Mopar1973Man

I'm glad to stick with my standard open differentials.

Fuel in a liquid state will not burn. You can take any fuel you wish and light it up and the flame will burn on top of the vapor. Diesel having a high flash point will normally take longer to reach this state. But since a diesel engine is based on "Autoignition Temperature" then the compression shorts this conversion. Boost pressure make it even shorter. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature The autoignition temperature or kindling point of a substance is the lowest temperature at which it will spontaneously ignite in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical will ignite decreases as the pressure (boost pressure) or oxygen concentration increases. It is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture (diesel fuel). But again its about of fine of atomazation you can get. Now if you got crappy injectors that are pissing in the cup of the piston then all bets are off and the efficiency is going to way low.

Also on CR engines they start out stock firing ATDC. I remember AH64ID posting the Smarty table of a stock timing table. Now as for the 24V it only one massive event. The whole efficiency thing is based on getting that liquid fuel converted to vapor in a mere few degrees of crank travel to make it go BOOM! So as people go up injector sizes the atomization isn't as fine as the stock injectors but more fuel is pushed into the cylinder hence why most larger injectors get smoky because the droplets get to large and don't convert in a timely manner.

Correct. 7 Holes and each hole is 0.008 thousandths of a inch.

I missed it even... The problem we are all missing is not a donated member. The option is disabled. Thing is it was a BoD group decision when the site rules and options where made back in Feb. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/471-donations-membership

Yeah he's a Idahoian...

From the fire... Look close at the fire and there are homes... Then a fav...

Here is the article on how to do your own EGR delete on your 6.7L Ram Cummins. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/4th-generation-dodge-cummins/75-engine-system/487-egr-delete

Like myself I'm in the process of adding photos to the 6.7L Delete article I'm producing. Creating a folder and going to upload all the photos. Hmmm... Question do you have any experience using FTP servers? I might have to ask around but I doubt less than about 10% of the members here know anything about FTP servers.

I'm going to say there is going to be a gain but small say about 1-2 MPG. I orignally ditched the air dam off the 1996 Dodge Ram. Now when I reinstalled the airdam again I found a small gain with it. So I would say its worth the effort. But don't expect huge gains.

The upload feature on the forum should accept up to 20 megabytes worth of files per post. As for the article database there is a upload function as well for storing photo, files etc to your articles. Just let me know so I can add a folder for you. This way keeps thing neat and tidy.

I would suggest against the photobucket. It's best to upload all that to the site. That way if photobucket goes down or you just dump photobucket then all the photos are lost. I've lost several good articles to people doing that and now the photos and information are gone.

Make sure to take note of IAT and OAT temps both. Because the difference between the two is the key factor.

Correction. IAT adjust timing. Hotter the temperature the more it retards the colder the more it advances. Fuel amount is controlled directly by your throttle foot. On gasoline engine you attempting to get the air cold enough to keep the fuel from pre-igniting. (Knock). Where with diesel your looking for warmer air to aid in ignition quality of the fuel. More so on colder days.

This is because the turbo super heats the air any ways and the intercooler does more for air cooling than a cold air intake. Also on the 24V engine there is a coolant passage under the manifold heating the air up again. also there is a coolant passage mere inches away from the IAT sensor. The 1/2" pipe plug is a coolant passage. But once again the optimal IAT is 100-140*F... So as the air cools below this range you lose roughly 1 MPG for every 10* drop from this range. This is mostly daily drivers not racing. So yes if your racing you want cold air intakes. Daily drivers you want warmed air (100-140*F range).

Your going to spin balance the tires anyways... Not going to make a huge difference.

Problem I see is that there isn't anything that I want to vote for any more. "What's the worse of the two evils?" Answer is they are all evil and don't give a darn. Like even my local government here. I know personally a few of the government officials here in the state. I've seen exactly what happens to a man (or family) after a person is elected into office. No names but I got one up here in my area that I use to work for taking care of their computer and business needs. But he went into office and now he got this arrogance about him as he looks over the end of his nose at you. Not the same man or family any more. He gets his nice salary and doesn't have to do very much if he doesn't want too. Something about Greed and Power corrupts men really fast no matter how good he sounds I'm sure money is involved and his plans will be altered. Kind of like another tidbit I heard of lately. USFS has been closing roads for decades now up here. I finally heard why. The Gov't pays USFS to maintain roads through the state. USFS figured out that if we just close up all the roads and not list that it is closed we can continue to collect the road maintenance funds. Like on the fire they opened up a bunch of old roads to access the fire then they will spend even more money to destroy the very same roads more so to make sure they are never used. Worst part is I'm paying for this crap!

Open invitation if you want to call me we can have a nice long chat about things...

We need our tax dollars going to the people that ABSOLUTELY need it. Not giving free health care to every foreign person that makes it across the border. How about me I'm a working stiff that has to pay through the nose for any kind of health care. But heck if I was a illegal alien from south of the border and make it to the US no problem free health care. I watch all the low life's around me looking for hand outs. Heck unemployment is pretty bad in the Adams, County. I know there is a lot of people on welfare and assistance. For what? Too lazy to get off there big tail end and go to work for a living! Worried more about keeping that damn satellite TV bill paid and food in the fridge. These folks need to be cut off from assistance. Now I know there are some people need help but there are some people that are pure leeches!

The national debit is not my problem. I pay my taxes every year. As for keeping a budget I do that every month and ensure all my bills are paid. If that means I've got to make personal cut back to live within my budget I'll do exactly that. Why is it that these dirt rotten Gov't officials get to write on blank checks without consideration of the budget? Same reason why I say it not my fault because I don't live outside my means and don't require a Gov't Hand Out. (No welfare, gov't assistance, social security, etc.) The problem is these Gov't people need to start living like the rest of the human race and quit spending money they don't have. (Stepping down off my soap box!)

Like mine is roughly +40*F over outside temp normally. Yes hot summer it will dip down like yours to a milder +25*F to 30*F difference.

This was proven by ISX awhile back that heat and no heat shield will not change EGT's nor IAT temps. It completely up to the intercooler for that job. Because even a 20*F difference under the hood is going to change a output temp of the turbo at full boost running 400-450*F into the intercooler. Also ISX proved that under hood temps are typically right close to outside temp about 2-5*F higher typically at highway speeds (Above 35 MPH). But like I say optimal IAT is 100-140*F for MPG's reasons...

I think the video is funny... But I really hate the idea of pushing the p7100 as a fix to every single problem. I think P7100 has it place in the world but not everyone needs to convert to a P-pumped 24V to make his truck run. I've got another gent that contacted me that is attempting this and made more problems than he's curing. Try to cut corners and fab everything at home. When he told me he converted for $250 bucks I knew it wasn't done right. Remember there is guys like myself I'm at 201k on the VP44 pump then 251k on the truck and its 11 years old now and still going strong.

Is it the single knob series? It appears that you got a short to ground which will throw lo volt codes for both. Double check your wiring and make sure nothing is cut on sharp metal or pinched. I can attempt to do repairs on it if you send it to me.