Mopar1973Man

True. The MPG fooler does indeed retard timing. The ignition rattle nearly disappears in my truck with the fooler and comes right back without. What funny about about the whole cold air thing. I can get fully warmed up in a place like Boise, ID and drive into cooler weather and instantly see changes in the cold mountain then instantly see change back when I get to warm area like Riggins, ID. But never really see a change at all with the fooler on. Don't get me wrong I do see impact of the bitter cold starting in the dead winter but after engine temp reaches 195*F as long as the fooler is on the MPG are at least low 20's to high teens. Without it it will fall seriously to mid teens for MPGs. I gotta thank ISX for helping see the difference between 12V mechanical which has no loss in the winter to the 24V that does have losses in the winter. I never cold idle a engine to warm it up anymore. Even my gas power stuff I fire up and go. Keep the load light till the the engine warms up and the kick the pig.If I was attempt to warm up the truck idling (normal) it would take at least 30 minutes at 32*F. Now if I'm in a hurry and need heat to clear ice from the windows. 3 cylinder high idle and about 900*F of pyro and she is fully warmed up in about 7-10 minutes at 175*F. Then it automatically kicks out. But that 3 cylinder mode cost fuel... lots of fuel! Flow rate is like 6-9 GPH...

Now that sounds scary...

131 Mile trip today. Picking up parts and doing repair jobs as usual. I'm now down in ambient temperature to about 45*F and 60-70% humidity. My offset is now shift to about +50*F or about 95*F. When checking the IAT sensor. I'm using the MPG fooler at this point and seeing a shift of about 2-3 MPG just toggling the switch from IAT sensor to the fooler (143*F). I'm see a gain while on the fooler and loss when back to the IAT sensor. Snow line is sneaking down at about 6,500 feet.

Not bad... Distance to Ontario, OR WalMart 125 miles Distance to Town 15 miles north (Riggins) or 20 miles south (New Meadows) Nothing there... Just food and fuel... nothing more.. Distance a full service town 35 miles (McCall) Distance to Big City Ontario, OR 125 miles Distance to work varies but like today cover 131 miles... Thing is start and stopping and idle time is pretty low with me because of the distance you have to travel to get to anything. That like a person in a large city that travel miles of traffic lights stop & go and lots of idle time.

Idle time is next to nothing. Average speed is 45-65 MPH. Rarely do I run 75-80 MPH (Fire Calls). Starts a stops like today 4 starts and stops. Majority of my phone calls come from either New York, Texas or California most are in large cities. I've got one gent that is just outside of New York city. Several guys that call quite often from around Huston Texas Area... But yes there is a group of guys that are ranchers/farmers and such that are off the beaten path as well. Thing is I don't think that most folks that clear say 30-40k miles a year have much to worry about. Now the ones that barely clear 3-7k miles a year... Now you got some serious stop start counts. Short distance driving. Incomplete warm up cycles. Which reminds me of a chap in New York City which that all he do for total mileage a year is mere 3k miles.

Ok... I give you the fact the scenery is much better up here... As for driving and use. Compare the fact of most common folks live in a large city and barely drive 10 miles total to work every day. One of my favorite question I ask people on the phone is how far to your local MalMart? What funny a majority of people tell me its 2-10 miles away. So I would say those folk would have more failures because of short driving. Right? Like my total ending mileage for today was 131 miles.

Maybe everyone should pitch in an create an article about how to do this. Like my trip today to McCall which is 5,100 feet roughly and there is snow it looks to be around 6,500 feet and snow on the ground. I figure like typical I'll see snow here by November.

Oh just for fun info... I'm at 94.2 miles already today and still heading back out to do 2 other jobs. I'll pass the 100 mark easy today.

Personally I have issues with any washable filter media. The thing is most of the better brand name like AFe and others is the filter might do fine out of the box. Now wash the media a few times and tell me what the filtering rating is like. Most will wash it till just screen. I've seen some pretty ugly filters.

Even long haul I still stop every 100-150 miles or so. I done a few trip of 600 miles in a day. Even at 100-150 miles that's 2-3 hours of sitting in the seat. Even when I did ride along with "Fetch N Carry" trucking the driver are the same way about 2-3 hours and stop. Very few people can go beyond that... Again this is local trucking on US95 and not interstate travel like most do.

