Mopar1973Man

Return line to the tank. Remove that fitting and the spring and ball are right behind the fitting.

Chevron Delo, Valvoline, Mobil Delvac 15w-40 CJ-4 and have been since 2006-2007 when it was released.

FASS should have a 17 PSI spring... (I think). As for my AirDog here is my solution. Just shim the spring using generic washers. Make sure the ID and OD are of proper size for the FASS body.

You need to get up in the lockup gears of 3rd or 4th and it should lock up. Then with the switch ON it should stall if you come to a stop. So fine a piece of highway and get up to 45-55 MPH. Then you should be able to toggle the switch and see the tach jump up in the OFF position and when you flip ON it should lock and drop RPM's. Then once its locked if you come to a stop it should stall.

The half and half is news to me. I remember reading several post about ceramics being rather rough and tough for towing application. But half and half should be interesting to see the results of.

Now that I seen the part number... Here is what it looks like (61504)

Most of my driving is long haul too. Minimum distance for me is at least 100 miles. Then some days I could be as high as 300-400 miles. Nothing like city folks where they drive 3-5 miles and shut down.

Yeah... He did tow some huge stuff...

$300 is a bit pricey.. Here is where I get mine at... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Big-Honkin-Air-Filter-BHAF-p/bhaf.htm Is there going to be a filter only option? Being I would be tossing out the box for the winter time to get warm for the engine when the temps fall well below ZERO.

2006-2007 was the break point for CI-4 to CJ-4 oils. The post for Cajflynn is dated on 2011. So he was using mostly CJ-4 oils on the tall end. The truck rolled 1.3 million miles when the truck's life ended in a traffic accident. From what I know he sold the truck and the new owner is still running that engine. Now I know AH64ID says that long haul use is easier on a engine than daily driver. How much truth there is in that I don't know.

Here is some manufactures of code readers. Standard Plugin Tools http://www.innova.com/ http://www.scangauge.com/ Bosch OBD 1300 | Automotive Pocket Scanner | Code Reader Bluetooth / WiFi Dongles http://www.obdlink.com/ Hoping to add to this list of different devices.

Kind of like the Black Lions HT's I'm running. But I'll run them year round. http://www.blackliontires.com/tires/BC86.html So far really good wear characteristics. Same reasons I went to those as you did to the truck tires. How about the air dam have you seen any improvement wise in the MPG number?

Old CajFlynn did oil changes every 20k miles, Chevron Delo 15w-40, Fleetguard filters, no synthetics, no additves, and cleared over 1 million miles. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/2526-1000000-miles-yet/page-4 TDR57_Oil.pdf

Get a hold of a member here name "Dynamic" he's a transmission expert.

I'm not sure if the compressor oil is compatible with R12. There is a few article I've read about oils being an issues.

Ceramic clutches typically are not a smooth engaging clutch.

Between turbo differences and tires the numbers are going to be different for most here. Lot of stock turbos around here.

Now all you go to do is upgrade that HY35W turbo for HX35W turbo...

Behind the steering wheel. It what connects the air bag, horn and cruise controls to the rest of the truck. The clock spring is a ribbon cable that give connection to these devices. Basically...

So if its fly by wire now I would check the clock spring for good connection. Disconnect the batteries and wait at least 15 minutes to make it safe. (Air Bags). Now you can unplug the clock spring and ohm test each button position. Each button is going to have different ohm values. The PCM detect the different voltages and understand each one as a different function. So if the clock spring is broken or weak connection then the values are screw up and PCM does nothing.

I expect John to be mostly a pavement queen with those tires.

There was some of the manuals with a vacuum motor and some like mine with fly by wire.

Found it... Stock CR timing... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4243-smarty-udc/

AH64ID posted up a stock timing map and the stock CR engine are way retarded with most timing AFTER TOP DEAD CENTER.

Smarty timing for CR engines. If you catch up with AH64ID there is more he's posted too.