Mopar1973Man

Time to come back to planet earth. If your running a stockish truck there is no reason to buy top notch offroad suspension parts. Especially if your a pavement queen. Even with my high amount of off pavement use I still would never even suggest or buy something like that.

I think you have bearing failure of the carrier. The tone ring should be center of the hole. I imagine there was a lot of metal in the lube when you dump it out right? You'll have to pull both axle shafts and then you can check carrier bearing play. I'm going to bet money the bearings are lose.

I would see about getting information on the pump and if there is a disassembly and cleaning you can do plus lubrication.

OMG...

Delphi, Exide and Johnson Controls. These are the 3 companies that manufacture all brand names of vehicle batteries.

So far the WalMart's are still holding up. As for NAPA they also do very well too. Personally the one I see fail more often is Interstate. Mostly that's what sold at the local stores here and people abuse the batteries by driving across town (Less than 1 mile) then shut down the vehicle. Not even enough time to charge up from the time time it was started.

Same principal as air conditioning there is high pressure on one side of the orifice and then the pressure is reduced on the other side and you get cold. But the problem is the pressure side will remain hot which is the VP44 its the return line that is getting cooler. The thing is if you install a fuel cooler I would do it on the return line which is the hottest fuel from the engine (injector return and VP44). At least then it would cool the fuel tank. The big problem is being able to disable the cooler come winter time. It would sure suck to have a cooler that helps gell up your fuel tank.

Personally if it was me... I would pull the entire air system down and clean all the tubing, intercooler, and turbo up. Then while its apart you'll be able to tell what is going on. Is it just over oiled K&N filter or is the turbo seals shot? You'll know when you pull the tubing out to clean it. If the seals are leaking oil you'll have oil all the way through the system to the manifold. It would be a wise move to remove all the dust from the system.

Back to my original comment about AC noise creating heat with in the circuits. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/10383-helpknow-just-enough-to-be-dangerous-and-having-problems/#entry117004

I would pour a bit of paint stripper in the plugged up areas and work with it. I would be careful some paint strippers can and will damage rubber o-rings.

Problem is the front seal will fail long before you reach that. This is why I don't look at fuel temp or flow issues. Again why do people like me go through extremes both hot and cold and now got 11 years of summers (117*F max this year) and winters (-25*F last winter) no issues.

Just remember there is only 3 companies producing all the batteries. So name brand is meaningless for the most part. Make sure that it fits the vehicle CCA and size wise. After that make sure it fits your budget and somewhere you capable of dealing with for warranty work. Like myself I got WalMart batteries and can get to Walmart anywhere to replace them. As for doing group 31's it not required so folks believe its a much better set up but the batteries are physically larger than the tray. The extra CCA is pretty minimal. Bare minimum requirement is 750 CCA batteries so anything above that is a bonus. I can say my 820 CCA's are doing just fine in minus weather. There is other things that will make batteries perform better like good solid cables that are not corroded in the center of the copper. Good clean terminals without any lead oxide (black hard coating). I tend to favor lead acid batteries because I can clear 10 years of service with everything from truck/car batteries, to ATV's, motorcycles, and lawn mowers. As long as the battery is topped off with distilled water and charged properly and put away charged then the vehicle will start every morning no problem for better than a decade.

Agreed... That won't change a thing being the port from the VP44 is very small so increasing the line size does absolutely nothing. Return port is on the left... I did a video long ago and the return flow rate does not improve with pressure. Only once it reaches 14 PSI its fairly steady from that point on.

Another wonderfully dusted engine caused from K&N filters... I can't answer for the K&N tube and box. But a stock tube and a piece of 4" exhaust pipe inside the neck of the BHAF will give support. I would follow the advise above. As for the tube it might be better to get a old stock tube if need be.

I know this is kind of indirect but... Like my 3 weeks of working this fires around me I got a good clear look at how Gov't works versus local communities. There is a absolute rift between Gov't and local folks and it never goes away. This is because "Gov't is trained and knowledgeable" for said subject (fire fighting) so local information is meaningless because we have Gov't agencies that take care of everything (weather information, mapping, etc.). But when it all comes down the locals knew more about weather, how to fight the fire, roads and trails, etc. Same holds true for other cities or towns there is too much Gov't involvement in our daily life and Federal Gov't needs to go on a huge diet and budget cut. I mean huge!

"Not I", said the fly...

Might be a time to upgrade the 1996 Dodge Ram to something a bit better...

Blown fuse? Bad bulb? Bad socket? Damaged wires? Headlight grounds is in the cab at the driver side kick panel. Not under the hood.

Put +12V power to the brown lead and ground the White lead. The trailer running lights should work. If so the circuit on the trailer is good. Now check the socket where the brown wire would be on the truck. There is a Trailer Relay in the PDC and there should be a fuse also for it as well. Make sure the trailer fuse and the relay are functional.

Our founding fathers didn't work for the government for a pay check they all did it voluntary. No profit made. If our current system went back to that then the voting and out come would be greatly different.

I can give you a clue that Ed (Yankneck696) already has designed a awesome fuel cooler for these trucks that will improve fuel cooling performance. I was suppose to beta test the first series of cooler.... But his Dad died a of a stroke and there was personal issues occurring in the family so he's vanished off the radar for the time being. His design solved a bunch of different issues and had some bonuses too. I wish I could tell more but I can't.

I tend to agree. The whole government system is broken. No matter who you vote for is corrupt. I think the only cure is the Good Lord's Judgement on man... There isn't anyone in the political system I can trust or would vote for to do his/her job. They all talk big during campaign time and then do the opposite when elected...

Still the problem remain for any external cooler has to make contact with the circuit board. Which it can't. This why the whole thing is based on fuel cooling...

I would opt for 80w-90 lubes. Like poor JL_Welding found out the 80w-140 was so thick it wouldn't get out to the bearings fast enough. Even with the differential tipped with a floor jack it took over 30 minutes to even get lube to the end of the axle bearings.

Just to let you all know what still going on. I'm still at home but the fire continues to burn. or... http://inciweb.nwcg.gov/photos/IDPAF/2015-08-14-1651-Teepee-Springs/picts/2015_09_03-13.39.56.584-CDT.jpeg