Mopar1973Man

Here in Idaho there is no difference between red dye and on-road diesel fuel. The difference is the TAX. So taking the risk using red dye and tax evasion and the fines that come with illegally using red dye fuel are up to you. Personally I won't use red dye like what I see here locally stored in rancher drag tanks. Typically quite dirty and end up doing more harm to the fuel system. One of the local ranchers I changed his filter and the bottom of the stock filter can was nearly 1/2 inch deep in dirt in the bottom. Another member I know of had access to the red dye tanks on a construction site and ended up ruining a VP44 from all the dirty fuel he was getting. So your source of fuel is very important and it should be filtered from the dispensing pump. Lot of the drag tanks that I've seen are not filtered.

Back up to 55*F high temps... Snow is gone...

Some info I didn't add... Didn't figure it was important till find more odd stuff. I was going to attempt to remove number 3 injector. I everything dealt with right down to exhaust rocker removed and loosen the 8mm bolts. But the injector lines wasn't wanting to come loose. I could move it a little but didn't want to damage the injection line which was turning with the compression nut. So I just reassembled it gave up for the day. It started and roll outside and died. Figured just air bubble. The owner and I just pushed it back and gave up. Tired and didn't really give a darn at that point. This morning I wanted to move the truck. Didn't want to start. Purged the low pressure system. Cycled the key a few times. Presto it started. I figure I let it run a bit. Talking to my neighbor that pulled up. It only ran for a minute of so and started loping. Then died. I'm assuming now that #3 injector might have or be the issue since I disturbed the #3 injector now its not running long.

Ok. Direct fuel rate for our trucks. As for the volumetric that is your offset to adjust the MPG number to get calibrated. As you change up or down it will change the MPG number for offset.

Cardian Joint shouldn't move either.

Ok. What I've done was borrowed a known good FPRV and installed it. The original lift pump would only produce 5 PSI with just the key on. The new pump would produce 12 PSI on key on. So we kept the new pump. Start cold and had good rail pressure 6,000-7,000 PSI idling. Now unplug the FCA the pressure jumps up to 17,000 PSI little more rev and easy 20,000 could be reached. So we left the truck to idle and warm up. As it warmed up the rail pressure faded out rapidly as the coolant temperature rose to 160*F by the time it hit 180*F is was back down to 2,000 PSI and starting to lope again. So we ended the day by pulling the new FCA, left the new lift pump in, and removed the borrowed the FPRV. I'm going to assume at this point there is a cracked injector body. It the only thing that makes any sense at this point. There is no oil growing and no outward leakage of fuel. So the loss of rail is going into the return to the tank. What's your thoughts John?

The only issue with smaller pumps like 95 GPH and 100 GPH you typically see a wider range of pressure change 3-7 PSI. Now a larger pump say 150 GPH which is very stable 1-2 PSI change from idle to WOT. Volume rate of the pump equates to pressure stability.

Here is the link for signature for you... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ Not really. Some software don't have a lift pump signal at key on and other like mine only have 1 second burst. That's why you watch the fuel pressure gauge after starting. If the pressure is between 14-20 PSI then you fine. At key on doesn't count. Also any time your testing for the WTS / Lift pump you must leave the key OFF for at least 5-10 seconds for the ECM to shut down. If you cycle the key too rapidly then the previous booted software is still use because it never completed so you might not see a lift pump burst or a wait to start light.

Agreed!

Hmmm... What choices do you have for fuel rate? VIN is available on later years of trucks. Our is buried in a special hidden area.

Its both... Going down the road WOT it maxed out about 40 MPH. Power dropping out. Come back home sitting in the driveway it quits firing in burst. Surge and lopey idle which you can see rolling up and down in rail pressure. I'm starting to think the rail pressure regulator is purging pressure off. I don't have a test plug yet. Can't remember that was a week ago. All I remember was it was the FCA. I check codes and basic stats before touching anything on the engine. First day I see the truck it had the code and rail pressure was low (4,000 to 6,000 PSI) barely do 60 MPH then. After laying in bed think about it last night and the fact if you disconnect the FCA there is no change in rail pressure tells me the FCA has been wide open all the time and the rail is purging out through the regulator. So if the flow rate is high then the lift pump most likely can't keep up. So I'm going to try and create a test plug or something for the regulator temporarily to see if the rail pressure pops up.

