Mopar1973Man

I know real life grab us and keep most busy then winter time rolls around and everyone gets trapped inside with cold weather. So eventually everyone comes home to the forum.

I've pulled transmission and installed transmission laying in the dirt what wrong with that?

The problem is that Cummins originally set up the high idle software for some serious cold temperatures. So normal Joe would have to be in these conditions to get it to start. So with a bit of tinkering I found a way of controlling when and where the high idle software is started. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/64-mopar1973man-com-high-idle-kit/440-tsb-18-019-01-cold-idle-engine-warming So if you select 6 cylinder it raises the idle RPM to 1,200 RPM and holds till 175*F then cancels. If you select 3 cylinder mode then it cuts 1,2,3 and fires only on 4,5,6 creating virtual loading on the engine and warms up faster. Still the same it ramps up to 1,200 RPM but with 3 dead cylinders. Now toss a exhaust brake on top and enhance the warm up time to less than 10-12 minutes in -25*F temperatures the engine coolant will be 175*F.

No problem. Just confirms your problem wasn't anything more than sensors being bad... Sad to see you bought a ABS computer over it. (Did you?)

The overflow valve...

That's the original price of the previous one. As far as I know the price will remain the same.

None of the above. The ECM has two modes of operation. 100% duty cycle for running engine and 50% duty cycle (modulated) during cranking of the engine. MAP sensor only affect the timing and fuel of the VP44. Doesn't affect the performance of the lift pump. What your seeing is high fuel demands and the fuel pressure falling. So what is happening is the demand volume is higher than the supply volume so the fuel pressure falls. Then is reverse when load is reduced the demand volume reduced and supply volume over whelms the VP44 so the fuel pressure rise and overflow valve opens more.

No. I still got stock hydraulics in my truck with a 13" clutch.

Might have to do the bleed procedure to fix it. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/54-hydraulic-clutch-master-and-slave-replacement

Interesting... http://www.choishine.com/Projects/giants.html

Rear sensor is still function if the speedometer is dead on with the GPS then I say it working... As CTCummins posted these are the sensors that cam in his unit bearings. But didn't work so I'm going to safely say the sensors are no good.

Ahh... Other steam player out there. Sorry I'm not a first person shooter type but love the strategy of Wakfu. It not only a RPG but really in depth government, economy, and other things. It's more about building and balance than absolute killing.

China on both trailers zero issues. Even resolving some of that issue with proper inflation math and understand the speed limitations. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/rv-trailers-towables/486-inflating-st-trailer-tires-properly Still to this day I've never experienced a explosive tire blow out.

Nothing wrong with Japan / China made tires. I'm running Black Lions HT's on my truck. http://www.toyo-rubber.co.jp/english/company/enkaku/ http://www.toyo-rubber.co.jp/english/company/data/ http://www.toyo-rubber.co.jp/english/company/oversea_network/

Starter circuit is pretty simple. The starter relay powers the Brown wire going down there so I'm going to say either the relay, fuse, or weak connection.

John I though you had industrial truck tires now?

All work and no play make for a very dull person... I figured I would share what game I'm playing maybe some others would like to join me. http://store.steampowered.com/app/215080/ My character name is Mopar Man (Fitting huh?)

I would tend to agree with Bill I would check the wheels for build up first. Then check the balance afterwards. Thing is it takes so little of out of center weight to create a wobble. Especially will large wheels and tires.

Nice. Done way better than I did. I'm not going to bother posting.

I got a few pictures shot too, I'll attempt to upload in the morning.

I just went out to look and can't see it yet. Sure is dark out. I mean DARK OUT!

I'm going to use that link for awhile fun to post some up on FB...

Thing is there is no absolute number. 0.1 is for sure damaging. As for normal is 0.01 to 0.03 on average. Some weird problem reported near the 0.05 mark but random in nature. Thing is the more and more I talk to people the more I keep learning and trying to narrow down. The biggest thing is unhooking and test driving with a alternator wired in usually test if it failed out not. The strange then is I've seen some fail as low as 0.05. Now is that because of poor testing, junk digital meter, or human error?

Again... Alternator noise damage. MOSFET's that control the lift pump circuit are damaged. Take notice there is 2 white/yellow wire powering the lift pump directly from the ECM. 0.07 is not exactly good... 0.01 to 0.03 is normal. 0.05 is marginal... 0.10 is failed...

Dumb question why is it that anyone talks about engine oil they look for the quickest flowing oil. Then when doing axle lubricants they get the thickest tar to put in the axles? Why is that? If I could find a GL-5 lube that was lower in the winter (W) side I would jump on it. Like 75W-90 or simular in a GL-5 petroleum base.