Mopar1973Man

I'm going to say more than likely its a injection pump problem but run the diagnostic articles and see where it leads you. It still possible the cam sensor is the problem but with the p0126 code I would say the Vp44 is getting tired. I'll take it off your hands first before you burn it.

Still no matter what is lower in BTU content... Not by much but petroleum diesel is the top of the BTU list and petroluem gasoline is top of the gasoline BTU list.

I couldn't do that from my tablet... As for the APPS reset... (Bottom of the page) http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/35-apps-sensor-replacement-procedure

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/161-p0216-fuel-injection-pump-timing-failure http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/415-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-requirements http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/49-fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps That should get you some good reading...

Remember P0216 is a wear code from poor lubricity or a pressure code from poor fuel pressure. 24 PSI is a bit to high shouldn't cause any issues but it can. Lack of lubricity can play hell on the timing piston.

All equipment has been put back in station and the site is cleared. We are now all back home! Yeah! My first beer in awhile...

I'm using a Southbend Con OFE clutch doing excellent for towing heavy trailers and loads. No issues here. Drives like stock clutch.

Time too look at the article for p1690 and do bit of diagnostic work. It could be a simple crank/cam sensor problem.

Dont quote me but I think it's 1" socket.

Currently its runs south towards New Meadows. At end of shift today we will be packing out all truck and equipment. It will be nice to have a bit of down time. ;-) Its been nice to have some WiFi time to on the scene. I'm ready to go home.

Best I can say for help is my video and article for the HVAC box removal.

When I get time to get my logs up to data I can plug in my average data. As of my current data I'm a average of 17.xx MPG for 200k worth of logs.

From what I understand from the Division Supervisor today is the last day for our Fire Dept. After that if Salmon River Rural FD is needed the USFS with page us out from that point on. From USFS they consider Elk Lake Subdivision safe for the time being.

Still not enough really. I've only got 4 hours of daylight (10am to 2pm) in direct contact to the panels in the winter. The only way to fix that is to move the panels to the top of the mountain ridge. Its about nice slow long charging periods not fast and hard which is very hard on batteries.Again this why I get 15 years from batteries on the house. My inverter is shut down to 1 AC amp charge rate (120 watts) and the solar tops out at 16-18 Amp charge rate (400 watts). I need more time not amps...

Slow start today nothing much happening on the north side. Really cool morning...

That does work. The only difference I do it weekly.

Pepsi check your voltage regulator for the transmission. I bet that wire came loose.

Yeah I sell at a much lower rate which just reduces the power bill considerable during the summer time come winter time its back up.

As for my hair its not changed. Still blonde and long. I've had long hair since 1984. As for the color I started the bleaching back about 4-5 years ago and still do it. I'm on the grid but sell my extra power back. So my normal daytime load is about 3-15 Amp @ 120 VAC. I can only have a maximum load of 33 Amp period. So any produced power is used first before city. During the summer I'm most on my own power but come winter the hours of daylight are very limited so not enough for winter use. Then the hydro is shut down in the winter which would have freeze issues. So that's why I'm still grid tied. Now if a winter storm knocks out the power I just keep on living normally. The canyon is black but I'm still working on computers. Inverter is typically quick enough to switch over that neither computer drops and we just keep working. I can live a normal life with no city tie for at least 24 hours without recharging at all from solar or hydro. I still have a back up 6,500w generator too.

I took some time to get to the top of the canyon on the south side to get an action picture... I was offered the weekend off. I'm going to stick it out with the Chief make sure we make through this last blow up. This is all shot at Smoky Boulder Road...

We are forecast for a wind event today. Not a good thing.

No I don't. I just make sure to rinse the underside off once a week even in the bitter cold of the winter to get the mud and salt off the frame. The longer the salt and mud stays in contact with the metal the more rust is created. So it not just wash the paint but to rinse the underside too. I've worked on several local truck that look the same way because they think it looks cool to leave the mud caked in the wheel well and on the frame underneath the truck.

That's one of the few things I do. I bring cover-alls and roll under the truck and look up. So what the interior and paint is nice... The rest of the truck needs attention. 250k miles... Idaho roads are mostly dirt. Salt used quite a bit in the winter time... Very little if any surface rust.

No. Not a RV275 (+40 HP) its a +50 HP very small difference but its there... 55 MPH - 1-2 PSI 65 MPH - 3-5 PSI 75 MPH - 5-8 PSI This why I never upgraded exhaust majority of my engine time is well below 10 PSI cruising. Towing now is a different story but I don't tow fast either so my boost and EGT's are still rather lowish. Climbing a grade is a different story but still very very controllable.

+50 HP injectors, HX35 Turbo, 3" Exhaust, Edge Comp 5x3 55 MPH - 550*F 65 MPH - 650*F 75 MPH - 750*F Assuming flat ground, no head or tail winds, no cargo or trailers.