Mopar1973Man

Well I now know what happened. It did blow two 40 Amp fuses now. Something went wrong in the truck side of the trailer socket and it melted together. I ended up finishing off my broken trailer socket and got it unplugged from the truck at least to unhitch the trailer. I'll most likely end up using a hacksaw and cutting the plug away from my trailer plug. Next step. Does any know if Dodge still sells those trailer plugs? Do I have to hack up my wiring? (Really don't wanna... )

Thanks but in the same token I don't want the double fall out of the start of selling the high idle kits and the update together. I'm going to attempt to get it rolling soon.

Thank you very much!!!

Could someone look up the fuse location for me. I need to know where the fuse is for the trailer running lights. I've still got taillights on the truck and all work fine. No running lights on the trailer. I've got turn and brakes on the trailer. I'm in the field and don't have my books with me.

Sorry gang... I hate delaying the site update but... I've got called out to look at a job last night. After meeting with the owner of the truck and doing some basic diagnostic I had to condemn a CR engine Cummins. For sure got piston damage in one hole. You can hear the loss of compression during cranking. Needless to say after talking awhile I found out he's got 4 trucks in his fleet and looking for a diesel mechanic. He's been hunting around the valley for diesel mechanics and my name was brought up more than once. So I ended up with the job. So I've now got a CR engine to pull out and replace. I've also got a 12V 1995 Dodge to go straighten out after a hotrod shop made a mess out of it in Boise, ID. Then there is 2 other he mention but we agreed that the 95 would be easy to straighten out. So last night I was suppose to pull down the site and do back ups but I was tired after coming in late last night. So like the notice says it will occur at a drop of the hat. When I get time again I'll shut down the forum and get the backups done and them get the upgrade process going. Since I've got a contract with the software provider and maintenance fees are paid up I might as well let them do the conversion to the new software.

We are working on rules changes as we speak. BoD are discussing this issue. Chances coming soon.

Then you have just Rear ABS most likely.

Some where rear ABS only. But if you got the ABs pump and module under the hood then you should have them. As for the posting pictures... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/478-adding-an-image-to-a-post-on-mopar1973man-com

Still not a good idea. Just because a lot of people steal things doesn't make it right to steal too. Same here just because a lot of people run excessive pressure doesn't make it right either. 21 PSI isn't really bad but 30 PSI is a sign of crappy fuel system and crappy pump.

Sensors missing? There is a plug on both shock towers. The black cable should go down to the unit bearings.

Just showing the cable that has to be disconnected. There is a plug near each shock tower.

Another way of testing for the problem. Unhook both BATT wire and field. Make sure to pull the Alternator fuse to make sure of no shorts occur. Now go for a test drive. I bet money the lock / unlock goes away.

The thing to remember is the return hole out of the VP44 is much smaller so increasing fuel pressure too much can cause the front seal to fail.

18 PSI idling 16 PSI WOT. Very stable pressures.

Actually just bit bigger... Still not enough.

There is no positive or negative to AC voltage being its a sine wave going positive to negative. Here a video of what it looks like.

Go to a Dodge Dealer and order a fuel sender. Cheap fix for $70 or so bucks.

It shows to have millivolt ranges so it should work just fine but the high to low volt reading is rather odd.

All based on how much you can lose in freight... Shipping back and forth can get expensive for the company and/or customer.

Two methods... Dealer and provide the article here. -> http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/64-mopar1973man-com-high-idle-kit/440-tsb-18-019-01-cold-idle-engine-warming Barrow a Smarty Tuner - Just run one tune the return to stock.

That's a valid number what is bold and underlined... The 28-30 is a poor quality meter.

Yes. The software has to be enabled on the ECM other than that it does nothing.

Fuel sender also going bad too. Right at the fuel light I've got 10 gallons. At "Empty" mark I've got about 4-5 gallons.