Mopar1973Man

As for my buckets of gear oil, ATF, etc. I peel the lids off put on the bucket pump and keep them stored in the shop. Then for fuel barrels I would remove the pump and recap the barrel.

Ok. This morning I decided to do more testing again. Unplugged the alternator and did some more test driving again. I will say the ABS is not tripping the lights but still behaving rather odd. I think the ABS unit has taken damage from the alternator. While the alternator was unplugged (field lead). I did notice one thing that was strange is once the voltage of the system fell to 12.00 VDC the volt gauge drops all the way to 8 Volts and trips the check gauge light. That's rather crappy designed gauge to do that. So while it was running I was measuring the AC output at the BATT post and the voltage was nearly ZERO bumping 0.01 barely. Plug in the field lead and the AC jumps hard spike of course of the initial hook up. But starts high at 0.07 and works it way back down to 0.05 with on loads. Alternator is junk in my eyes. Now the question remains if the ABS computer is damaged... Time to hunt for ABS test tool I can barrow or get some to verify this unit.

Yeah... But I didn't have any at the time. I'm out of the good stuff all I got is the old standard crimp on stuff.

I've worked with two local shops. Both I could do the jobs but when you dealing with everything from domestic to import, then gasoline ricer to diesel truck it can drive a person nuts. Myself I enjoy being a specialist in Dodge Cummins trucks. So I've move back home and continue to work from home. I love it!

No stabilizer used. Drum are air tight and the fuel will not change unless its venting to the outside world then the fuel will alter. Stored fuels like this for YEARS no issues. The key is AIR TIGHT containers and non-venting.

Exactly. That's the problem I've got with my two barrels of fuel they are stored outside and cover with a tarp. Eventually the moisture with take its toll.

As long as the bungs are screwed in tight then there is no issues.

Won't happen. Remember the ABS is the starting line for the speedometer signal so if there is no ABS computer then there is no speedometer. I highly suggest you test the alternator for excessive noise issues.

My problem with steel cans in the rust issues. Fuel out here tend to get water it from time to time and steel cans will rust out. That's what happen to my last two 55 gallon drums was the gasoline barrel rotten from the inside out. The diesel one was more rusted on the outside. So I just replaced them both pretty cheap. I only use the plastic cans for transporting the fuel from the station to the barrel or from the barrel to the vehicle (trucks, ATV, lawn mower etc.)

Goes back on this problem. Since the ABS braking system works on the very same speed sensors as needed for the speedometer it very possible for the alternator noise to screw up the performance.

Wire tap or stealth plate?

I can get the valve stems at my local Chevron Station for cheap.

Let me say yesterday I got a good scare. Travelled up to McCall, ID to do my usual shopping. I normally take the back road around McCall to the store. When I started to approach the light I was easing into the brakes and all of a sudden the ABS is back pumping me not allowing to even stop. I was saying my prayers before I rear ended the car ahead of me. Then at the last 5 MPH of coasting the ABS tripped the light and brakes hit NOW. Missed the car ahead of me by inches. Now let me say I've replace all 3 speed sensors and been seeing the random light now and then. I've even tried with no shims in the front and now back to 1 and 1 in the front and the lights stay out for the most part. Now if you just lay on the brake hard like a panic stop now I get a wild jerk to the right. Quite spooky driving. Some times you can stab the brake and get the rear axle to lock one side or the other and not trip the ABS light. Really strange behavior... So I better go check my AC noise. Guess what the alternator is at .07 AC volts. The alternator is done. So my weird random issues was a alternator problem. Now lets hope It's not fried the ABS computer. I guess Friday I'll be getting another alternator.

After doing the conversion work on Randy's Tractor Farm and Family I started looking around to see what was there. I got to say there is a killer way to fix gas can to work. Check this out! http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com/topic/2888-how-to-fix-a-new-gas-can/

Not exactly. Like here in Idaho there is little to no biodiesel sold. No like Oregon is mandated for 5% Bio, Minnesota again is another state mandated for bio diesel usage. So depends on the state your in if you'll have bio-diesel or not. As for the loss... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent Petroleum diesel will always have more BTU's vs Biodiesel. Just like Clear Gasoline will always have more BTU's than ethanol. As for cetane.. (Quoted from ASTM testing Labs) The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability."

Hopefully its not a dry bird...

Between the shop, guest house and the main house we pay just around $100. Been running compact florescent bulbs and other low demand lighting. Like we just order a new LED floor lamp for the desk. Really nice. It can be done it just takes time to adapt your life to low power usage.

Nowt bad...

As for the sector shaft seal just order a gear box seal kit at your local NAPA store. I've rebuilt plenty of steering boxes and not really all that hard to do a seal kit. When it comes to the 20 some odd BB's around the worm gear I've got a way of handling that too.

Key factor here is was the lacquer a UV or not?

I'll be here like always. I'll see about tipping back few beers and enjoy a quiet day here in the country. I got what's important to me which is family and friends. Happy Thanksgiving y'all.

Check this out... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM

Another factor on wood burning or pellet burning. Now like AH64ID is down in the city area of Boise area. (Not exactly but general area). So now for him to travel out and get firewood is much more demanding to travel up to the forest and spend a day cutting firewood and trucking it home. I can see the bonus for him just either have pellets delivered to his house or just chucking a few bags in the back of the truck. Now like myself my firewood is all around me. In my front yard in my back yard. I could drive less than 10 miles be hacking up a tree in no time. I figured out my cost of gather wood and I can having my heating wood for around $200 year if I do it myself. This year I was buying logs from a local yard being I just don't have the man power as I once. So this increase the cost more so but requires less man power to deal with. They always say that firewood warms you more than once. But hey now this is my exercise routine of bucking, splitting and stacking firewood. So I will admit that pellet stove is way less messy, easier to get wood for, user friendly, etc. But that all comes at a cost. Wood burning stoves are messier, more work, but come with a bonus of no electricity required, no moving parts to wear out, and works without a generator. This is kind of like the whole Dodge, Ford or Chevy battle. All I can say burn it if you got it. At least you'll stay warm and comfortable!

LOL. You'd never survive at my place then with 8 small 50w panels (400w) and 200w of hydro power in the summer.

My darn tablet will correct spelling or typing errors sometimes replaces words with the wrong one. (Pellet / Pullet)