Mopar1973Man

The only thing I changed was my clutch no my NV4500. Nothing else was changed on the truck.

The only thing I want to note here is pressure stability is the difference between demand volume and supply volume. So if you demand volume is lower than supply volume then pressure will be stable. Now if you demand volume is higher than supply volume then pressure will fall accordingly. Which is correct. So pressure falling out during WOT is a sign your demand volume is exceeding the supply volume. This is basic pump class knowledge from Fire Fighting College Course. Same principals apply.

Edge EZ is a 65HP box. Not really adjustable 60, 63 or 65 HP. It a fuel and timing box without defuel modes. Edge Comp is a 40-120 HP box with defuel modes to lighten the launching. So you could run 1x3 which is 40 HP max extra fuel and defuels 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI and then released. This is a feature the EZ doesn't have at all. If you leave the Edge Comp untapped its defaults to 40 HP level. So edge Comp is still safer for the transmission than the Edge EZ. MAIN 40 HP 60 HP 80 HP 100 HP 120 HP SUBLEVEL 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 67% of sotck fuel till 10 PSI of boost Some extra fuel at low boost Full fuel at 0 PSI of boost

Like my set up I try to keep my pressures down. I don't like the 20 PSI and above crowd (personally). Like idling I'm 17 PSI and WOT its 15 PSI. Cruising it dances around the 16 PSI mark. But I'm running the AirDog filter (Donaldson) and stock filter (Fleetguard). So I really doubt I'm outside the rating of the filters since stock normal pressure was 12-14 PSI and I'm at 15-16 PSI under load.

Some day you'll have to find out won't you? Actually I could out run that 05 no problem. Now the 07 I did the gutting out and programmer on. That I will admit I can't even begin to catch. Way too quick.

I could give you account on the article database and you can make it yourself. I need you yo PM me a password you want to use and I'll create the account for you.

Like on my 96 Dodge I managed to some how bend a yoke ear on the front drive shaft and just being a little out of center makes a huge amount of vibration.

I bet you didn't shoot any pictures of you doing this so you could make a article... (Hint, Hint, Hint!)

I've fixed one with a fender washer from a hardware store nothing more. I just bought a fender washer that was proper ID hole size and ground the washer down to a tear drop shape. Pulled the bolt out installed the washer and torqued the bolt down. Reassembled the gear case.

I'm not found of the Edge EZ for the reason the module is under the hood and its known to leak water into the module and rot the circuit board out creating all kinds of weird issues. At least with a Edge comp the module is in the cab. The Edge juice which is even more expensive has much better designed module case and doesn't leak. It's also mounted under the hood.

Silencer ring is missing. That is normal. I reinstalled my silencer ring to tone that down gets rather old after awhile towing heavy through the mountains. Silencer ring is missing. That is normal. I reinstalled my silencer ring to tone that down gets rather old after awhile towing heavy through the mountains.

My thoughts... If its under load and making noise. Boost leaks, torn/cut boot(s), manifold gasket leaking Drive pressure leaks, crcked exhaust manifold, blown exhaust gasket(s). Turbo bearing issues, compressor wheel making contact with housing

Like myself... I did my first brake job at 180k miles. My front ball joints and track bar were replaced at 185k miles. I'm still running OE tie rod ends and steering box. The front end wear is typically enhanced with leveling kits, lift kits and oversized tires. Then you'll see more and more wear issues in the front axle and steering.

If your jumping off the throttle and getting a whooshing noise that's called a "Turbo Bark". That when you got the turbo spun up tight and loaded with high boost then jump off the fuel and driven pressure fails. Now the compressed air is attempting to spin the compressor wheel backwards venting the pressure it just built. This can do damage to the turbo. So just ease out of the throttle just a bit before dropping it out right.

Mine got a big shouldered piece of case metal over the pin. 2001 was basically the end of KDP problem with mixed bag of having the pin or not. There is only one report of 2002 that I've seen with a KDP failure. I seen the dealer invoice for it too. Mine got a big shouldered piece of case metal over the pin. 2001 was basically the end of KDP problem with mixed bag of having the pin or not. There is only one report of 2002 that I've seen with a KDP failure. I seen the dealer invoice for it too.

HX35W turbo should hit a max of 35 PSI safely. Then a HY35W turbo should hit max of 32 PSI safely. Explain what its doing... Edge Comp will get about 30-32 PSI tops.

I'm just use to the power my 02 makes. Feels a bit slow comparing. Truly not a shabby engine at all just needs a Smarty for some pick me up power. Oh the owner was super pleased his comment is its got way more power than it did the day he bought it. (It should now the rail pressure is holding up!)

Problem solved. Well kind of... #3 injector line and crossover tube is rusted together and the crossover tube nut is loose. I managed to tighten the cross over tube nut and problem is gone. So to resolve this permanently would require cutting the high pressure tube near the nut and removing the entire unit. Then replacing the crossover tube, nuts and high pressure line for #3. I would like to suggest to the owner that all the injectors still get tested and at that time we can deal with all the rusted lines and tubes (if any more exist). I got to admit it runs very well for stock 05 Dodge.

Every thing I do is at least 100 mile day of driving. So getting to operating temperature isn't hard. Even my short days just going to Riggins, ID and back is 30-35 miles. Still get to operating temperature.

There is a lot of here say of red dye being low sulphur fuel or better lubricity. Sorry to say all diesel fuel from 2007 on is ULSD (Ultra Low Sulphur Diesel) 15ppm. This includes even red dye offroad diesel. There is even today people make claim of LSD (Low Sulphur Diesel) still being sold at the pumps because the sticker is still there stating such. Since a nation wide change over to ULSD I seriously doubt there is any LSD left to be sold legally.

Like myself. I live up here in Idaho and can get temps as low as -25*F. Sub zero. I attempt to plug in if possible. If not possible I start allow the high idle software to do its job for a short bit allowing the engine oil to warm just a weebit. High idle either 6 or 3 cylinder typically can heat coolant at least 1-2*F a second. Once coolant reaches 80-100*F I move on. Oil temperature will be really close to coolant temperature. ZERO to 32*F I'll fire up and allow a little idle time not much more than 1-5 minutes tops. Just long enough to gather things I need for the day. Above 32*F I fire up and just leave. In all cases I'll drive easy and light footed till the coolant temp crosses the bottom end of the normal span, which is about 165*F and then on to normal speed and driving style.

As for what CSM posted is more of a engine coolant than a RV water system antifreeze. Typically I just use compressed air and blow all the lines out dry. This year being a bit of hurry to beat a freezing night I quickly blew the lines out and loaded with RV antifreeze. Problem with RV antifreeze if there is still water in the lines it will still freeze solid might not expand or as much as water alone would. Typically I spend a better part of a day cleaning out, blowing out and shutting down the RV for the winter. Personally even RV antifreeze I'm not fond of because of the smell and possible after taste you might get.

70*F in Riggins back down to 48*F and cooling rapidly tonight. Suppose to start raining and snowing very soon.

Popping fuses tells me there is issues with motor drag. The motor is drawing more and more power to keep pumping.

Last I heard for Idaho it's $1,000 per gallon of red dye in the tank.