Mopar1973Man

Normal I do both truck and trailers at 120 ft/lbs.

Well... Now like I said 2 cycle oil replaces the lost lubricity. As for theory the pour point of 2 cycle oil typically is lower than pour point of diesel fuel so there is some aid given but how much is unknown. That is based on how low the existing fuel is pour point which most don't know. Then the amount of 2 cycle oil required for reduction is unknown. Like most winterized diesel is right around -20*F across the nation. Most snowmobile 2 cycle oil is rated at -40*F to -50*F pour point. As for me I have done the research locally and know what my fuel station are selling and quality of fuel. Even with -20*F to -25*F winters I've never added any thing but 2 cycle oil. I don't use any other winter conditioner. Cetane booster rob the BTU value and most winterized diesel like shown above have plenty of cetane so adding more is not going to help. As for pour point or gelling issues I check on my local suppliers and found some keep pour point depressants on hand for sudden changes in weather. How else did I get the picture? I did my homework. Some stations post there pour point numbers. So if the pour point and cetane is already above specs then no winterized treatment is required just need to deal with the lubricity problem.

I think 2006-2007... I just did a search for that original thread but it lost to the MySQL database black hole. I can't seem to find that monster thread that was over 150 pages long.

I would love to but I got no where to install it at... I would have to pour a concrete pad and put it outside which would make it a seasonal lift because I sure hate turning wrenches in 0*F weather and snow blowing.

Than also document the labor and repair of the RV. Then contact the law enforcement. That would end that problem quickly.

That's the point how many people have a two post lift in there garage and have the skills to do this? I've got the skill but don't have the lift... I'll keep my old Dodge Thank You...

Personally, 5 speed is easier. Start in 2nd Gear and only shift 4 times. 6 Speed is only adding the gear at 3rd. Final Gears are the same... NV4500 5th = 0.75 NV6500 6th = 0.73 Still the same. NV4500 4th = 1:1 NV5600 5th = 1:1 Next down... Now it changed. NV4500 3rd = 1.67 NV5600 4th = 1.36 3rd gear on my truck is use at 25 MPH.

200:1 ratio. Talk to Dorkweed here the one that started the idea. I'm the that did the study work.

You'll most likely have to remove the hub and look but I'm pretty sure you can beat the studs out with a large hammer.

2 Cycle Oil replaces the lubricity lost in the ULSD. It also tends to reduce cetane down and increase BTU content. Increasing cetane make the MPG numbers lower this is the big reason why winter time MPG fall is because BTU content is gone. Dark green summer and light green is winter Bosch requirements for lubricity. Remember US Diesel is ~520 HFRR score.

Thing is over on the RV forum I moderate on the Ford trucks (diesel and gas) and Ford Ecoboost are the most popular truck out there. Funny part is Dodge Cummins truck are the least most popular truck in the RV forums. Next is Chevy just below the Ford. Now not to bash on Ford solely I can nit pick about Dodge, Chevy and Ford all the same. Each have their issues but I have to draw the line at lifting the body off to do a head gasket. Dodge isn't too much better now with the newer 6.7L EGR cooler, DPF, etc...

Mostly smog equipment. Here have slice of this... I though VP44 replacements where bad check this out...

Like Mike's post above the dealer and shop like to modify a good electrical system because of a issue. You got to ask yourself the question how come the truck ran 10-12 years now without this mods and why does it need it now? This why I tell people to pull that stuff back out and see the problem is still there and masked by the cheap band-aid. Kind of like you JAG1 you doctor covers over the problem will a pill. Why not fix the actual problem?

First off the only ground you need to worry about is the passenger side ground cable. That is the master ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44. The rest of the body grounds are all secondary circuits like lights ,horn, etc. Never adjust the voltage to the tag value. Always leave it BELOW that value by at least 0.1 volts and use the set screws. If the APPS doesn't have a tag it most likely a Timbo's APPS and there is no voltage to set. Shift issues is a alternator problem. Do not add grounds or wires to the PCM they are NOT needed. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/37-apps-sensor-voltage-adjustment http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/39-timbos-apps-installing http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues

I've only reach 27.2 MPG once. But typically I see... 16-18 MPG @ 65 MPH 19-21 MPG @ 60 MPH 22-24 MPG @ 55 MPH Now towing the RV... 11-12 MPG @ 60 MPH 12-14 MPG @ 55 MPH

Look at the passenger side cable. Drive side has nothing but body grounds.

Copy and paste this... www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGnEuGwvXqU

No. It to just pass EPA / CARB regulations. Just look at even Wild & Free's post about the DPF and EGR delete even the VW's have a good amount of junk piled on.

Looks like you had a debris issue. Really possibly when filling the oil filter during oil change. Anything that gets into that center holes while you pouring oil in the filter will be instantly sent to the oil cooling jets and/or the bearings. Possibly a oil filter went into bypass mode because of over extending oil changes? Cheap oil filter?

You got to listen to the audio...

OK. Show me the heads? Even with the body off I still can't see the heads. This is a Ford 6.4L

Your is functional... But just above the box... Your signature may contain: • Up to 1 images • Images up to 468 x 60 pixels • Up to 1 URLs • Up to 1 lines

Very impressive! Wow! You need to make that write up. I want to build one soon!

Ford's have to lift the body off to just do any head work. There isn't enough room under the hood to do it. So the body has to be lifted to access the engine.

Where is the injector picture?