Mopar1973Man

Dripley is another. I called him and looking for a phone call back. Yabbadoo I got a phone call from and she has been busy and will be returning back to the site soon. MnTom I'm not sure about no contact has occurred. http://www.dieseltrucksite.com/ Yankneck696 I know is still above ground and functional but dealing with family issues (father pasted away) and dealing with battle over the will the last I heard. https://www.facebook.com/ed.grafton.5 Rancherman no contact.

Give them a call maybe they can tell you a part number so you can order one or source it out.

Wow... and I live in the rust belt too. But I've got nothing that bad.

The early series the unit bearing and the rotor came out together. Then you had to press all the stud out to remove the rotor. The later series like Ronman says you just remove caliper and caliper bracket and the rotor slides off the studs.

There is a rebuild kit for the hydrobooster from One Eye Jack's... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/79-brake-hydrobooster-rebuild

http://www.rvforum.net/SMF_forum/index.php

I'm going to bet your blower motor has bad bearings. I ran mine till it start to squeak. What was strange is the motor ran fine but had a mild squeak that comes and goes. Then when you pull it out the motor shaft is stiff as hell. Don't spin very good at all. Hence there is a increase in amperage draw to muscle the blower around, also why the plug would be getting heat damage.

Now it should be a walk in the park now.

Knowing Hex has been a firefighter once before he understand the difference from a spectator to front line fighting a fire. Form a spectator view its sad to see homes lost, forest burned out and things altered for long time to come. Now being on the front line and struggling to alter this monster path of destruction is a hard battle. I've had my fair share of up close and personal fire fights. I'm as ready as I possibly can be. But don't get me wrong I'm still freaked out.

Sorry... Everything leaks eventually. Even mine leaks now. But a lighter color like Machine Gray, Cummins Red, might make it easier to see later on.

The common answer typically it to force the auto to behave like a manual. When you set lock up in 2nd gear it will continue to shift normally up. But remain locked on the torque converter. This provides better hold back power of the transmission for travelling grades. The other thing is once locked the transmission can't down shift. This can be a bonus too for slick conditions by getting the truck to shift to a high gear and allowing the RPM's to fall low now. Torque is reduced. This is a common trick for manual transmissions but automatic in stock form will tend to down shift and up shift causing possible wheel spin on ice.

I would of considered a different color for the block. Black is impossible to spot leaks on. I will admit it looks nice and clean now. Ready for installing back into the truck.

Anywhere in the cab you wish. Mine is located behind the knee bolster.

Check your toe measurements. As for the center that can be adjusted from the drag link.

Looking at a relay... 85 is to body ground 86 is to the keyed ignition fuse of the cab fuse panel. Get a fuse tap for this. 30 is from the #1 terminal of the strip. 87a is back to the #2 terminal of the strip.

My previous set of tires did that at the end of their life span. I wasn't too worried knowing I'm going to replace them. As my new tire they are wearing straight and true. So I'm not sure even why my previous tires did that too. Same problem strange pull and outside shoulder lugs wore down in a weird pattern.

I did manage to escape for a short time to the woods and take a ATV ride up to Morgan Lake to find out USFS had close the trail off so you can no longer go high enough to see the lake for a photo nor is the trail suitable any longer to get down to the lake with a vehicle. So I've had a bit of fun.

So you do have a APPS sensor issue. Stock ECM will start cutting off boost at 19 to 20 PSI without a module present. Mine is the same way without my Edge Comp. Fuel pressure will have to addressed soon.

Yuk... You are so nice... I got lucky last night and got some much needed sleep. But man I'm sure getting tired of the every day 100+ weather. The river out here is now getting super low. http://water.weather.gov/ahps2/hydrograph.php?wfo=mso&gage=rigi1

Here is the power point I created. 4 Terminal strip. +12V Battery power +12V Ignition Switched Power Panel Lighting (Dimmer) Ground One fused wire comes from the battery (20 Amp Fused). Now once in the cab using a relay I've get trigger for the relay from a fuse. This way there is no load on the stock electrical and no way to cause damage. This relay gets power from terminal #1 and passes the power on terminal #2 when triggered. Since I installed a aftermarket stereo I had the extra lead for the panel lights so I ran it to terminal #3. Terminal #4 is a direct lead from the battery ground. Nothing attaches to the stock other than a trigger from a keyed fuse. Completely isolated and protected.

That should work too.

Back in the day I use to have a old distributor modified for hooking up the drill to it and spinning the oil pump around till oil pressure was up. Then once the engine was installed in the truck I would leave the coil wire off and spin starter till oil pressure was up. The fire up the engine. I also don't use assembly lube except on bearing surfaces. (Like doing a in frame of bearing change). But if you have a way of pre-loading the oil system before starting then you have no need for assembly lube. You could take your old oil pump and modify it as in remove the idler gear and modify it so it can be spun with a drill. At least then the entire engine is loaded with oil.

The dropping of power sound like electronics issue. 99% of the time if a APPS sensor fails you get dead pedal and a P0121, P0122 or P0123 codes. Very rarely does a APPS sensor sneak by without tripping a code. So I would start with error codes and see what pops up. Might be time for the injectors to be pop tested to to verify. What's your boost pressure like? Any boost leaks? Being you got very little smoke I kind of doubt the boost leaks and turbo issues being present. I'm leaning more towards lack of fuel issues. How about fuel pressure? Possibly a bad Edge EZ module? Circuit board corroded?

I tend to grab a can of WD40 or similar and keep the pivot shaft lubed up. I've dealt with enough weird pedal problems on these trucks.

Just went back down to my fire station reloaded my hose bed with second lay of 1" fire line since 1 1/2" is just too heavy for dragging around solo. 1" line is much lighter. Not to mention when your working with limit water resource you need to conserve water till the bigger tenders get on scene.