Mopar1973Man

Ok. So how am I doing on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500? It's a 46RE automatic with 3.55 gears? Still go up and down the same roads with it too without eating brake pads up. Now you really got to think harder... When I bought that truck back in 2001 used I've never done a brake job yet. So that includes hauling trailers and firewood too with that truck.

I still kind of chuckle with these brake upgrades. There is a trade off for gaining the braking power which in turn add cost to operation of the truck. 17" tires are typically more expensive than any 16" tire. Then the brake pads themselves aren't much different in price. Considering I'm closing in on 1/4 of million miles and only done 1 brake job so far and travel mountain road with grades that do exceed 16%. I even visit the big cities of Ontario Oregon, Boise Idaho and Lewiston Idaho. So it not like I never see stop and go traffic either. But I will say a exhaust brake is a better upgrade than 3rd Gen brakes IMHO...

Strange... You might want to help out Pepsi71Ocean on how to get better than 16 MPG with Smarty. He calls here now and then and the same story poor fuel mileage with that Smarty no matter what setting he using. Just rolled home after a 100 mile trip today and made 21 MPG so far cruise set for 60 MPH most of it.

... but Edge timing curves are better for efficiency and MPG numbers. That is something that drives me crazy not being able to see timing on these engines.

That's nothing wait till JAG1 asks, "What's this bolt for?" then proceeds to drop it right down the intercooler tube. That cost him a second beer at that rate.

Bill gets the prize!

Sound like you are making a donation eh?

You'll need all 5 wheels to be 17" wheels. There is no way to use a 16" wheel once the brake upgrade is done. Personally I would not mix and match tires sizes on a differential axle because even small difference will put much more work on the spider gears.

1989 to 2002 is strictly Power Steering Fluid. 2003 and up is strictly ATF+4. Don't use ATF in out systems it will cause leaks and seal problems. As for fluid additives none are needed. Just need to change the fluid every 30k miles. I'm at 247k miles now still leak free on the gear box.

All gear lubes smell the same either petroleum or synthetics. Yes that a hub seal going bad and will need to be changed. I just got done doing a front seal on a 1984 Kenworth Water Tender for the fire dept. You'll be surprised how little oil is really needed to make a huge mess of the brakes and hardware.

Not meant to be cruel but to drive the point home.

Personally I like Edge Products I've got no issues with them except for the Juice series. There is a old saying "Don't put all your eggs in one basket." This is what the Juice series does so if the module fails you lose the gauges as well. I would suggest that you look at the Edge Comp which is cheaper in price but you required to have your own gauges. But if you rather do the All In One Solution that fine too. The software is the same for the most part between the Edge Comp and the Edge Juice. Now with the Edge Comp it can be removed very quickly for smog testing and no one would know. But Edge Juice is a bit difficult to get rid of being the gauges and module etc to make disappear.Both Comp and Juice are 120 HP modules. Smarty is a OK programmer for your purpose (+60 HP) but you'll still need to have gauges. But the Smarty has the option of 50% power so you'll easily pass smog testing that way. I would suggest for injectors anything between +50HP to 100HP is fine. But smaller is better for economy sake and less smokey. But for smog reasons I would keep you stock injectors or maybe a RV275 (+40 HP) so the smoke is controlled. I will not even suggest a modified injection pump. Hot Rod or Blue Chip Special X will not work with a module they are only for standalone fuel systems. So you best of keeping the stock injection pump for smog reasons.

(Chuckling) Dorkweed if you want to hear drone let me take you down to Fire Station #3 and pull Engine 3 out and go down to the highway and turn around come back. The drone is so bad in that International truck (Detroit Engine) that it like a super deep bass noise ringing through the cab and you can't hear anything on the radio or the person next to you... The drone drowns them completely out. On our trucks its not as bad but it can be very noticeable if your towing heavy trailers and climbing steep grade at lower speeds.

You can see the ceramic block next to the blower motor.

Could be both in this case. I've seen this truck down at Lindy's shop previously for fuel leak issues. But nothing right at this time it was dry and not leaking.

Congrads on the new family...

Sorry there really isn't any pictures to take. There was a hot spot burned in the case from the inside. Right in the brush area of the cap. The drain tube is burned off from the fire. So I pull the starter and the owner has a lifetime warranty with the local NAPA. He's replaced several starters that I know of. Basically I got to repair two wires for aux fuel pump back by the tank (stock carter) and install the new starter.

I was talking rotting the freeze plug (corrosive failure) not racing and blowing the freeze plug (pressure failure) there is a small difference in worlds. Where most daily drivers don't see those kind of RPM's where some one that is a weekend racer might.

Kind of like unscrewing the oil filter and dumping out the oil filter to change oil in the truck.

How else are you going to learn if you don't ask plenty of questions? Like my knowledge on 2nd Gen 24V is very strong but put me in the CR engine I'm all thumbs. Why you see me asking AH64ID and other about CR stuff how else will I learn being I don't own a CR truck.

For also the 2nd gen trucks too. It needed so when owner forgets to change coolant and it rots out the rear plug that can bolt that on to resolve the issue. But if you change coolant and flush the block out on a regular basis there is no need for such a device.

Like I've said before Diesel World is just like the Muscle Car world of the 1960's. We had big block that produced some serious HP/TQ. Then comes the 70's and start of smog equipment. Really basic just like the VP44 and early CR engines. Then Heavy duty stuff came in the 90s for span. Just like the diesels now with Urea, DPF and EGR and all the sensors. Eventually it will settle down and straighten out again. But in the meantime people will buy what every fits their price range.

Still I need to give the owner options so as for delete kit who carry them? As for programmers which one?

That is part of the problem. The pump only hold maybe a pint where the power steering gear box hold nearly a full quart to itself. Then you have the hydro boost with maybe another pint. So just pulling a few ounces out of the pump did nothing for the other quart and a half of fluid.

I'll stop by the owners place and talk to him about it. Still in all he might still want the option of deleting everything.