Mopar1973Man

Good article! Thanks Cowboy!

Kind of hard to see what the rubber part condition inside the master cylinder. You have to disassemble it to see. Same with the caliper seals impossible to see the seal inside the calipers. You have to disassemble the calipers to see if there is any debris behind the pistons. Seal kits are like $3 per wheel.

I missed it... I thought there was a decimal in there. Look again he's set to 500V AC scale that meter will not work. You need a meter that starts at 200 mV AC or at least 2V AC.

I've only seen one boost failure and it was a pure and simple torn diaphragm in the boost and had a huge vacuum leak and wouldn't idle properly. Very roughly and easy to stall. Hard pedal tells me possibly there is a vacuum issue to the booster. Now with the color of the fluid I've seen it local where someone added a petroleum product to the brake fluid and made a mess out of a 2012 Ram brake system. Fluid was pitch black and most of all the rubber parts were degrading. The owner got lucky and flushed the system and inspected all the seal replaced what was bad. Petroleum products in brake fluid degrades the rubber but also makes it swell and bind up creating a hard pedal. I've only seen one boost failure and it was a pure and simple torn diaphragm in the boost and had a huge vacuum leak and wouldn't idle properly. Very roughly and easy to stall. Hard pedal tells me possibly there is a vacuum issue to the booster. Now with the color of the fluid I've seen it local where someone added a petroleum product to the brake fluid and made a mess out of a 2012 Ram brake system. Fluid was pitch black and most of all the rubber parts were degrading. The owner got lucky and flushed the system and inspected all the seal replaced what was bad. Petroleum products in brake fluid degrades the rubber but also makes it swell and bind up creating a hard pedal. Like on my truck as the fluid ages the fluid turn more of amber color but not black.

Nevermind... I'll stick to my old way of doing things... Holy cow my pockets are not that deep...

Basically any rubber part that is in contact with the contaminated brake fluid should be inspected and repair if needed. I would rather inspect all the rubber and find out nothing is wrong. It would sure be a horrid experience being in an accident because you didn't take that last step of inspection. The black fluid has me very concerned. Booster is pretty simple device either it works or it don't.

I would flush the entire system out. Black fluid means it might be contaminated with petroleum product of some sort and its attacking the rubber. So This means disassembling the calipers and the wheel cylinder if drums. Replace all the rubber parts. Might have to replace the master as well.

I think about 70k I think I got to look in my maintenance logs. I'll take a look... I've just done my flush so it will be another 2 years. The other problem if I need to top of mixing with other product will most likely wipe out its protection. That's a another job I got to do in the summer time more so. I get mud piled up about 3/8 of the way up the bottom of the radiator.

I need to get the stuff right now its more or less crunch time to get everything done before Wednesday. By Wednesday we are going into the freezer for temperature so it was easier to just flush it out and change it that to drive all over attempting to find the pH additive up here or order it. I still want to do a coolant filter set up but I need to get the free time.

Articles was updated... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/133-cooling-system-flushing

I've got the plug order up at NAPA. I just got to get them sometime and do the work. I've got to cut the plug off the end and re-wire a new trailer cord on. Then rewire all that mess in the tube.

The BigTex in the photo above.

On the software it will do the look up over the internet for you as well. So it gives a P number and brief description and then you can do a look on the internet of more information. I'll see if I can produce a few screen shots for you.

I've travelled a total of 255k miles now and been keeping up on my coolant flushing. This batch was over extended and shows it in the bucket the color was starting to shift just wee bit. As for the radiator and block still going strong and very clean! Still using universal yellow coolant and doing just fine. Don't need any fancy orange HOAT. Lookie... No scale build up!!! 255k miles and like a factory fresh radiator. Block is even clean yet and just a surface rust like back from my previous picture shoot.

Man this sucks I just finally got back to the fuse blowing problem on the trailer and found out what happened. Standing at the rear of the trailer the 3rd right center marker light decided to spit the plug and allow it to bounce around and melt the wiring out. Oh Great... My yard mule for trailer work.

It might... If the AC noise is there it will be disabled and will not have the lock up issues.

Then now time to unhook the alternator and retest if the problem goes away the alternator has failed. The truth is the best diagnostic tool for this is a O-scope... Most people are not going to want to buy one. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/automotive-oscilloscope

Difficult to do in a diesel for a wet test because of the small hole and trying to get oil on the rings and not in the piston bowl. In any case the engine will have to be open up at least the head and inspected.

Pull the alternator wire loose. (Both the charge lead and the field lead). Go for test drive. If it gone then the AC noise is too high. Some meter are not showing correct number vs. frequency.

I got a replacement straw for a customers truck I got to install. The previous shop cut it so short it running out of fuel at 1/4 tank now. Tell you the truth it much much easiest to drop a tank than lift a bed. I can drop a fuel tank quicker than fighting to jack and support a very heavy bed that might slip off and do some serious injury or damage the bed attempting to hinge off of a couple of bolts which doesn't work for long beds at all. With the tank dropped you can see to work much easier...

I typically leave mine in MPG mode all summer but come winter time I switch to OFF to get the grid heater to function. Then after started flip to MPG mode.

There is no really change in running. What you will notice in cold start ups the then when you start in Normal (OFF) and then be going done the road anf flip to MPG mode you notice the timing rattle nearly disappears completely. Engine becomes very quiet. This is the effect of retarding the timing. Yes I said retarding and not advancing.

Time for new hydro's. Replace both master ans slave units. I'm going to bet you have a little fluid leaking back into the cab at the push rod.

That's why my original post I remember that post too. I'm almost sure the central timer has the security feature. The only thing I can think off is having the whole thing reflashed.

I know everyone on CF.com is raving on how nice 2WD LO is. Myself I really don't care for a bunch of modified stuff in the truck. I just replaced it with a another vacuum motor. I so rarely even use the 4WD feature even in the winter time I'm hard pressed to pulling the lever in either truck. This is even this is 2WD HI time.