Mopar1973Man

I'm sorry...

Here is the solution to that problem here in my guest house...

Let me back track this you might be falling out of the old system and mixed up in the new donation system basically criss-crossed. (Digging...) Well I did find the database got hung up but clean up the mess. More or less because your leaving the old donation system and entering the new system why the hang up.

Here we go started putting together photos and screen shots. So its basically a plug N play type of thing. The only thing you have to watch is when you do this for the first time you'll need to break the plastic out of the back of the gauge carefully to gain access to the USB port. Then you'll notice I've taken a sharpie marker and dotted the back of the gauge so I never forget the position. The red wire should be on the left. So all plugged in you you'll have... For Linux User you need to have a VirtualBox setup with Windows. In my case I have Windows 7. You'll need to install the software and the USB drivers for the gauge. Once you have the software installed make sure to have the gauge plugged in before starting the software. Basically all I've used is the function to set the warning light. You can set it to come on below a limit or come on above a limit. Just toggle the switch on what you want. The far right warning dial is the one you use for that. Make sure you select the right gauge to since there is a very large list of different gauges you can program. There is the setting for the output driver as well but I don't have it yet. Changing panel lighting brightness to your liking. There there is a Advanced Setting switch that you can change the reaction speed of the gauge too. You can set the gauge for test mode which will cause the needle to sweep full span once you plug the gauge back into your truck. As for plugging and unplugging the gauge I've got a handy pair of long nose pilers that are bent. Awesome for reaching behind the gauge and pulling the plug or getting it restarted on the pins. As you'll see the fuel pressure gauge now lights up because of no fuel pressure. The other gauges are off because they need to cross a high limit.

Wow! Your heavy... Typical empty truck 4440 Front, 3260 Rear, 7700 Total truck weight. Now I've always notice when I scale with the RV trailer on I'm about 40 pounds lighter on the front axle. Which isn't anything big. But with my RV I'm right at 8,800 truck weight.

Not exactly yet... I need to produce a article page on it yet. Then maybe the rent me idea might work...

There should be a setting for the boost it should show correctly on the newer version. My old version 1 show a weird number like 28.6 PSIa then only goes to 37.7 PSIa. But mine does work correctly on other vehicles. As for sea level atmosphere it should be 14.7 PSIa. Here is more on that... http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-altitude-pressure-d_462.html As for the P0234 code its not a MAP sensor issue but a wastegate issue. The wastegate is most likely rusted shut. As for the wild swings in temperature I'm going to bet that the face of the radiator is plugged up.

One step beyond Smarty reach... http://www.isspro.com/page.php?page=News http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-11375-isspro-ev2-programmable-output-driver.aspx I like poking at Bill its soooo much fun...

Everything in one little plastic bag.

First off before I start I have to say "Thank you" to Aden at GOS Performance for sending me the R82003 Programming cable for ISSPro EV2 gauges. So now I know I got to create a write up for this but... Wow! This is way cool. All ISSPro EV2 gauges have a red warning light in the bottom. The light is programmable to any setting you wish. So like for example I'll do the pyrometer gauge. We all tend to use 1,200 for a breaking point. So on the software you simply set the pyrometer to set the light if above 1200. Hit you program button and takes about 3-5 seconds to flash the gauge. Now after programming my limits the light react normally now. So like at key on (not running) the fuel pressure light is on but boost and pyro are off. My settings are... Boost 35-60 PSI light ON Fuel pressure 0-13 PSI light ON Pyrometer 1200-1600 light ON Now I have the same features as Edge Juice or Smarty Touch without being wrapped up in a module. Now there is another kit I might jump into which you can program a relay on the back of the gauge to turn things on or off depending on settings. Now this would take it over the top of what Edge Juice or Smarty could do... Even better yet... Still able to do all this on a Linux PC... VirtualBox and Windows 7...

Oh I'm curious of how many make the grade to Bosch standards.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/478-adding-an-image-to-a-post-on-mopar1973man-com As for the cetane chart. Demo using local values. (Winter and summer)

Don't come to my area of Idaho gasoline price are typically 10 to 20 cents higher now vs. diesel price. As for noise reduction. I've re-installed my silencer ring in the turbo, added a 3" straight through muffler, then adjust the valve lash to 0.008 (intake) and 0.018 (exhaust). Run 2 cycle oil which reduces the knock sound levels. I know of some people pulling the carpet up and adding sound deadening material to the firewall and the floor board. Truly my 24V is fairly quiet compared to most others. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/36-fuel-system/71-2-cycle-oil-engine-noise-reduction But it would be awesome to create a article for a quiet Dodge Cummins and how to get there.

Absolutely. I would love to add more to the site. Just remember the Biodiesel is higher in cetane so it lower in BTU's so typically there is a small loss to MPG while using Biodiesel fuels.

I could of made your old Dodge quiet really easy... Quite the shame you gave up on it.

Well if its going to be a Potato Bar it has to be in Idaho so tell me when and where. I meet you just to have that victory drink together.

Ummm... So what did you replace it with? Sad to hear you gave up on it.

I wish I could magically beam over there and do it. I would even go the extra step stop at a Home Depot grab foam pipe insulation and cover the hi side pipe with foam to guard it from the BHAF too. Not to mention the clips for the high side pipe tend to be flaky so you end up using zip ties to hold it in place again. @Ronman I should get the replacement spring for the locking collar and show you replacement ones. Here is a hi side fitting for R12 to R134a conversions. Then my little bag of tricks...

Last year I barely sold a case. This year I've eaten over 3 cases. Then next year I might not have much. You never know.

Dave you'll just have to make another trip to the moon. (238k, 476k, 714k, 952k) So 238k to the moon, 476k miles to get back home. Then 714k miles to make your second visit to the moon. Then pull in for the final parking at home at 952k miles...

It's always better to be armed with some information than blindly guessing.

OMG?!?! Not equipped to handle it? All you do is change the high side pipe. It would take me less than 1/2 hour to do. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/A-C-Orifice-Tube/_/R-TEM282530_0191915605

Yeah it did. But I just sent it home for now. I'm looking at roughly $300 to $350 for just a compressor. Not horrid but I'm going to research a bit more and see what I can find.

The last Dodge Ram I did a seal kit on was about $15 bucks from NAPA. As for my project Ford here in the thread sad to say... I've hit the wall. Completed a 1 hour vacuum test and was holding prefect vacuum. Then added the first can of freon but no compressor. Looked at the compressor plug and its destroyed. The compressor clutch broke free and spun at some point destroying the plug.

I'm closing in on 250k miles.