Mopar1973Man

I would figure there suction air leak some where now. Drawing air into the fuel system on the suction side of the pump. Because if it was a pressure side like you would fuel dripping from the truck.

Are you using a adjustable elbow? I've got one here that does not close enough to allow me to bulid boost over 20-22 PSI period. So to verify if the elbow is the cause I would disconnect the wastegate line and plug it. Then go for test drive and watch you boost pressure it might really climb now. While pressurizing the system you should be able to see the wastegate movement.

Welcome to the family. Make sure to ask plenty of questions. Don't be affraid of asking "Dumb" question because the only way people learn is by asking questions.

Unknown... That is one of the reason I created the article database to capture information and keep it from diappearing into the black hole of a MySQL server or haveing other selectively deleting what they don't like. Man that was back in the days of battling "Mind set" people that were ignorant of what was going on also I was stumbling and learning to from the mistakes of others digging for information. But seeing that thread bring back memories. www.frontiernet.net/~mopar1973man/2_cycle_oil.htm <- The first Mopar1973Man Web Page Address.

More I think about this the more I'm wanting to say it time to consider twins if you planning on large injectors. That would clean it up. But in the same token with CARB and EPA rules to play with I would say drop a drop injectors sizes just enough to keep it cleaned up on a low setting.

OMG...

P0216 code is not a exactly a fuel pressure problem but fuel lubrcity problem. The timing piston has seized and no longer responding in a timely manner. As suggested I wouldn't go over 20 PSI there is no need for that much pressure. As for my setup I'm idling at 17 PSI and WOT I fall to 15 PSI even with a 9 year old AirDog 150.

I had a friend with a roof mounted gun rack and every time we went offroad (off pavement) to go to the ranch or after firewood someone would end up with a gun in the lap, up side the head, etc. That idea really didn't last too long. Then he got a rear window gun rack and no problems from there. Nick's idea is good but I've got a cargo tray there and full to the bottom of the seat. The only firearm I typically carry is my 9mm pistol. Rarely do I pull out a rifle... Not much on hunting anymore...

Being its only the one bearing that is damaged the I would have to say it most likely debris introduced during oil change time. That one bearing was the one that took the debris. Being that all other bearing are untouched I wouldn't think it oil or pressure related. Kind of like how I destroyed a good turbo.

Like for CR engine BBI injectors are the best for power smoke control. Just like Coyotekiller said there is a lot behindmaking a low smoke big injector. But still in all with large injectors you going to need a fuel managment system that will provide enough fuel lag to allow the turbo to spool and then let go.

Not bad... About $50 bucks for a new drum with studs.

Don't use the log splitter. I'm sure you will do damage to something. How do I know... I've done the same thing and ended up crushing the part accidentally. 20 ton log splitter can do serious damage really quick. So I suggest since neither one of us have the press it back to the ol' BFH.

Eric does some in house. Which mine are done in house. Call and ask about it.

Me personally I did Vulcan Performance +50HP...

Exactly. I growing tired of the whistling whine from the turbo.

I'm actually looking for a silencer ring for my HX35... I'm looking for quiet performance. Loud is easy...

Normal I do both truck and trailers at 120 ft/lbs.

Well... Now like I said 2 cycle oil replaces the lost lubricity. As for theory the pour point of 2 cycle oil typically is lower than pour point of diesel fuel so there is some aid given but how much is unknown. That is based on how low the existing fuel is pour point which most don't know. Then the amount of 2 cycle oil required for reduction is unknown. Like most winterized diesel is right around -20*F across the nation. Most snowmobile 2 cycle oil is rated at -40*F to -50*F pour point. As for me I have done the research locally and know what my fuel station are selling and quality of fuel. Even with -20*F to -25*F winters I've never added any thing but 2 cycle oil. I don't use any other winter conditioner. Cetane booster rob the BTU value and most winterized diesel like shown above have plenty of cetane so adding more is not going to help. As for pour point or gelling issues I check on my local suppliers and found some keep pour point depressants on hand for sudden changes in weather. How else did I get the picture? I did my homework. Some stations post there pour point numbers. So if the pour point and cetane is already above specs then no winterized treatment is required just need to deal with the lubricity problem.

I think 2006-2007... I just did a search for that original thread but it lost to the MySQL database black hole. I can't seem to find that monster thread that was over 150 pages long.

I would love to but I got no where to install it at... I would have to pour a concrete pad and put it outside which would make it a seasonal lift because I sure hate turning wrenches in 0*F weather and snow blowing.

Than also document the labor and repair of the RV. Then contact the law enforcement. That would end that problem quickly.

That's the point how many people have a two post lift in there garage and have the skills to do this? I've got the skill but don't have the lift... I'll keep my old Dodge Thank You...

Personally, 5 speed is easier. Start in 2nd Gear and only shift 4 times. 6 Speed is only adding the gear at 3rd. Final Gears are the same... NV4500 5th = 0.75 NV6500 6th = 0.73 Still the same. NV4500 4th = 1:1 NV5600 5th = 1:1 Next down... Now it changed. NV4500 3rd = 1.67 NV5600 4th = 1.36 3rd gear on my truck is use at 25 MPH.

200:1 ratio. Talk to Dorkweed here the one that started the idea. I'm the that did the study work.

You'll most likely have to remove the hub and look but I'm pretty sure you can beat the studs out with a large hammer.