Mopar1973Man

No. I still got stock hydraulics in my truck with a 13" clutch.

Might have to do the bleed procedure to fix it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/54-hydraulic-clutch-master-and-slave-replacement

Interesting... http://www.choishine.com/Projects/giants.html

Rear sensor is still function if the speedometer is dead on with the GPS then I say it working... As CTCummins posted these are the sensors that cam in his unit bearings. But didn't work so I'm going to safely say the sensors are no good.

Ahh... Other steam player out there. Sorry I'm not a first person shooter type but love the strategy of Wakfu. It not only a RPG but really in depth government, economy, and other things. It's more about building and balance than absolute killing.

China on both trailers zero issues. Even resolving some of that issue with proper inflation math and understand the speed limitations. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/rv-trailers-towables/486-inflating-st-trailer-tires-properly Still to this day I've never experienced a explosive tire blow out.

Nothing wrong with Japan / China made tires. I'm running Black Lions HT's on my truck. http://www.toyo-rubber.co.jp/english/company/enkaku/ http://www.toyo-rubber.co.jp/english/company/data/ http://www.toyo-rubber.co.jp/english/company/oversea_network/

Starter circuit is pretty simple. The starter relay powers the Brown wire going down there so I'm going to say either the relay, fuse, or weak connection.

John I though you had industrial truck tires now?

All work and no play make for a very dull person... I figured I would share what game I'm playing maybe some others would like to join me. http://store.steampowered.com/app/215080/ My character name is Mopar Man (Fitting huh?)

I would tend to agree with Bill I would check the wheels for build up first. Then check the balance afterwards. Thing is it takes so little of out of center weight to create a wobble. Especially will large wheels and tires.

Nice. Done way better than I did. I'm not going to bother posting.

I got a few pictures shot too, I'll attempt to upload in the morning.

I just went out to look and can't see it yet. Sure is dark out. I mean DARK OUT!

I'm going to use that link for awhile fun to post some up on FB...

Thing is there is no absolute number. 0.1 is for sure damaging. As for normal is 0.01 to 0.03 on average. Some weird problem reported near the 0.05 mark but random in nature. Thing is the more and more I talk to people the more I keep learning and trying to narrow down. The biggest thing is unhooking and test driving with a alternator wired in usually test if it failed out not. The strange then is I've seen some fail as low as 0.05. Now is that because of poor testing, junk digital meter, or human error?

Again... Alternator noise damage. MOSFET's that control the lift pump circuit are damaged. Take notice there is 2 white/yellow wire powering the lift pump directly from the ECM. 0.07 is not exactly good... 0.01 to 0.03 is normal. 0.05 is marginal... 0.10 is failed...

Dumb question why is it that anyone talks about engine oil they look for the quickest flowing oil. Then when doing axle lubricants they get the thickest tar to put in the axles? Why is that? If I could find a GL-5 lube that was lower in the winter (W) side I would jump on it. Like 75W-90 or simular in a GL-5 petroleum base.

Being all I got locally is NAPA I typically just get grease-able u-joints. No issues here. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/U-Joint-Rear-Driveshaft-at-Transmission/_/R-PUJ295_0408505239

Send the ECM (one on the driver side of the block) to be repaired. Then take the alternator have it bench tested for diode ripple. It should be below 0.05 (50mV AC) anything above .1 is a fail. There is a thread here where the alternator just wiped out the VP44... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/10463-vp-died-last-night/

Absolutely... I always suggest using 80w-90 weights in the axle. 140 is way too thick and even cold it barely even moves it like tar. Even towing I still use 80w-90 you want a lubricant that will flow out to the hubs in a quick fashion as well. Ask JL_Welding about his experience with 140 weight synthetics. As long as the gear lube is a GL5 lubricant its good to go.

Rebuilt kit won't cost much in time.

I mention Klein Bottle Computer but it seem they have shut down. Web site is nothing more than a email address now.

The fact that you had to wire the lift pump to the ignition switch tells me you already had issues with AC noise from the alternator. Also the lack of WTS light confirms it even more...

Like myself I've got a reman'ed NAPA 140 Amp alternator and it still testing at 0.025 or so.