Mopar1973Man

The one thing I will share in regards to cold. If you park outside in the weather and plug in the block heater vs parked in a unheated shed and plugged in. I would say the enclosed shed would produce better results of keeping the cold wind form taking away the heat. Even if it one of those canopy car ports that's enclosed on both ends.

Out eating lunch in New Meadows. As for snow I hope it stays. New Meadows rule of thumb is fence posts should be buried so roughly 4 foot of snow.

I've got a AirDog 150 and kept my stock fuel filter. Best to keep the filter just install the boost gauge in that port.

YEAH!

Just aimed low angled. Yes I will admit your bulbs are much much brighter and wider range (left to right). Cost factor... Hmmm?

Works awesome in city use and never been pulled over. The lo beam are adjusted so they do not blind. Hi beams are like "Beam me up Scotty". Seriously though I've never had a single issue with people flashing there hi beams or been pulled over for either truck.

Solution I found that works very well. For long term storage of gasoline is a 55 gallon drum will air tight bungs. I've been storing gasoline for YEARS with no loss or issues. As long as the drum is air tight container and does not breathe the fuel will last very long time. Also store diesel in the same manner. I picked up the drums from a oil distribution house that had fresh engine oil and the drum were clean and rust free. Cost only $20 a drum. Like yesterday instead of driving to town for 10 gallons of gasoline. I just pulled 10 gallons from the drum. When I unscrewed the bung it have a good hard vacuum on it. I know my bungs are still good and the o-ring can be replaced if needed. No issues with the fuel even with long term storage. Like during the flood of 96-97 I have all the gasoline I could every want. 4 vehicles of our own at the time will 1/2 tank or better. Then the 4 other families had vehicles with fuel in them as well. Gasoline was plentiful and very easy to get. Potable generator where easy to unplug and relocate to another house for few hours. Propane has to be hard plumbed in. As for storage of your generator with gasoline is easy too. Most have a fuel valve just shut the valve run the carb dry. I typically try to exercise my gennies 1 a month (at least the main one). The other two are stored empty because the tanks are vented like AH64ID fuel will not keep. This applies to vented containers.

Sad to say propane fuel generators are expensive and burn way more fuel than gasoline or diesel powered. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent So no matter how you slice it you will need more propane to do the same work of a gasoline powered generator.

More or less yes. At that pressure its starts to transition into the power mode. It's not a sudden thing but a smooth taper. That's simple. Too little defuel (too high of sublevel) you'll have smoke or too much defuel (too low in sublevel) it just runs doggy. If its below the stated pressure its defueling. If it's above the stated pressure its in power mode. Ditch the boost bolt and put a normal bolt back in and torque to specifications. Now move your boost sensor over the port in the head. Nice 3/4" port right there behind the fuel filter. It out of the way and you can now torque your manifold down tight like its suppose to be. Boost bolts are known to break off attempting to torque them. Also they always seem to be in the way!

Like my current setup of four 100w aircraft landing light, 2 on hi and 2 on lo reach out a and hit a reflectors at a full 1 mile away. Total for my setup is roughly $120 to build. Bulbs are only $18 a piece to replace.

That's one of the things I resolved a very long time ago. After 96-97 Flood I learned a lot. I had a 4kw generator that powered most of the house during that time and we lost power and phone for over 14 days. That's what got me to evolve and move into solar and hydro power. I wasn't going to be caught in a long term storm again. I remember people willing to pay you hundreds of dollars just to rent your generator to power up freezer to keep food from spoiling. We had 3 or 4 different family all living from our place. We are on a high bench above the high river level. So the only thing I can say is invest in a good generator that has 220 VAC output for your well. Like now I've got a collection of 3 generators now. 6,500w for the main house, 4,000 watt for the guest house shop and 2,000 watt generator for the RV. That's another thing the RV always turns into a fallback home. Like during the flood instead of attempting to power the well and electric water heater for showers we fired up the old Dodge Jamboree motorhome loaded it with water and turned on the propane. Now you had a shower house for every one. Water time came around I would power up the well and fill containers and the RV and then go back to power refrigeration. Then current the main house and the RV are both solar / battery powered with inverters. I plan on added more updated panels to the main house and taking the older panels for the guest house and building a smaller 2,000 watt system for there.

