Hence our fire season this year. But as my photo shows the road dept. is stocking up with large amounts of salt. New Meadows shed is full of salt. The picture above is Weiser, ID road dept.

The old ones worked fine as long as I kept soldering the wires back together. Possibly a bad sensor in the pile then? No speed sensor on the transmission. Just the rear diff and the 2 front axles sensors.

I starting to notice all the road department yards loading up with large piles of salt. I better get ready for another year of fighting back the rust.

I've made the mistake blindly reaching for a tube and grabbed the inside hole and it slide out scratching the cone seat. Dumb move... Yeah this is what I'm warning about.

Don't scratch the cone of the cross over tube or it will leak on heavy throttle. If funny how a 10k or more pressure will weep out of a scratch like that.

Ok. Everyone knows I just replaced my front two ABS sensors. Here is what happening now. Start up roll out slow speeds less than 40 MPH the ABS and BRAKE lights remains off. Once I exceed 40 MPH they pop back on. I can pull over shut off the truck start up again and start rolling out and the light reset again. Once over 40 MPH it trips again. My old sensors works fine but had been broken in the leads. I solder and shrink tube then a few times and always was able to get the light back out. As for the rear speed sensor it dead on with my Garmin GPS so I really doubt I got a bad rear sensor.

Absolutely... The crossover tube must be seated and lightly torqued before the injector hold down cap is even tighten.