Mopar1973Man

??? I guess we need to create a article of this.

If ordering a radiator I would order one for a automatic transmission so it had the proper cooler fittings. The best suggestion is to pull the radiator and take it down to a radiator shop and have it pressure tested. Then you'll see exactly where its leaking.

Yeah... Angus not to confuse you but White Lightning (Ryan) converted to a p-pump on his truck and they tend to like more pressure. On a VP44 truck 14-20 PSI is optimal pressure.

That's my problem. I've got the exhaust brake hanging off the back of the turbo.

That's an damaged compressor wheel. So in your case I would inspect the air filter and just replace it. As for the oil I still say to pop test the injectors to be sure.

Also be aware of your offset and width of rim will change the diameter and profile of the tires so it can impact odometer and speedometer accuracy. It will be small but its there like my truck with the change of wheels and tire size I've got a 0.5 MPH offset. Small but its there and can't be calculated but it can be measured with a GPS.

Sad part is this thread has so much good information about engine building but will most likely get lost in time. I wish you guys would start creating even small article about this. Like the piston differences that is so cool to see this kind of comparing of parts and how they work.

Well the turbo is destroyed like mine was. The compressor wheel was destroyed by a hose clamp. So mine sucked in that debris of the damaged blades. So in you case I'm not going to say the sky is falling but its time to investigate a bit more and figure out what happening. Oil dilution is cause by failed injectors. That can be checked by doing a pop test of thee injectors. Not a turbo issue. But debris issues could cause a compression issue (blowby). So compression test would verify that problem. Since the injectors have to be pulled to be pop tested you could do a compression test too. Another thought is wastegate issues? (sticking open)

It was solid debris that struck the compressor blades. So there was either debris inside your filter or a hole has been rubbed into the filter.

$1000 dollars is a lot of cash to toss down a turbo that may break your tune. So very common for people to upgrade turbos and not have the right combo of fuel. Then turns the truck into a smokey bomb that is nearly impossible to drive the city. I'd love to upgrade again my limits are because of the exhaust brake mounts to the back of the turbo.

Fuel contamination? Wrong oil used? I'd consider changing again yourself. I know it not cheap to dump 3 gallons of oil out. But the insurance is priceless. If it's fuel contamination you should smell diesel fuel in the oil. Most likely a injector issue if so. So you would have to resolve the injector(s) issue first. Very rare have I heard of engine oil entering the power steering pump and visa versa. This is why I asked about the P/S fluid and its color. It might be pushing oil into the P/S pump but I'm not sure how?

MAX A/C, A/C , Bilevel, Floor-DEF and DEF are all A/C modes. Floor and Vent are NOT A/C modes. Overheating... Cooling system is rather simple. Drain and pull the radiator. Look at the face of the radiator. Is it it all plugged up with oil and grime? (Crankcase vent issue). With radiator drained out looking into the tanks of the radiator is the core tube all corroded up with scale? (Coolant failure) Pull your thermostat and replace. Use either a Cummins (high dollar) or NAPA thermostats. Keep the 190*F. Do not use a 180*F.

Smaller tires do help quite a bit in steering and handling. Also reduce the amount of wear and fatigue on steering parts.

If the fluid is black then its oil pressure getting into the Power Steering system. If the fluid is normal honey color then the power steering fluid might be just old needing changed.

Typically I run the engine for short spans of time to flush the steering gear box and the hydro boost out of old fluid. But I normally pull the line from the back of the power steering pump and cap the pump nipple to keep fluid in the pump. Then route the return line to a waste bucket. Fire up the engine. Then while it running I bump the steering wheel left to right to open the power valve. This only takes a few seconds to pump out. So shut down will happen rather fast. Then reload and tab the brakes on the next run this flushes the hydro boost out. The I hook back up the return line and re-fill. Typically cost about 3-4 quarts of fluid to get it flushed out.

Added the pic for ya...

??? I'll have to look at which hose I'm pulling off my pump but I always got flow of fluid start starting the engine. I'm due to change mine so I could get out there and get it done...

I would of done the diagnostic when it occurred it might be a intermittent correction issue or broken wire. So now you got to wait again till it occurs again.

Last time I ordered a vacuum pump rebuild it was $13 buck at Cummins. Just remember the 12V tappet cover will not have the bracket for the ECM to hang. Catch Can for crankcase vent? I would skip that personally. 12V tappet covers don't really slobber much at all. Even my 24V crankcase tube barely slobbers.

That's sucks...

I've always just pulled the line at the power steering pump and cap the nipple. Then routed that hose to a waste bucket. Then flushed the system.

Like mine are the same way and clean them up with Scotchbrite pads being its only plastic your not going to cut into the metal. Just make sure to rinse off the debris before installing.

I running a 3 micron on the AirDog 150 and a 10 micron in the stock can. Still holding 15-17 PSI fuel pressure with no issues even in the dead of winter.

I've seen several of them seize the fan clutch be locked 24/7 like that.

So what's the downside to the changing the compressor wheel and machine work?