Mopar1973Man

I'm going to shoot from the hip. I just got done working on a 2005 Cummins that was able to start easy but the truck would only travel a short distance and then rail pressure would fall out. That is a loose cross over tube. Now a bad injectors(s) that are leaking excessively would most likely cause hard starting. So for testing I would remove all the injector line and torque the cross over nuts to spec. Then test drive and see if it goes away. If not I would bench test all 6 injectors see where your at. If any are failing I would replace them as a set of 6. Too many time I see people cutting corners and replacing only the bad ones and end up doing it over and over till all 6 are replaced.

I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to see about finding a local source first with a good alternator. Still got one ace up the sleeve yet. Let play that in the morning as see what falls out.

As for replacing the alternator I stopped in NAPA and had mine tested. According to the test machine it PASSED with .7 AC volts. The new alternator PASSED with 1.3 AC Volts. So no sale occurred. I figured I'll take mine home and rebuild myself. Now that I tore it down and found the issue is the alternator case is damaged and the rear bearing is flopping around in the case. So basically the whole armature is dancing in a orbit. The brushes are shot one brush is nearly wore to the point of no contact. So now on the hunt for a good alternator.

As for my buckets of gear oil, ATF, etc. I peel the lids off put on the bucket pump and keep them stored in the shop. Then for fuel barrels I would remove the pump and recap the barrel.

Ok. This morning I decided to do more testing again. Unplugged the alternator and did some more test driving again. I will say the ABS is not tripping the lights but still behaving rather odd. I think the ABS unit has taken damage from the alternator. While the alternator was unplugged (field lead). I did notice one thing that was strange is once the voltage of the system fell to 12.00 VDC the volt gauge drops all the way to 8 Volts and trips the check gauge light. That's rather crappy designed gauge to do that. So while it was running I was measuring the AC output at the BATT post and the voltage was nearly ZERO bumping 0.01 barely. Plug in the field lead and the AC jumps hard spike of course of the initial hook up. But starts high at 0.07 and works it way back down to 0.05 with on loads. Alternator is junk in my eyes. Now the question remains if the ABS computer is damaged... Time to hunt for ABS test tool I can barrow or get some to verify this unit.

Yeah... But I didn't have any at the time. I'm out of the good stuff all I got is the old standard crimp on stuff.

I've worked with two local shops. Both I could do the jobs but when you dealing with everything from domestic to import, then gasoline ricer to diesel truck it can drive a person nuts. Myself I enjoy being a specialist in Dodge Cummins trucks. So I've move back home and continue to work from home. I love it!

No stabilizer used. Drum are air tight and the fuel will not change unless its venting to the outside world then the fuel will alter. Stored fuels like this for YEARS no issues. The key is AIR TIGHT containers and non-venting.

Exactly. That's the problem I've got with my two barrels of fuel they are stored outside and cover with a tarp. Eventually the moisture with take its toll.

As long as the bungs are screwed in tight then there is no issues.

Won't happen. Remember the ABS is the starting line for the speedometer signal so if there is no ABS computer then there is no speedometer. I highly suggest you test the alternator for excessive noise issues.

My problem with steel cans in the rust issues. Fuel out here tend to get water it from time to time and steel cans will rust out. That's what happen to my last two 55 gallon drums was the gasoline barrel rotten from the inside out. The diesel one was more rusted on the outside. So I just replaced them both pretty cheap. I only use the plastic cans for transporting the fuel from the station to the barrel or from the barrel to the vehicle (trucks, ATV, lawn mower etc.)

Goes back on this problem. Since the ABS braking system works on the very same speed sensors as needed for the speedometer it very possible for the alternator noise to screw up the performance.

Wire tap or stealth plate?

I can get the valve stems at my local Chevron Station for cheap.

Let me say yesterday I got a good scare. Travelled up to McCall, ID to do my usual shopping. I normally take the back road around McCall to the store. When I started to approach the light I was easing into the brakes and all of a sudden the ABS is back pumping me not allowing to even stop. I was saying my prayers before I rear ended the car ahead of me. Then at the last 5 MPH of coasting the ABS tripped the light and brakes hit NOW. Missed the car ahead of me by inches. Now let me say I've replace all 3 speed sensors and been seeing the random light now and then. I've even tried with no shims in the front and now back to 1 and 1 in the front and the lights stay out for the most part. Now if you just lay on the brake hard like a panic stop now I get a wild jerk to the right. Quite spooky driving. Some times you can stab the brake and get the rear axle to lock one side or the other and not trip the ABS light. Really strange behavior... So I better go check my AC noise. Guess what the alternator is at .07 AC volts. The alternator is done. So my weird random issues was a alternator problem. Now lets hope It's not fried the ABS computer. I guess Friday I'll be getting another alternator.

After doing the conversion work on Randy's Tractor Farm and Family I started looking around to see what was there. I got to say there is a killer way to fix gas can to work. Check this out! http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com/topic/2888-how-to-fix-a-new-gas-can/

Not exactly. Like here in Idaho there is little to no biodiesel sold. No like Oregon is mandated for 5% Bio, Minnesota again is another state mandated for bio diesel usage. So depends on the state your in if you'll have bio-diesel or not. As for the loss... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent Petroleum diesel will always have more BTU's vs Biodiesel. Just like Clear Gasoline will always have more BTU's than ethanol. As for cetane.. (Quoted from ASTM testing Labs) The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability."

Hopefully its not a dry bird...

Between the shop, guest house and the main house we pay just around $100. Been running compact florescent bulbs and other low demand lighting. Like we just order a new LED floor lamp for the desk. Really nice. It can be done it just takes time to adapt your life to low power usage.

Nowt bad...

As for the sector shaft seal just order a gear box seal kit at your local NAPA store. I've rebuilt plenty of steering boxes and not really all that hard to do a seal kit. When it comes to the 20 some odd BB's around the worm gear I've got a way of handling that too.

Key factor here is was the lacquer a UV or not?

I'll be here like always. I'll see about tipping back few beers and enjoy a quiet day here in the country. I got what's important to me which is family and friends. Happy Thanksgiving y'all.

Check this out... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM