Mopar1973Man

Disconnect the alternator fuse and go for a drive. If the problem is gone the alternator is shot.

You could seen me a PM of what you want. I'll manually plug it in.

Just for information sake... http://www.boschdiagnostics.com/diy/products/bosch-obd-1300

Ummm... The stock trailer connector only has a 40 amp fuse so the charge rate is less than 40 amps.

Remember you got to keep the location for the stock sensor any ways being the fuelling and timing tables is built on that sensor location. Colder location will make the MPG lower.

All stock inside the engine except for the injectors. I've seen IAT driven well up near 180-190*F easy coming out of the back country hauling firewood in 2nd gear and being shoved off the mountain.

Filter minder is designed in inches of WATER not inches of MERCURY. Way different measurement. About the same vacuum force as you would place on a straw with a thick milk shake will pull mine down hard and fast. Now a long straw with a soft drink is about the tension it takes to pull half way. Mine does actually work. The few time boonie hopping through the mud and snow I got the filter wet and pull the minder down. If your reset valve is not function properly then the disc will bleed off and self reset.

The only thing about Rotella is the Ro-Smella... Yeah it does have a strong odor about it.

Absolutely.

There is a good reason why the oil change intervals are getting long in the 3rd and 4th Gen truck... Compared to 1st and 2nd gen

Broke the hub. Same thing Southbend Con OFE and never looked back. Holding good enough to break the tires loose in 4th gear.

Tested monthly. Still working as designed.

Never had Chevron in buckets... Now Mobil Delvac Yes. My local oil company in Grangeville sells Mobil Delvac. Chevron no dice. Proof is in the picture... LOL

As for me suggesting I will suggest buying bulk but CI-4 most likely not. Like here it very very hard to come by.

My question is where the engines stock or modified? I can see modified engine with a puppy behind the wheel eating cams and other engine parts. But stock engine with normal human driving I don't see where you'd need it. Would be a good idea for break in process but as a constant use I would say no for a daily driver. But racing another story because its a modified engine and special requirements.

Smarty does not completely only partially remove torque management. As for complete removal look up the RadBox.

No reason for upgrade unless your adding enhancement module and/or injectors. I'm still running stock HX35W turbo without a issue. The only time I see high EGT's is getting stupid with speed (heading toward 100 MPH) or towing up a steep grade with my RV then I've just got to use gearing to compensate. More or less drive like all the big over the road trucks.

I've got no issues with grease-able parts. Typically they get hit with a grease gun every oil change. They trick is to make sure you don't over do the amount of grease on some parts. (Blow the grease out). Like on my sealed parts I've got a grease needle and been capable of reloading the rubber balloon with grease every few years. Still got factory OE tie rods yet.

No restriction. Filter minder is not moving. Yes I've tested it and it working perfectly.

Just back from a long haul today. 240 miles. Weather Average Temperature: 95*F Humidity: 23% Vehicle Speed: 65 MPH IAT 125*F EGT's: 650-700*F Boost: 2-5 PSI Standard BHAF Now that I watch the IAT closely on the way home. I noticed some thing rather odd. Cruising at 65 MPH produced the coolest temperatures. Coasting down grades with exhaust brake off causes the IAT to rise as much as +10*F so I was seeing as much as 135*F coasting at 65 MPH down a 6% grade. Now of course exhaust brake will kick the IAT hard I can see easy 160-170*F IAT temperature rattling against the exhaust brake. Idling I would be right about 140-145*F. Climbing grades with 15-20 PSI of boost the IAT temp either slipped down 2*F or hold steady at 125*F. Personally there isn't much to gain by enclosing the BHAF in a case. Data Provided By: ISSPro EV2's Gauges and ScanGauge II

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/205-p0622-generator-field-not-switching-properly http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/248-p0743-torque-converter-clutch-solenoidtrans-relay-circuits http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/388-p1765-trans-12-volt-supply-relay-cntrl-circuit http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/232-p1694-no-bus-message-received-from-companion-module http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

Injectors should come with new copper shims and o-rings for the injector. You might want to order a set of cross over o-rings just to cover your rear for leaks.

Ok. So I learned something new.

Here is the answer... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

CCD network issues. Using what I know from the 2nd Gens I would say that you need to check for CCD network voltage typically 2.49V and 2.51V reference to body ground.