Mopar1973Man

I think that might be my mistake the Cummins kit is very un-clear on which way the seal goes.

Basically the input, intermediate, and output shafts are all billet shafts. Modified valve body. Multi-disc torque converter and a change of stall speed. There is other things done too... I would talk to Dynamic here on the site he also does custom transmissions. I'm trying to get him as a vendor...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/271-p0073-inlet-air-temp-sensor-voltage-too-high-diesel http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/274-p0107-inlet-air-pressure-sensor-voltage-too-low-diesel http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/330-p0541-low-voltage-on-the-1-intake-air-heater-relay Looks like you have some diagnostic work to do now... I would still just verify and clear the codes with the OBDII reader and see what happens if they return or not.

Boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge.

Error codes?

Don't feel bad mine is weeping a little oil now and going to re-do the seal again in the near future.

Bill maybe you should stop by and trim my apple trees and take it all home with you.

You have to remember the coolant pressure on the head gasket is about 40 PSI. I've found it about a year ago where a member on CF hooked up a pressure gauge and showed the pressures at the head. It varied of course but the max pressure I remember seeing is 35-40 PSI. This is pressure created by the water pump.

I've got a small smoker here still in the box an need to eventually pull it out and set it up. That look delicious...

Damn... That one expensive fence post tamper... I bet you could get Ford or Chevy cam for that job.

True but you have to increase pressure to increase volume. At what point do you risk blowing the front seal out? This is unknown but I've seen seal blow out as low as 25 PSI and I've seen people claim that the VP44 can hold 40-45 PSI without blowing out.

There is no power at this house the diesel generator is the only power. Yeah there is few homes out here without city power because it too expensive to pay for the power pole to be installed.

Ever since I quit working for Lindy I came home and made up my mind to work for myself and do my own automotive repair shop. So like right now air conditioning repairs is my hot seller (pun intended...). Which I've got a agreement with the local Chevron station to handle their A/C work. But like last week I had a oil change on a stationary Kabota Generator. I never know what might get chucked at me. So chances of spotting me on the highway between Whitebird to New Meadows is really good. Like yesterday I spent over 9 hours working on a 4,000 gallon Kenworth water tender for the Fire Dept and had more or less a Fire Chief / Captain's meeting discussing the future of the fire dept till 9pm last night. Like in the near future you might spot me again in Ontario, OR.

Heck... The 2nd... I might of been on my way up to get R12 to R134a conversion kit for a 1990 Cadillac I was working on. Not to mention I was getting ready to leave and head to Catfish Junction that very next day on Wednesday.

Couple of thing to be aware of. I would check the alternator AC voltage (AC noise level) and be aware that the APPS sensor might be wearing out if so then the P0121, P0122 or P0123 might come in the near future. All make sure to remember disconnecting the battery only does one thing in dumps the calibration limits of the APPS sensor. It does not reset error codes or reboot the computers (ECM, PCM, or VP44).

Turbo will have a high pitch whine like when you start reaching 30-35 PSI.

As far as I know of basic hand tools should be the only thing you'll need. I would be careful with exhaust hardware being most of it will be rusted. As for gasket most suggest Cummins gaskets. Bolts are fine studs you could as a upgrade but adds cost to the project. From the people I've talked to its rather straight forward on doing a head gasket. TFaoro would be excellent man to talk to since he's doing the full tear down.

Last week. Now that a different story...

Only to a point... The supply is on the right and the return is on the left. So how much volume do you think you can return though such a small hole?

Couldn't of been me Tuesday... Tuesday my truck was at home parked in the yard under the tree all day. I drove the 1996 Dodge to Rapid River and picked up a 2000 Dodge Cummins to rebuild a A/C system. On Monday I was in New Meadows, ID dropping off a part to a owner at 4:30pm (16:30) so it wasn't me.

Studs are not required till boost pressures are exceeding 40-45 PSI. It won't prevent coolant damage on head gaskets. I currently touch 36-37 PSI on stock HX35 and no head studs.

Basically communication is done over two wires. Typically it has roughly 2.5 volts per side vs. ground. So now check thee network wires for proper voltage. If shorted to ground, +5 volts or +12 volts then the communication bus will fail.

Sorry you'll have to replace the gasket. Studs will not fix a corrosive coolant damage gasket. Way too many people assume coolant will last forever and not need to be flushed.

??? ??? So which day? Must of been Monday. That was the only day I was that direction.

I like the older inline Isuzu diesel engines. Those thing would never die...