Mopar1973Man

Turbo won't do any good unless you drive with your foot in the carpet. Like my truck cruising at 55 MPH I'm 1-2 PSI of boost may 3-4 PSI boost at 65 MPH. Bigger turbo will just add more lag time and more smoke. What you need is to limit the fuel till the turbo lights up. So technically I'm running 170 HP injector but actually running 120 HP tuner on top of 50hp injectors. But since the tuner gives me fuel vs. boost management I can control smoke levels. When injector nozzle are created they can produce the hole all different ways. Some methods leave the holes rather jagged and rough which makes for poor atomization like Edge Jammers are known for being really smoky injectors. Where other injectors cost more because the holes are honed out and smoothed so the spray pattern is better quality. Now if you have a boost gauge I would monitor at the point that boost hits and it clears up. This would give you a clue to what setting you would need to use for a module to clean up the smoke. As for internal damage to the pintle would be caused from dirt fuel and/or poor quality filers. If there is no debris in the fuel it should wear out technically unless you using a lot of cetane booster and injector cleaners. Here is a basic view of our injectors... The only thing about that picture is our injectors get fuel from the side of the body not the top. 12V are this way...

Better the atomization the cleaner the burn. The bigger the droplets get the smokier and dirty the burn becomes. Less efficiency. The whole idea is to push as much fuel as you can in fog like atomization. But if the injector start to squirt in a stream then it turns out more smoky.

No. Because you good the way your are without noise filter. Do NOT add extra grounds, tin foil or noise filters these are all band-aids to bigger issues and just cover up the problem but never fix it. You can try the APPS sensor but I would check charging AC voltage too. Typically I don't start suggesting parts till some diagnostics are done.

More... http://bgr.com/2015/06/04/paypal-user-agreement-robocalls-autotext-opt-out/

As for the Robocalls I can weed those out rather easy. I just peek at the CallerID and if its a number that is PRIVATE, UNKNOWN, 800, etc. I don't bother picking it up. Like my cell phone (TracFone) calls me when my plan is ready to terminate because of lack of time. No biggy I get the message still on the answer machine but I don't have to listen to it instantly. Sad to say no matter how much the main stream media wants claim that everything is going great... I hate to say it's not. If so why would large companies like Paypal resort to changes like this in hopes of promoting more business or income?

Did you watch the video I did?

Funny I just got back from that road.

It's not the turbo which is going to make a cleaner burn but proper use of fuel management vs. boost. Like with stock injectors I could run 5x5 on the Edge Comp. Now with the +50hp injectors I've got to back down to 5x3 to control smoke. The difference is 3rd sublevel is 67% of stock fuel till 10 pounds of boost. Where 5th sublevel is full fuel at 0 boost. There is other factors like IAT temperatures which will make it smoke more. Colder IAT typically is smoker where warmer air is cleaner burning.

Man... That's what the site uses for collecting the donations...

I'm towing either my 31' foot Jayco Eagle RV or my BigTex 70TV. Yesterday I broke my passenger side mirror again trying to re-adjust the clips-on I got. So I took the driver side and move to the passenger side. The passenger side is my limited viewing side so it works out fine. Matter of fact just rolled in the door just minutes ago.

What you describing is a "Limited pedal" and which could be a ECM failing from excess alternator noise. Do you have a noise filter on the PCM?

(Server Error) is the site mod trying to go back and read the page title and change it to the page title. Something about that server doesn't agree.

Here you go... http://www.eclipse2017.org/2017/path_through_the_US.htm

Both valid ways of handling a issue might be tougher pinching a tube shut if its on the front side low on the face. Now if it high on the face and you can get to it easy sure pinch it off. But do remember if you don't get it the first time there is no soldering it close since its a aluminium it would be way different if it was old school brass. This is why mention after getting a new radiator to make sure to flush the block out and replace the thermostat. Because we are coming back around to the problem at hand why did the tube spring a leak? More than likely the coolant is corrosive and ate the tube thin. Also during the flush you'll get a very large amount of sealant back out.

Hence what I said above. Most people dump the tube instantly in the radiator causing this problem. If poured in SLOWLY and allowed to mix that problem will not occur. A matter of fact I've got a tube in the 96 Dodge Ram with no problems just like I said pour it in slowly and allow it to mix with the coolant. Best on a hot engine be be careful of opening the cap that you don't get sprayed with hot coolant. Another way to get around this is dump the tube in a gallon jug of 50/50 mix and shake then add the jug to the system.

Can you explain this... What is not so friendly about it?

There isn't much made in America anymore...

Oscilloscope would be the best way. Digital Volt meter is a OK way to test. The only thing I would change is test at the alternator not the battery.

We've got lots of bees and other inserts to pollinate trees and such here.

RockAuto has them for fair price.

If in a pinch I would warm up the truck and slowly pour a tube of aluma-seal and allow it to mix as the coolant is flowing in that side. It will allow you to buy time till you can get it fixed properly. Just remember when you do change the radiator to flush the block and change the thermostat at the same time.

I didn't sign or agree to any software license during the purchase of my vehicle or at the initial key on of the vehicle.

Not careful JoeCool you might have me up there to buy your bumper or build on for me...

Like myself I purchased a MP3 Kenwood Stereo, Garmin 42LM GPS but no camera. I really don't need another toy.

I would do like Buzzin' said is solder and shrink tube all wiring back together and get rid of the crimps. That would get you 90% good but still could be issues with data lines of CCD network and CAN Bus connections. They don't tolerate voltage changes or weak connection very well. So if you stop over in the article database there wiring diagrams for the engine wiring then at least you can get that fixed back up. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring