Mopar1973Man

P1693 code means there is other codes present. Might need a better code reader. Ronman got the alternator test right on the money. Make sure your volt meter is capable of small voltage on the AC side like 2V or 200mV.

Error Codes? You might want to grab a live data tool and see what is really happening. Sorry to hear about the storm over there. I just happen to glance over at MoparMom's computer and seen a photo of flood streets and she made the comment of the hurricane. Be safe out there and keep your head about you I know what its like to be emergency type scenes and things get stupid really quick.

Another thing to check is the negative cable on the passenger side. There is a heavy cable/wire going from there to the firewall this is the ECM, PCM and VP44 ground cable. Make sure the connection and the plug is good too. Another way to check cable is doing the voltage drop test. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/136-voltage-drop-testing-of-wiring-and-feed-cables

Most likely not. If there is no P0121, P0122 or P0123 codes then the APPS sensor isn't really a cause. You can test to see if there is smooth voltage from idle ot WOT but I doubt you'll find anything. I would be looking at AC noise issues from the alternator which can be a cause of VP44 damage. The p0216 code is because of either low fuel pressure which you show 16-19 PSI so it's not a fuel pressure. It is possible that its a fuel lubricity issues the galled the timing piston and seized it. So more than likely the VP44 will be replaced in the future.

Pretty simple just keep your cables clean and in good order. Remember I might own a 2002 Dodge diesel manual but the 1996 is automatic no issues with hunting at all. No extra grounds added to that truck no wiring mods either. It 19 years old and still working fine. Still has the factory 46RE transmission too.

PCM, ECM and VP44 grounds are all on the passenger side battery cable. Take a peek you'll see on cable running toward the PCM and cowling. There is no body ground on these units. The only reason for the cheap strap to the PCM is because it mounted into plastic clips the most likely reduce the shielding effect of the case. Typically if the APPS sensor drop out of range for anytime it "should" throw a P0122 code for low volts because it did drop too low. In your case with the p-pump set up I'm not certain what the other system errors will do to impact the reporting. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low Monitor & Set Conditions Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Possible Causes 5-volt Supply At APPS Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground 5-volt Supply To Ground APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Ground APPS Signal Circuit Open To ECM PCM (APPS) Short To ECM Sensor Ground ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Shorted ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Open Short To ECM Sensor Ground Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) Engine Control Module Powertrain Control Module

Mine is much lower in the RPM spectrum. This is based from the amount of timing again. So like from what I've learned from all my conversations on the phone. Like Smarty economy mode with heavy timing actually doesn't work good at all and reduces timing. From another member he informed me that level 7 is the best. So this tells me that aggressive timing does have it place but most likely at highway speeds where crank speed (RPM's) are high enough to warrant more advancement to keep fuel burn timing in the power band. Now it respect to that like city stop go traffic where RPM rarely get high it would not be optimal because the timing is already outside the power band at lower RPM's. This is where my MPG fooler came to existence. Being most all programmers add timing to counteract the emission stock tune of the ECM. Like myself I live hours away from any interstate or speeds above 65 MPH. Local speed limits are 45-65 MPH city speed limits are 25 MPH and residential are mere 15 MPH. Idaho is much slower life style up here. So designing around that I used a potentiometer or rheostat to very the IAT temps up and down to see where I wanted the timing to be. the colder the IAT became the more timing was added. The more warmer the less timing was added. I basically ran at different IAT temps for months at a time looking at what gave the bast gain. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/459-speed-mpg

Daily driver eh? I'm running Edge Comp and +50HP injectors. Stock 3" exhaust, BHAF, stock intake. Do very well at mid 20's MPG empty running. Then 11-14 MPG hauling the RV. As for power it possible to get the tires to break loose in 4th gear. Plenty of power. At least with a Edge or Quadzilla you'll have better fuel management that stacking chips or most any programmer. Now if your 3rd Gen I would suggest Smarty over Edge or Quadzilla. Smarty in the CR engine is much better programmer and fuel management on CR engines.

Might not hurt anything but from a efficiency perspective excessive anything (fuel, timing, etc.) can push your efficiency out the window too. There is a balance to everything.

Pull the alternator fuse and the field wire and go for a test drive if it goes away the alternator failed. (Warranty time...)

Still rebuilding is the cheapest thing right now. I will admit JohnFak has play with plenty of turbos and combinations. Then again it all about how deep the owners pockets are.

Might be true but again that's a apple to orange comparing again. The whole thing is about the 2015 vehicle and there heavy emissions. I seriously doubt they are that bad.

I would take a rust free Cummins truck in a heart beat.

All joking aside with Bill's funny pics above.... We all know VW are not that bad emissions and smoke.

All high idle sales will be here on the site for here on out. We will be the producers, vendors and the support team rolled into one...

Little feedback on this subject. I've just got done ordering the printed circuit boards for the high idle kit. Me78569 is working on getting his soldering station purchased. We should be able hopefully get them to market before the end of the month.

Like in my case I don't have any kind of serious blow by. Just the light vapor that drifts from under the truck from the vent pipe.. Like a lot of trucks are starting to lose tappet cover gaskets and other rubber seals. It's possible the seals had enough heating and cooling cycles to make them brittle and start to leak? I'll have to admit I've done a few startup and run to the fire house without much warm up periods. Some times blow past the fire house and go directly to the scene. So in my case I know the engine has some abuse. As for CSM he'll have to speak for himself...

Good time to do all the maintenance, upgrading and inspection of the head and other parts.

Looks like a valve seal article is going to be produced...

Can of Carb Dip works just as good as the ultra-sonic cleaner maybe a bit cheaper for a can of Carb Dip. After dipping all your parts the just wipe clean.

Almost like a small set of locking forceps would work too but that small it might crush them. I like Bill's idea the aligator clip would be a good tool if small enough.

Seal kits are cheap. I've already look them up. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Valve-Stem-Oil-Seal-Set/_/R-FPBSS70937_0147481126 Now all you need is the valve tool. http://www.torkteknology.com/products/Cummins%C2%AE-24V-5.9-%26-6.7-Valve-Spring-Compressor--CVSC010.html Just remove all the rockers and injectors. Using a piece of tie wire as a measure of TDC run each cylinder up to TDC. Release your valve retainers and lift the springs off. Now you can change you valve seals. Valves will sit on top of the pistons. Make sure to lube the seals up before installing and also look for sharp spots on the valves stem that might slice the seal. I've done a set on a Datsun head and the very last seal got nicked by a sharp spot. Crap had to buy another seal kit for one stinken seal.

I've already posted Weiser Idaho salt pile. The only thing I can suggest is getting a small hone stone/brush and lightly hone out the ball joint holes to clean them up a bit. Also make sure to coat the holes with anti-seize so maybe next time its not so bad. As for rust even though Idaho pours the salt and stone down on the highways. I lucky so for to keeping the rust at bay.

OMG! Look at all that nature's thread locker! (Rust!)