Mopar1973Man

Multifunction switch? Clock spring?

Where is the A/C relay located at? Where is the evaporator sensor located? I can test clutch plug for power tomorrow.

For some reason the plug in is dragging you around I'll look into it. I put the plugin back in debug mode and see what is going wrong. Hang in there gang.

I yanked out all that nasty matting on the cowl. Just for fun. I just got done doing valve adjustment on a old 70's Datsun engine tonight.

I'm not sure... I'll check tomorrow. Secret. Use only a six sided socket and strike the ratchet handle with the palm of your hand to loosen. Most people toss out the bleed cover caps so now dirt and water get into the bleeder screws and rust the threads up. I make sure to have all the bleeder screw covered with caps.

Sigh... I think I'm going to end up referring this job to another shop. Without the books or information its just too crazy for guessing. I can double check fuses in the panels and see if I find anything blown or what not. Weird part is there is no B codes that I found.

I've got a 3/4" impact gun... I most likely don't have enough air to drive it.

I've had my fair share of repairs. But not that bad that you always have the hood open fixing things.

I want to say 2011 but I didn't write it down. (Dumb bunny). I didn't have any means at the time to check fuses. The cover is unmarked so knowing what fuse does what you even up pull them all. I was wondering if this is part of that total integrated power module? I'm lacking in 6.7L information. Anyone got a book by chance?

According to Eric at Vulcan Performance the full AirDog 100 and 150 have been good pumps. Its the Raptor's and AirDog 165 with the issues.

Quality lift pump are critical to keeping the Vp44 happy.

If I was going to pull a engine that far I would highly consider fresh bearings. Why not you got the pan off.

I've got a 6.7L Ram Cummins in Riggins, ID. The owner is complaining of lack of A/C or cool air. I showed up today and check the freon pressure and there is at least 70 PSI in the system now. When you turn on the A/C the fan and vent controls work fine. The catch is the compressor is not coming on at all. I checked for error codes and there is some codes for the oxygen sensor but nothing A/C related. I was wondering if any one could give me a hand with finding this issue?

Valid points as always. How about the OEM 2 piece vs. one piece shaft?

I can see the aluminium driveshaft for efficiency reasons. Less rotational mass. At the same token I can see Bill's comment too if you into heavy pulling / towing it might be best to stay with steel. Also depends on the size of tires your running and how much HP/TQ your producing.

Like this... Googled 52123161AC

I would gamble a wild guess at the door is starting to sag a bit and there is a small gap in the weather strip now. Check the hinges by open they door and lifting from the lower edge. The door should not rock up and down. If it does it would explain a bit of it. As the hinges wear the weather seal isn't as tight. Like on my 1996 Dodge Ram the passenger door is just starting to do this a little bit and is going to require a small amount of adjustment.

Like talkIng to Eric @ Vulcan performance Raptors tend to have the problems but full AirDog 100 or 150 seem to be fine.

Just my preference. There is Autometer, ISSPro, Westach, Glow Shift, etc. The reason I went for the EV2's was two fold. I wanted to figure out why all these people are having issues with electric gauges and figure out a solution. Second part was I learned that EV2's are programmable so you can set your alarm limits in the gauge to lit a red warning light or hook up a relay to trigger a device like maybe a fan or similar. That is the only reason I jumped for the EV2's. But as for pricing I would consider EV's (mechanical gauges). I originally came from DiPricol's which went out of business years ago. Another quality gauge but no where to be found now. Glowshift is consider a very low budget gauge. Still functional but there has been issues with use of the gauge. Once again the problems are based around the electric senders which I'm studying currently. Westach is a very good quality mechanical gauge but not very stylish. Lot of people like them because they are nearly bulletproof. Autometer is another well known gauge. But can be a bit pricey for the different styles.

Main listing of error codes http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins The P1690 code. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

Here is my 24V write up. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/121-valve-lash-adjustment-cummins Here is the common rail write up. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/53-engine-system/120-valve-adjustment-and-verification Basically both the same.

Intake manifold and exhaust will not change anything. People producing 500+ HP see a difference with those items. That's because of torque management. Once you break over 25 MPH the torque management is lifted and the power comes on full. Hit one of the vendors and tell them you coming from Mopar1973Man.Com and I'm pretty sure they will give a small discount. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/140-vendors-dealers/ EGT are directly relational to fuel consumed and load placed on the truck. If the proper gear and road speeds are used then the EGT's should be low and MPG should be high.

bjytech is right. The 10mm wrench will loosen the nut (maybe) like a few I've worked on I've had to use sockets and one I used a screwdriver and hammer to tap the nut to loosen. Make sure you snug that nut back up again. It might be the governor spring getting weak with age why the idle is sagging down.

How about bad alternator feeding too much AC noise into the system? Check out this video.

Anything that can and will reduce pressure from normal. Like I've had a a single manifold bolt pop out 6mm thread but 10mm head. That was enough to drop from 30 PSI to a max of 8 PSI. But then another leak I had was a loose intercooler boot it would hiss with a test cap but never leaked enough to reduce my max boost pressure abilities. Technically no one. But depends how you look at it. Smarty allows for fuel only or fuel and timing. But no fuel vs boost control. Edge doesn't give fuel and timing separate but does give boost vs fuel control. TST is strictly fuel only. Quadzilla is another wonderful box with even more controls possible but currently I'm unsure of the state of manufacture. I know DAP owns the company now. Why down? Assuming pop pressure. Higher pop pressure make for better atomization. Unless they changed nozzles and reduced the flow. So which is it? As for the VP44 there is a certain amount of variable posed by the Special X which I can't answer for. Timing, PSG programming differences, internal hardware differences, etc. The only thing I could suggest at this time before you spend money on parts is see if you can get a hold of known good stock VP44 and swap it in and see if there is a change of smoke amount. If so then for sure you can point the finger at the Special X as a possible cause and then consider you replacement then. I really do hate to suggest replacing high dollar parts without proof of a problem or failure of said part. Not to poke at anyone... But as for me I have a really hard time with the smoke and mirror the entire Bosch VP44 market has kept up for all these years. I'm personally tired of the hiding specs and data on the VP44. Now like P7100 or VE pumps you can find documents and specs on those all day long. Now VP44... "Oh we can't tell you that its a trade secret". I'm uncovering data slowly and finding documents and information and posting what I do find. Kind of a personal challenge. One day I will know what software is in the PSG unit top.