Mopar1973Man

There is a good reason why the oil change intervals are getting long in the 3rd and 4th Gen truck... Compared to 1st and 2nd gen

Broke the hub. Same thing Southbend Con OFE and never looked back. Holding good enough to break the tires loose in 4th gear.

Tested monthly. Still working as designed.

Never had Chevron in buckets... Now Mobil Delvac Yes. My local oil company in Grangeville sells Mobil Delvac. Chevron no dice. Proof is in the picture... LOL

As for me suggesting I will suggest buying bulk but CI-4 most likely not. Like here it very very hard to come by.

My question is where the engines stock or modified? I can see modified engine with a puppy behind the wheel eating cams and other engine parts. But stock engine with normal human driving I don't see where you'd need it. Would be a good idea for break in process but as a constant use I would say no for a daily driver. But racing another story because its a modified engine and special requirements.

Smarty does not completely only partially remove torque management. As for complete removal look up the RadBox.

No reason for upgrade unless your adding enhancement module and/or injectors. I'm still running stock HX35W turbo without a issue. The only time I see high EGT's is getting stupid with speed (heading toward 100 MPH) or towing up a steep grade with my RV then I've just got to use gearing to compensate. More or less drive like all the big over the road trucks.

I've got no issues with grease-able parts. Typically they get hit with a grease gun every oil change. They trick is to make sure you don't over do the amount of grease on some parts. (Blow the grease out). Like on my sealed parts I've got a grease needle and been capable of reloading the rubber balloon with grease every few years. Still got factory OE tie rods yet.

No restriction. Filter minder is not moving. Yes I've tested it and it working perfectly.

Just back from a long haul today. 240 miles. Weather Average Temperature: 95*F Humidity: 23% Vehicle Speed: 65 MPH IAT 125*F EGT's: 650-700*F Boost: 2-5 PSI Standard BHAF Now that I watch the IAT closely on the way home. I noticed some thing rather odd. Cruising at 65 MPH produced the coolest temperatures. Coasting down grades with exhaust brake off causes the IAT to rise as much as +10*F so I was seeing as much as 135*F coasting at 65 MPH down a 6% grade. Now of course exhaust brake will kick the IAT hard I can see easy 160-170*F IAT temperature rattling against the exhaust brake. Idling I would be right about 140-145*F. Climbing grades with 15-20 PSI of boost the IAT temp either slipped down 2*F or hold steady at 125*F. Personally there isn't much to gain by enclosing the BHAF in a case. Data Provided By: ISSPro EV2's Gauges and ScanGauge II

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/205-p0622-generator-field-not-switching-properly http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/248-p0743-torque-converter-clutch-solenoidtrans-relay-circuits http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/388-p1765-trans-12-volt-supply-relay-cntrl-circuit http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/232-p1694-no-bus-message-received-from-companion-module http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

Injectors should come with new copper shims and o-rings for the injector. You might want to order a set of cross over o-rings just to cover your rear for leaks.

Ok. So I learned something new.

Here is the answer... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/34-engine-system/81-ccd-data-bus

CCD network issues. Using what I know from the 2nd Gens I would say that you need to check for CCD network voltage typically 2.49V and 2.51V reference to body ground.

I do have OFE but I've never heard of the half n' half clutch before.

Double check your trans relay. Double check the blue wire at the alternator for good power. (Feeds the trans).

Like on my 1996 Dodge Ram (Auto) is a vacuum motored cruise. Which is required to have vacuum motor other than that the transmission wouldn't know when to kick down with throttled deeply pulling a grade. Where with a manual you really can't change gears with cruise set so there is no reason for vacuum motor cruise. There is no throttle plate to open or close on a diesel engine. Just need to feed a throttle signal to the ECM. So it fly by wire.

I really don't care to bother with oil sample and testing. By the time I reach 500k miles the truck will be 26 years old and ready to be replaced. I just going to make my journey back from the moon now and be happy. Again there is a lot of over the road truck out there making hundreds of thousands of miles in there life. I'm sure I can do the same without all the oil testing and special lubricants. The other thing is regardless all lubricant have to meet the minimum requirement of the CJ-4 API grade. So at that point all oil are equal till each manufacture adds their special blends of additives to the oils to make it their own brand. The weights are all the same if your running 15W-40 all then have to flow the same at the different temperatures. So it just comes down to the additive packages or the bonus of each brand.

There is a member here goes by the name "Dynamic". He's a transmission rebuilder. He has a lot of good knowledge. While your at it con him into becoming a vendor here too.

He has a point... The PCM does use the speed signal for shift points.

Weather or state has nothing to do with the life span of a battery. Everyone for gets I get the same weather here as Arizona with temperatures as high as 110-115*F this year unofficially Riggins, ID topped out at 117*F. Then in the dead of winter I can pull down to -20*F to -25*F in New Meadows, ID. Still get ten years from a battery. It about proper charging and maintenance.

Too bad it can't be recalibrated properly. (Overhead Idiot)

Auto's yes... Manual Trans maybe. Early was vacuum later was fly by wire. Like my truck is fly by wire and no vacuum.