Mopar1973Man

I do have OFE but I've never heard of the half n' half clutch before.

Double check your trans relay. Double check the blue wire at the alternator for good power. (Feeds the trans).

Like on my 1996 Dodge Ram (Auto) is a vacuum motored cruise. Which is required to have vacuum motor other than that the transmission wouldn't know when to kick down with throttled deeply pulling a grade. Where with a manual you really can't change gears with cruise set so there is no reason for vacuum motor cruise. There is no throttle plate to open or close on a diesel engine. Just need to feed a throttle signal to the ECM. So it fly by wire.

I really don't care to bother with oil sample and testing. By the time I reach 500k miles the truck will be 26 years old and ready to be replaced. I just going to make my journey back from the moon now and be happy. Again there is a lot of over the road truck out there making hundreds of thousands of miles in there life. I'm sure I can do the same without all the oil testing and special lubricants. The other thing is regardless all lubricant have to meet the minimum requirement of the CJ-4 API grade. So at that point all oil are equal till each manufacture adds their special blends of additives to the oils to make it their own brand. The weights are all the same if your running 15W-40 all then have to flow the same at the different temperatures. So it just comes down to the additive packages or the bonus of each brand.

There is a member here goes by the name "Dynamic". He's a transmission rebuilder. He has a lot of good knowledge. While your at it con him into becoming a vendor here too.

He has a point... The PCM does use the speed signal for shift points.

Weather or state has nothing to do with the life span of a battery. Everyone for gets I get the same weather here as Arizona with temperatures as high as 110-115*F this year unofficially Riggins, ID topped out at 117*F. Then in the dead of winter I can pull down to -20*F to -25*F in New Meadows, ID. Still get ten years from a battery. It about proper charging and maintenance.

Too bad it can't be recalibrated properly. (Overhead Idiot)

Auto's yes... Manual Trans maybe. Early was vacuum later was fly by wire. Like my truck is fly by wire and no vacuum.

Return line to the tank. Remove that fitting and the spring and ball are right behind the fitting.

Chevron Delo, Valvoline, Mobil Delvac 15w-40 CJ-4 and have been since 2006-2007 when it was released.

FASS should have a 17 PSI spring... (I think). As for my AirDog here is my solution. Just shim the spring using generic washers. Make sure the ID and OD are of proper size for the FASS body.

You need to get up in the lockup gears of 3rd or 4th and it should lock up. Then with the switch ON it should stall if you come to a stop. So fine a piece of highway and get up to 45-55 MPH. Then you should be able to toggle the switch and see the tach jump up in the OFF position and when you flip ON it should lock and drop RPM's. Then once its locked if you come to a stop it should stall.

The half and half is news to me. I remember reading several post about ceramics being rather rough and tough for towing application. But half and half should be interesting to see the results of.

Now that I seen the part number... Here is what it looks like (61504)

Most of my driving is long haul too. Minimum distance for me is at least 100 miles. Then some days I could be as high as 300-400 miles. Nothing like city folks where they drive 3-5 miles and shut down.

Yeah... He did tow some huge stuff...

$300 is a bit pricey.. Here is where I get mine at... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm Is there going to be a filter only option? Being I would be tossing out the box for the winter time to get warm for the engine when the temps fall well below ZERO.

2006-2007 was the break point for CI-4 to CJ-4 oils. The post for Cajflynn is dated on 2011. So he was using mostly CJ-4 oils on the tall end. The truck rolled 1.3 million miles when the truck's life ended in a traffic accident. From what I know he sold the truck and the new owner is still running that engine. Now I know AH64ID says that long haul use is easier on a engine than daily driver. How much truth there is in that I don't know.

Here is some manufactures of code readers. Standard Plugin Tools http://www.innova.com/ http://www.scangauge.com/ Bosch OBD 1300 | Automotive Pocket Scanner | Code Reader Bluetooth / WiFi Dongles http://www.obdlink.com/ Hoping to add to this list of different devices.

Kind of like the Black Lions HT's I'm running. But I'll run them year round. http://www.blackliontires.com/tires/BC86.html So far really good wear characteristics. Same reasons I went to those as you did to the truck tires. How about the air dam have you seen any improvement wise in the MPG number?

Old CajFlynn did oil changes every 20k miles, Chevron Delo 15w-40, Fleetguard filters, no synthetics, no additves, and cleared over 1 million miles. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/2526-1000000-miles-yet/page-4 TDR57_Oil.pdf

Get a hold of a member here name "Dynamic" he's a transmission expert.

I'm not sure if the compressor oil is compatible with R12. There is a few article I've read about oils being an issues.

Ceramic clutches typically are not a smooth engaging clutch.