Even if I was to drive to Boise, ID I would start and stop the engine a few times. I do stop to take pee breaks, grab a bite to eat, stretch my legs, etc. So no matter what you going to stop and shut down a few times regardless. For a few minutes or longer. This is "real life" not a lab exercise or dyno-run where it can be left running forever. UPS driver LOL... You should see ours. Start it up and hit the highway and stomped to the floor board WOT till he reaches 65-70 MPH. I won't knock the CI-4 oils. But again cost vs. availability is another problem for me. Is it worth it for me to drive long distance (Boise, ID or Lewsiton, ID) to gain the CI-4 oils or would it just be better to go to McCall, ID and buy a quality name brand CJ-4 oil in Napa that is on sale? There is another difference you live close to the big city of Boise, Nampa and Caldwell with plenty of options. But I know you AMSOil user so that's not so in your case.

That's what I was thinking about a piece of ABS plastic 4" and another rubber boot and clamps. What's kind of funny about this whole filter thing. I know of a shop here locally that the owner is yanking these filters out of the Duramax diesel and installing K&N filters because he claims they are too restrictive of a filter. So he's be selling K&N filters quite heavy out here. I go the other way around and suggest the owner at least keep the OEM filter set up which is still better than K&N.

I know the check valve will solve a lot of problems for priming but that is just showing you sill have a problem. Some how air is being pulled into the fuel system and allowing the fuel to drain back. I would look at the suction side of the fuel system a bit closer. Typically they never leak outwards because its under a suction/vacuum while running and when the engine is off its still gain a vacuum and pulls air in. The air naturally rises in the fuel system and drains it back to the tank.

I'm want to at least try it once. But The price tag still has me hunt a bit more. The other thing I want to to figure out is how to mount the filter minder in as well. Since mind does work. More things to ponder.

There a quit a few people out here with old rusted out Ford, Chevy and even Dodge trucks for that exact purpose. Most older trucks fitted with plow blades or maybe set up with chains for driving out of there place to catch their good vehicle at the bottom.

Ok so my TDR doc is out of date but I've never found anything newer. Is TDR going to release a newer article? As for my distance. I don't just drive to town once. I might drive to McCall for parts, I might drive to White bird to work on fire trucks, then drive home for dinner, then drive back out for New Meadows, ID for hardware. You never know here but my average minimum distance is about 100 miles per driving day. As For oil I'm never going to profess to be absolute perfect but... CJ-4 oils can't be the work of the devil either. Way to many vehicle on the highway with dumb people going to Jiffy Lube and changing oil. Their vehicles didn't just fall apart. As for using CajFylnn yes he's one of my documented people I can use for distance. As for other there was a few others but slipped away before reaching 1 million. A few here that well past 500k miles without much effort again slipped way with little documentation. Now working in two shops now I can say that there is more people that just don't give a darn and use what ever is cheap. There is a few people in the years I've doing work that will provide a synthetic oil for there rig. (Very Very Rare!). But in all the oil changes I've done I've seen plenty of CJ-4 dumped in a crankcase and plenty dump out and never seen any diesel dying from it. I've got Ford diesel's with 300k and 400k miles and still kicking around me. Dodge Cummins trucks same way 300k to 500k miles easy. I will say yes that CJ-4 isn't like CI-4 oils but it's not the end of the world nor is the crank going to grind way to nothing.

That's even a old rusted out Ford Truck how fitting...

Congrads on the the New Family!

Easier to unbolt the intake horn and slide it on. As for trimming all mine fit perfect. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/3615-gotta-say-thank-you-vulcan-performance/

Sounds like quite the battle on the food end.

I guess I'll get the truck jacked back up and dig deeper at getting it fixed.

Speedometer is dead nuts with the GPS and never misses a beat. (Granted my speedometer is about 0.5 MPH off). Now I left the shims just the way they were. There was 2 shims on the driver side and no shim on the passenger side.

4000 foot of elevation you could see a easy 4 foot of snow typically. Like in New Meadows its 3,800 feet and the rule of thumb is a normal snow her should make the fence post disappear.

All I do is spray the inside of the silicone boot with the degreaser and slide it on. Hair spray can be a PITA if it dries to fast. As with the degreaser it will not leave a oil film like WD-40 and cause the boot to slip.

I did get a set from Eric at Vulcan... The secret to installing them easy is using Zep Orange degreaser and spray the silicone boots down with the degreaser and they will slide on much easier than with WD-40. Seriously! Then when the dry out they stick like glue and are a real PITA to remove. Never have to worry about blowing a boot off.