Mopar1973Man

Actually just bit bigger... Still not enough.

There is no positive or negative to AC voltage being its a sine wave going positive to negative. Here a video of what it looks like.

Go to a Dodge Dealer and order a fuel sender. Cheap fix for $70 or so bucks.

It shows to have millivolt ranges so it should work just fine but the high to low volt reading is rather odd.

All based on how much you can lose in freight... Shipping back and forth can get expensive for the company and/or customer.

Two methods... Dealer and provide the article here. -> http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/64-mopar1973man-com-high-idle-kit/440-tsb-18-019-01-cold-idle-engine-warming Barrow a Smarty Tuner - Just run one tune the return to stock.

That's a valid number what is bold and underlined... The 28-30 is a poor quality meter.

Yes. The software has to be enabled on the ECM other than that it does nothing.

Fuel sender also going bad too. Right at the fuel light I've got 10 gallons. At "Empty" mark I've got about 4-5 gallons.

I've even seen that numerous times after the draw straw install. Just in how you install the tube.

Also set up this way to push the gun control laws. Government is looking for way of starting this...

I'm usually very watchful as well to part even standard part store stuff. Being I do turn wrenches for a living and seen several things that would make you go nuts or do damage. Like my all time favorite is a Ford 6 cylinder engine water pump. There was 2 series made the both look identical but one bolt hole shoulder is shorter. Needless to say a one gent I help do work for got the wrong water pump with a short shoulder and ended up pushing a hole into #1 cylinder with a bolt that was too long. So I tend to compare parts from the old to the new even in after market stuff to be sure no damage will occur.

I'm also a draw straw user too. I can run down to below 1/8 of a tank without much issues. It about doing the measurements while the tank is empty and making them tight to the bottom. Like myself I measured for a quarter coin thickness. Reason why is when you add fuel to the tank the bottom will deflect away so it will add gap naturally and also draw near the tip as it empties. No angle cut. Also I just lightly notched tip with a grinder. Draw Straws are fine as long as you install them properly.

Time for alternator noise test. Red probe on the alternator BATT post and the black probe on the negative battery terminal. Set to 2V AC. The meter must have a low AC voltage scale if not it will report like 32V AC or similar. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues 0.01 to 0.02 AC volts Normal 0.05 is marginal 0.10 is Failed.

The only thing I got in that wiring is light green and yellow that is a power lead +12V with a 15A fuse. The rest of the wires are grounds back to the PCM to trigger each light. 1 2 Tan/Orange - Ground for Water in the Fuel 3 Green / Yellow - +12V 15A 4 Orange Black - Ground for Wait To Start 5 6 7 8 Pink/Black - Ground for Trans Temp I omitted the ones used for gasoline series trucks.

Take notice the harness is NOT attached to the circuit board. That one of the upgrade from previous version. Also the fact the new high idle is going to be mounted on a circuit board this time and not direct soldered.

Wow! Talk about dated black and white photos. I'll dig back and see what I can do.

My comments about that have to remain [CENSORED]...

Enuf said...

Not really unless he want to upgrade more to Compound Turbos. Need more boost pressure down lower RPM's to get the fuel lit off.

Yeah I do but it would replace the 96 Gasser... Gas is boring...

As a tech from Quadzilla told me years ago the VP44 can reach full advancement in timing in stock form. So what the timing box/programmers do is change hen it reaches full advancement. P7100 is the only pump without dynamic timing at all. It a fixed timed pump and will will never change over the span of RPM. VE has old school hydraulic timing based on fuel pressure and KSB valve tied to the IAT sensor.

As for you project. I would drop the transmission so I could inspect the clutch and related parts. Then you can get a get view of what your doing for the seal replacement on the crank. No matter what you need to pull the flywheel to access the rear main seal. While the transmission is out you'll have better access to replacing the pan gasket.

I also vote for stock HX35 turbo put back on the truck. I'm running +50HP and Edge Comp (5x3) and barely even smoke with this setup so if you had a smaller quick spooling turbo you would lose this smoke issue.

Absolutely... But take notice to the direction of the gasket if it is blown. Is it pulled into the manifold or pushed out. If its pushed out toward the cam valley, make sure to clean your crankcase vent filter. It most likely plugged up crankcase filter and caused said issue. Yes I own a 96 Dodge Ram... Filter is on the driver side valve cover.