Mopar1973Man

If your offroad at all you might consider over the top method. No, you can't use rubber hose for the over the top method, it will kink shut and blow the seals out. Basically use 1/2" PVC pipe and route it over the top and down the back side of the engine. Make sure your down pipe is not too long.

Actually I could build carbon up with my light weight running. But towing I'm able to exceed 1,000*F fairly regular climbing grade and carbon will burn at 1,000*F plus.

Could you show a picture of the special tools for the transmission rebuild?

Exactly... 20-21 MPG is what I see at 65 MPH. But it's true a 10 MPH drop will push it even higher. Typically if I hold back to 55 MPH I see a easy 24-25 MPG but pyrometer temps drop to about 500-550*F at 55 MPH.

Slow down. Optimal MPG is had at around 55-60 MPH. Beyond that the numbers start to degrade as you travel faster. Boost is going to be low and drive pressure is going to be low so intakes, coolers and pipes are not going to affect the EGT's nor the MPG's. At this point its all about speed since there is no boost pressure or drive pressure.

Correct. Has no tie to the actual fuel gauge sender. But for it to work correctly you must fill the tank every time. I used mine for 3 months to gauge fuel because my fuel gauge was funky too. Once its calibrated leave the ScanGauge II alone during your fill ups. You'll find going from station to station and pump to pump the gallons number will vary.

Like my conversation with Pepsi over the phone the big problem is who is re-manufacturing alternators. Like NAPA might have several places scattered around the US who knows if they hold the same quality standards from place to place. As for diode failure its from heat created by high current flow lke during extended grid heater use.

Might want to toss a pin on the map..

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has been sitting in the garage un-started for over a month now. Not even worried about it...

Be aware the ripple test must be done on the alternator not the batteries.

Majority of all oil sold today is CJ-4 API grade, There is a rare once in awhile that you'll find CI-4 CI-4+ oil for sale. Basically the CJ-4 is low emission oil as Wild & Free points out. Here is a document TDR did... TDR57_Oil.pdf

May I ask why? Why only 5 minutes and then shut down?

I'd be really interested if I had a extra funds to buy parts with. I'd love to pick up some things off that rig...

Comes down to price for me... Because of how remote I am from most things, even local purchases, more times out of ten are delayed because even NAPA needs to ship in stuff. Local NAPA is OK for some stuff but other stuff like diesel parts I highly suggest you look else where. That better be a Dragon Fire Pump... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Remfd/_/R-NECXTD2H302_0498246612 There better be gold inside... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Fuel-Shut-Off-Solenoid/_/R-CRB22355_0327881296

I've also order parts through RockAuto and had good results too. I typically get clients parts off of RockAuto when the local part store gets extreme.

Go here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?app=core&module=usercp You should be able to change you signature and avatar. Welcome to the family...

Yes they do... Get the MX series it supports iPhone. https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/smart-phone/obdlink-mxwf.html

No.. Its high volt code for disconnect. The signal line goes high to +5V when open because there is no signal ground. Low volt is when the signal line is pinch to ground and there is 0 volts because of the short.

Yes. It does read and clear codes too...

I really do sit back and scratch my head about drilled or slotted rotors. Like your picture about in a small amount of time with a premium brake pads it would eat the rotor to those slots and and bonus would be gone. As for drilled and slotted through the rotor most have issues with heat eventually cracking the rotors. Which the drilling and slots make it weaker. So is there any bonus when the life span could be shorten? 248k miles OEM rotors still going.

Also my thought too. Hence why you clear the codes and see what comes back. The reason why shop are not allowed to clear codes is because some areas have emissions testing and people would just clear the codes go test and pass with minor problems. So to keep the EPA off there tail they are not permitted to clear code. As a truck owner you can buy a tool and do it your self.

Codes will self erase in 40 warm up cycles but that is a long time to wait. I highly suggest you just buy a bluetooth dongle and use you phone. Really cheap (less $100) and works very well. http://www.obdlink.com/lxbt/ ScanGauge II is good but not good enough for $160... The only thing I like about ScanGauge II is the trip computer. http://www.scangauge.com/

Now I'll suggest something to you. I've seen a gent in Louisiana take a cab off with front clip and carefully set it back down on the rear window. Then proceeded to under coat the entire cab. Then had color match bedliner from the moulding down bottom of the rocker panels. Let it sit and cure good for about a week and then lift the cab back up and mount to the frame. I wish I had the pictures yet but it was beautiful done truck when done never have a rust issue will full under coating of the cab and bedliner on the rocker panels.

Too high... Alternator is failed. it should be 0.01 to 0.02 normally full loaded. Anything over 0.05 will cause mild issues. Anything over 0.10 is damaging...

Here is what I use in my set and work on nearly everything. Works great for tight places and against firewalls. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/A-C-Fuel-Line-Quick-Disconnect-Sets/_/R-SER774031_0006544316