Mopar1973Man

As far as I know you need to remove the hub and rotor as unit then using a press or hammer remove all the studs. Since your studs are not damaged I would opt for having the studs pressed out to prevent damaging them.

From what I've heard those overdrive units do stress the main transmission. Kind of like oversized tires on 3.55 gears it still adds stress to the driveline but in your case to the input shaft.

So my gear box has some surface rust on it big deal. Power steering gear box not leaking either...

VCO are cleaner but limited in power. SAC are more powerful but can prove to be rather dirty and smokey. I say tap the pump first. Because no matter what setting you using you still limited to level 1 fuel wise till you tap the wire. So all you doing is modify the timing and what small amount of the CAN Bus signal that it. Once you tap that pump you'll jump upwards of 120 HP out of just the module then you'll need way less injectors. Just ask JAG1 about the trip to McCall. In 4th gear my truck will spin the tires loose on dry pavement. All I got is Edge Comp (5x3), stock HX35W turbo and +50HP injectors.

As for mine I'm super picky about leaks. I've changed my oil 3k ago and I'm still full but there is a wet cross members so my leak is very very minor but just not happy with the idea rolling on the creeper and getting arm full of engine oil.

I ran straight 3" pipe for years and always got comments on how quiet the cab was. Now I'm running a straight through 3" NAPA tractor muffler and its even quieter. Now that I got my silencer ring back into the turbo the only noise now is the Cummins Rattle. Back when I first got the truck I wasn't bother by a bit of towing noise for 10-30 miles. Now with the RV and hauling hundreds of miles that gets old really quick. Turbo noise and exhaust noise is getting just a bit too much.

I'll have to warn you Me78569 and Cowboy this thread is gain popularity and you guy better get one put together and running on a truck. I got a few guys that now been asking when its for sale. I just had one last night that's P-pumping a 6.7L and look for this turbo to put on the truck.

Donated members can download the Dodge Factory Service Manuals. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/category/8-factory-service-manuals/

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I think that might be my mistake the Cummins kit is very un-clear on which way the seal goes.

Basically the input, intermediate, and output shafts are all billet shafts. Modified valve body. Multi-disc torque converter and a change of stall speed. There is other things done too... I would talk to Dynamic here on the site he also does custom transmissions. I'm trying to get him as a vendor...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/271-p0073-inlet-air-temp-sensor-voltage-too-high-diesel http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/274-p0107-inlet-air-pressure-sensor-voltage-too-low-diesel http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/330-p0541-low-voltage-on-the-1-intake-air-heater-relay Looks like you have some diagnostic work to do now... I would still just verify and clear the codes with the OBDII reader and see what happens if they return or not.

Boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge.

Error codes?

Don't feel bad mine is weeping a little oil now and going to re-do the seal again in the near future.

Bill maybe you should stop by and trim my apple trees and take it all home with you.

You have to remember the coolant pressure on the head gasket is about 40 PSI. I've found it about a year ago where a member on CF hooked up a pressure gauge and showed the pressures at the head. It varied of course but the max pressure I remember seeing is 35-40 PSI. This is pressure created by the water pump.

I've got a small smoker here still in the box an need to eventually pull it out and set it up. That look delicious...

Damn... That one expensive fence post tamper... I bet you could get Ford or Chevy cam for that job.

True but you have to increase pressure to increase volume. At what point do you risk blowing the front seal out? This is unknown but I've seen seal blow out as low as 25 PSI and I've seen people claim that the VP44 can hold 40-45 PSI without blowing out.

There is no power at this house the diesel generator is the only power. Yeah there is few homes out here without city power because it too expensive to pay for the power pole to be installed.

Ever since I quit working for Lindy I came home and made up my mind to work for myself and do my own automotive repair shop. So like right now air conditioning repairs is my hot seller (pun intended...). Which I've got a agreement with the local Chevron station to handle their A/C work. But like last week I had a oil change on a stationary Kabota Generator. I never know what might get chucked at me. So chances of spotting me on the highway between Whitebird to New Meadows is really good. Like yesterday I spent over 9 hours working on a 4,000 gallon Kenworth water tender for the Fire Dept and had more or less a Fire Chief / Captain's meeting discussing the future of the fire dept till 9pm last night. Like in the near future you might spot me again in Ontario, OR.

Heck... The 2nd... I might of been on my way up to get R12 to R134a conversion kit for a 1990 Cadillac I was working on. Not to mention I was getting ready to leave and head to Catfish Junction that very next day on Wednesday.

Couple of thing to be aware of. I would check the alternator AC voltage (AC noise level) and be aware that the APPS sensor might be wearing out if so then the P0121, P0122 or P0123 might come in the near future. All make sure to remember disconnecting the battery only does one thing in dumps the calibration limits of the APPS sensor. It does not reset error codes or reboot the computers (ECM, PCM, or VP44).

Turbo will have a high pitch whine like when you start reaching 30-35 PSI.