Mopar1973Man

Pull the alternator fuse and the field wire and go for a test drive if it goes away the alternator failed. (Warranty time...)

Still rebuilding is the cheapest thing right now. I will admit JohnFak has play with plenty of turbos and combinations. Then again it all about how deep the owners pockets are.

Might be true but again that's a apple to orange comparing again. The whole thing is about the 2015 vehicle and there heavy emissions. I seriously doubt they are that bad.

I would take a rust free Cummins truck in a heart beat.

All joking aside with Bill's funny pics above.... We all know VW are not that bad emissions and smoke.

All high idle sales will be here on the site for here on out. We will be the producers, vendors and the support team rolled into one...

Little feedback on this subject. I've just got done ordering the printed circuit boards for the high idle kit. Me78569 is working on getting his soldering station purchased. We should be able hopefully get them to market before the end of the month.

Like in my case I don't have any kind of serious blow by. Just the light vapor that drifts from under the truck from the vent pipe.. Like a lot of trucks are starting to lose tappet cover gaskets and other rubber seals. It's possible the seals had enough heating and cooling cycles to make them brittle and start to leak? I'll have to admit I've done a few startup and run to the fire house without much warm up periods. Some times blow past the fire house and go directly to the scene. So in my case I know the engine has some abuse. As for CSM he'll have to speak for himself...

Good time to do all the maintenance, upgrading and inspection of the head and other parts.

Looks like a valve seal article is going to be produced...

Can of Carb Dip works just as good as the ultra-sonic cleaner maybe a bit cheaper for a can of Carb Dip. After dipping all your parts the just wipe clean.

Almost like a small set of locking forceps would work too but that small it might crush them. I like Bill's idea the aligator clip would be a good tool if small enough.

Seal kits are cheap. I've already look them up. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Valve-Stem-Oil-Seal-Set/_/R-FPBSS70937_0147481126 Now all you need is the valve tool. http://www.torkteknology.com/products/Cummins%C2%AE-24V-5.9-%26-6.7-Valve-Spring-Compressor--CVSC010.html Just remove all the rockers and injectors. Using a piece of tie wire as a measure of TDC run each cylinder up to TDC. Release your valve retainers and lift the springs off. Now you can change you valve seals. Valves will sit on top of the pistons. Make sure to lube the seals up before installing and also look for sharp spots on the valves stem that might slice the seal. I've done a set on a Datsun head and the very last seal got nicked by a sharp spot. Crap had to buy another seal kit for one stinken seal.

I've already posted Weiser Idaho salt pile. The only thing I can suggest is getting a small hone stone/brush and lightly hone out the ball joint holes to clean them up a bit. Also make sure to coat the holes with anti-seize so maybe next time its not so bad. As for rust even though Idaho pours the salt and stone down on the highways. I lucky so for to keeping the rust at bay.

OMG! Look at all that nature's thread locker! (Rust!)

I've got the same issue small cloud of bluish white smoke on start up. My oil consumption is much much less. So minimal that I don't add any oil between oil changes at all. Might use a half quart total in 7k miles. I've also got a few other oil leaks to content with as well.

As long as your twisting high RPM's at highway speed. If low RPM's like myself wondering through the steep mountain roads lower timing is more optimal. There is several sub-divisions with residential speeds of 15 MPH and grades as steep as 16-18%. High timing is not desired.

Just make him a Fummins Owner...

Might be true of your running a Hot Rod VP44 or stacking a Smarty (timing) and Edge Comp... Stock VP44 there is no harm in running high levels. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/25-2002-dodge-ram-2500

Good to hear...

I run nearly wide open (5x3). I control the fuel with my foot. As for towing you can try if you want... But if if you set your cruise on a grade towing and then just turn off the Edge Comp you'll find a drop in power but the ECM will throttle back up on cruise and you'll find the EGT's are just the same.

http://www.hakko.com/english/products/hakko_fx888d_feature.html#productNav That is very impressive for a soldering station. Wow!

Well the best I can say is hit a shop that can do the work...

We yeah doing a overhaul of a engine on the kitchen table is not exactly my cup of tea either. What stops you from pulling the transmission down and checking the flexplate?