Mopar1973Man

I would imagine that cetane boosters would aid in cleaning up the smoke. Very true. You need to show readiness for OBD testing. I know my ScanGauge II shows this information during code scanning with either NOT READY or READY. Each vehicle might be a bit different in getting a READY status. Another way is to hitch up a trailer and get some nice and hot pyrometer temperatures going to cook the exhaust system clean also cook the injectors clean as well. Might help clean up some of the smoking issues.

From what I understand about the conversion you need... Rotors, wheels, tires, calipers, caliper mounts and the new pads. But I've never done one nor do I have a write up on it.

The only non-Cummins thermostat that I would even try is a NAPA which I've had really good luck with.

The only thing about Optilube I'm not happy with is it increases cetane and reduces BTU. Also its not locally available and requires to be shipped UPS ground which adds cost to it.

The biggest thing is the visual inspection looking for modification. Loooking for wire taps, other plug in mods like my high idle and MPG fooler would cause a fail. So the first thing is to make the truck visually stock looking. This means in the cab too. So if you got a Edge Juice module hanging on the A-pillar you most likely going to fail. You might want to also check for any existing error codes even if the check engine light is OFF. There is some code that will not trip a light but might impact the ability of making a passing grade. This doesn't mean erasing the codes and hoping they stay away. This means reading the codes writing them down. Then erase the codes. Then go for a nice 10-20 mile ride to get full warmed up and allow the truck go through cycle. Then check the codes again and deal with the second set if any. The first set will give you a clue to intermittent issues that might still give problems later. But be sure that all codes are clear and repaired before testing. Might be also a good thing to do a tune up fo changing fuel and air filters. It couldn't hurt.

I guess that might not even hit the classified ads...

Be careful with the Edge EZ they are known to leak water inside the case of the unit and eat the circuit board. The only difference between the Edge Comp and Edge EZ is the Edge Comp is mounted inside the cab also has 1 extra wire (pump tap). Now if you want to tap the pump you can do this with a Stealth Plate. This makes it super easy for smog time take 5 screws out remove the plate and put the stock cover back on. No wire tap. Edge Comp will give in the cab control where the Edge EZ has jumper in the box. Both Edge Comp and EZ both hook to the MAP sensor and the CANBUS. But the Edge Comp will give 25 different setting for smoke control and fuel/timing vs. only 3 setting of the EZ. Edge EZ setting... As you can see you have to remove the end cap to set it. http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/pics/data/500/22074EZ_jumpers.jpg Edge Comp in the cab adjustment.

Agreed 180*F is too cold. Should be 190*F thermostat. Also like Bill said how about the face of the radiator? I just had a Ford truck here that had really poor A/C cooling. After taking the time and blowing all the bugs out with a 3,000 PSI power washer the A/C is super cold now. You might have the same issue just packed with dirt and bugs. Might have to pull the radiator to get a good cleaning.

Lets say I found out how different size tire can rip apart a 1972 dodge Power Wagon front axle. Very costly mistake... If the 2 tire sizes are on a differential axle there will be damage. But if its a solid axle or front axle of 2WD then your safe. Well kind of... It still not suggested because the steering will be affected.

Ok. So how am I doing on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500? It's a 46RE automatic with 3.55 gears? Still go up and down the same roads with it too without eating brake pads up. Now you really got to think harder... When I bought that truck back in 2001 used I've never done a brake job yet. So that includes hauling trailers and firewood too with that truck.

I still kind of chuckle with these brake upgrades. There is a trade off for gaining the braking power which in turn add cost to operation of the truck. 17" tires are typically more expensive than any 16" tire. Then the brake pads themselves aren't much different in price. Considering I'm closing in on 1/4 of million miles and only done 1 brake job so far and travel mountain road with grades that do exceed 16%. I even visit the big cities of Ontario Oregon, Boise Idaho and Lewiston Idaho. So it not like I never see stop and go traffic either. But I will say a exhaust brake is a better upgrade than 3rd Gen brakes IMHO...

Strange... You might want to help out Pepsi71Ocean on how to get better than 16 MPG with Smarty. He calls here now and then and the same story poor fuel mileage with that Smarty no matter what setting he using. Just rolled home after a 100 mile trip today and made 21 MPG so far cruise set for 60 MPH most of it.

... but Edge timing curves are better for efficiency and MPG numbers. That is something that drives me crazy not being able to see timing on these engines.

That's nothing wait till JAG1 asks, "What's this bolt for?" then proceeds to drop it right down the intercooler tube. That cost him a second beer at that rate.

Bill gets the prize!

Sound like you are making a donation eh?

You'll need all 5 wheels to be 17" wheels. There is no way to use a 16" wheel once the brake upgrade is done. Personally I would not mix and match tires sizes on a differential axle because even small difference will put much more work on the spider gears.

1989 to 2002 is strictly Power Steering Fluid. 2003 and up is strictly ATF+4. Don't use ATF in out systems it will cause leaks and seal problems. As for fluid additives none are needed. Just need to change the fluid every 30k miles. I'm at 247k miles now still leak free on the gear box.

All gear lubes smell the same either petroleum or synthetics. Yes that a hub seal going bad and will need to be changed. I just got done doing a front seal on a 1984 Kenworth Water Tender for the fire dept. You'll be surprised how little oil is really needed to make a huge mess of the brakes and hardware.

Not meant to be cruel but to drive the point home.

Personally I like Edge Products I've got no issues with them except for the Juice series. There is a old saying "Don't put all your eggs in one basket." This is what the Juice series does so if the module fails you lose the gauges as well. I would suggest that you look at the Edge Comp which is cheaper in price but you required to have your own gauges. But if you rather do the All In One Solution that fine too. The software is the same for the most part between the Edge Comp and the Edge Juice. Now with the Edge Comp it can be removed very quickly for smog testing and no one would know. But Edge Juice is a bit difficult to get rid of being the gauges and module etc to make disappear.Both Comp and Juice are 120 HP modules. Smarty is a OK programmer for your purpose (+60 HP) but you'll still need to have gauges. But the Smarty has the option of 50% power so you'll easily pass smog testing that way. I would suggest for injectors anything between +50HP to 100HP is fine. But smaller is better for economy sake and less smokey. But for smog reasons I would keep you stock injectors or maybe a RV275 (+40 HP) so the smoke is controlled. I will not even suggest a modified injection pump. Hot Rod or Blue Chip Special X will not work with a module they are only for standalone fuel systems. So you best of keeping the stock injection pump for smog reasons.

(Chuckling) Dorkweed if you want to hear drone let me take you down to Fire Station #3 and pull Engine 3 out and go down to the highway and turn around come back. The drone is so bad in that International truck (Detroit Engine) that it like a super deep bass noise ringing through the cab and you can't hear anything on the radio or the person next to you... The drone drowns them completely out. On our trucks its not as bad but it can be very noticeable if your towing heavy trailers and climbing steep grade at lower speeds.

You can see the ceramic block next to the blower motor.

Could be both in this case. I've seen this truck down at Lindy's shop previously for fuel leak issues. But nothing right at this time it was dry and not leaking.

Congrads on the new family...