Lift pump voltage is correct. it should be a modulated 50% duty cycle during cranking and 12V when running. If the wait to start light is not coming on the ECM is not booting up. Basically brain dead. The first instruction typically is throw the WAIT TO START light and then check IAT temp and grid heaters. If no wait to start light then there is internal memory issues in the ECM and never complete its boot up process. As for what might be messing up the ECM is the alternator. If the alternator is creating excessive AC noise it will kill the ECM. Here is the engine wiring... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring

On the front of the damper there is 2 tick marks and you need to check and see if the two tick marks are still lined up. Auto. Hmm... As for the shifting that I'll leave to "Dynamic" he's the site tranny guru. Might as him about the shift issue and the flex plate.

Yeah its true... One big family of Cummins owners.

Stock everything. No tune. Stock fuel system. Fresh filter. When it drops below 3,000 PSI it becomes lopey and you can see the rail pressure bouncing. As it quits firing and the rail builds it pops again with a surge and rail drops again. Cold it just fine runs good. But the fuel pressure is also good too.

Flex plate issues maybe? Damper on the crank good not slipped?

Thanks John... I'll being think about doing this very soon!

600-700*F in 6 Cylinder mode with Exhaust brake. 800-900*F in 3 Cylinder mode with Exhaust brake. So... yeah it really does bump the numbers way up!

Drove only 3 miles and power drops off to about to 40 MPH WOT. Rail drops to 3,000 PSI roughly at WOT. Like today we installed a brand new fuel pump (Stock In Tank - NAPA) tested the pressure at the CP3 inlet port seeing 11-13 idle to holding 2,000 RPM free rev. Left the shop. Good rail pressure getting 11,000 to 13,000 PSI driving nicely to allow the truck to warm up. Drove up canyon made it 3 miles and the rail drop out to nearly 2,800-3,000 PSI at WOT. Come back test the lift pump and can pull it down to 3-5 just free revving at 2,000 RPM. I'm really sure the lift pump is dropping to ZERO on a load. I check the fuse, relay, and made sure 12V was getting to the pump. Just not keeping fuel pressure. So I've got another pump coming on warranty tomorrow in McCall. This time I'm going to leave my test gauge on the fuel system when test drive this next go around. Once the fuel pressure drops out its barely 3-5 at idle and rail is at 1,900 PSI and loping/surging at idle. Stalls really easy. Previous initial problem was a error code for the FCA. So I did replace it and no change in performance same issue no error codes. That what lead me to the lift pump. Now we are trying to just keep fuel pressure up so it will keep going. I'm using a Vulcan Performance test gauge 0-30 PSI. Brand New.... As for changing these pump its for the birds...

Things are getting a bit touchy as time goes on and moved to Politics forum.

Curious AH64ID... I know Cowboy made that article on using BB's and air soft BB's is that a option in your book too? I was considering getting a few boxes of BB's and measuring out what Cowboy figured and just installing then to the tires by breaking one bead.

What needs to be done. All the stock supply plumbing need to be removed. Then a Draw Straw in the tank. Install all 1/2" plumbing with Push-Loc JICs fittings. Then you'll have stable fuel pressure. None of the old stock system should be used or left on the truck really.

Time for silicone boots and fresh clamps.

Stock APPS is based on voltage. So looking at the back off the sensor have a voltage tag. BELOW should ground the idle pin. ABOVE will ground the THROTTLING pin. Timbo's APPS its based on bellcrank angle and not on voltage.

That old lift pump and plumbing need to go away if you got a FASS pump on there now.