So if a person bought a set of the clear lens head lights and retro fitted those into then it would work exactly how you want it. Correct? http://www.protuninglab.com/94-01-dodge-ram-euro-headlights-black-ks.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=140845616938

Like you said it splitting hairs. The Starlite diesel does provide a tune after you provide a stock tune back to them. Then the built the tune and email the zip file to you to finish the flash on your side. So Starlite is sold empty. I'm sure some where down the line its a method of evading the EPA/CARB rules. As for who actually owns the company we may never know.

Like Starlite Diesel tuners is a EFI Live Tuner. Also for 07 and up. Possibly some thing cheap and easy to use for deleting out trucks. If for some reason EPA/CARB want to come back fining people I sure these little programmers can pull up business and move on without any impact to the mother company. http://www.starlitediesel.com/

I'm going to bet on the Luke's Link is loose.

That's turbo bark almost 100% sure of it. On Edge Comp make sure to run the same sublevel on both 4 and 5 main levels. I want to see if you got the same programming bug I've got. MAIN LEVELS 40 HP 60 HP 80 HP 100 HP 120 HP SUBLEVEL 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost Some extra fuel at low boost Full fuel at 0 PSI of boost

Hell no... Been there done that.

Hex... It's snowing here as I type. Not quite enough to go play yet. Got about a inch on the ground. McCall Grade near the little ski hill.

I would love to have better lighting... Now between the cost of the light and the hacking... Is it worth it?

This is one of the reasons I never barrow any else's vehicles. There is too many unseen variables you won't know about. Like in your case tires? Where they inflated properly for the snow weather. Over-inflation will reduce traction. Tread type? Mud/Snow, studded or not? I've had friends bring there vehicles to me and I've seen 1 ton trucks that are undriveable on snow packed roads. I've seen 4WD trucks stuck on a flat parking lots with all 4 tires slipping. Something I do EVER winter is take my truck out to open parking lot, larger pull out, or field. Then I go play a little bit getting use to that feeling of slipping and sliding. The thing is to be comfortable with the feeling so you don't panic. Again lots of people pick on me about slow speeds and travel here is one place its REQUIRED. Because now if your comfortable with the feeling of slipping and sliding it gives you more time to resolve the sliding issues if your travelling slower. Strange but true sometimes you have to throttle a bit to gain traction again. This is tough to do with a corner coming or travelling down hill. Lot of times when you hit the brakes the tires get lubed from sliding and never gain traction again (more so on Automatic trans) where with a manual you can clutch in and the tires will match up and quit slipping.

Sorry I sit the snow camping out. My Jayco won't survive temps below 32*F because of exterior plumbing design issue. As for the 07 it's got a 5 level EFI live tuner.

So you would only have 33% throttle till 20 PSI boost. It feels like limp mode for power then at 20 PSI it starts pulling hard. A lot of people like Smarty's personally I don't suggest them with to be used in stack nor with stock automatics. All Smarty can do is modify the stock fuel map of the ECM once the vehicle exceeds the stock fuel map that where it turns flat. Most people love the fact Smarty reduces Torque Management the very thing you need to keep from breaking your transmission. Now like TFaoro he's done it right with stacking with a TST fuel only box and Smarty doing the timing but he's spent lots of money on his project truck. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/9995-teardown-and-rebuild/

Basic science a smaller/lighter objects can be spun faster without G force ripping it apart. Where larger/heavier objects the G force will take its toll far sooner.

Exactly what it says. Like sublevel 3 you only get a MAX throttle of 67% of stock fuel rate till 10 PSI then the Edge Comp kicks in and pours the coals to the engine. So you can customize your fuel map a bit with a Edge Comp or Edge Juice. But Edge EZ there is none. Like my normal setting is 5x3 which is 120 HP maximum fuel with 67% maximum throttle till 10 PSI and then pour the coal to it. This is all the adjustment you get on EZ. (60, 63 and 65 HP) Slide the jump on and that's it.