Mopar1973Man

Last year I barely sold a case. This year I've eaten over 3 cases. Then next year I might not have much. You never know.

Dave you'll just have to make another trip to the moon. (238k, 476k, 714k, 952k) So 238k to the moon, 476k miles to get back home. Then 714k miles to make your second visit to the moon. Then pull in for the final parking at home at 952k miles...

It's always better to be armed with some information than blindly guessing.

OMG?!?! Not equipped to handle it? All you do is change the high side pipe. It would take me less than 1/2 hour to do. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/A-C-Orifice-Tube/_/R-TEM282530_0191915605

Yeah it did. But I just sent it home for now. I'm looking at roughly $300 to $350 for just a compressor. Not horrid but I'm going to research a bit more and see what I can find.

The last Dodge Ram I did a seal kit on was about $15 bucks from NAPA. As for my project Ford here in the thread sad to say... I've hit the wall. Completed a 1 hour vacuum test and was holding prefect vacuum. Then added the first can of freon but no compressor. Looked at the compressor plug and its destroyed. The compressor clutch broke free and spun at some point destroying the plug.

I'm closing in on 250k miles.

Or towed behind his when it comes to my place. I might to take payment in parts.

My A/C work is spreading like wild fire. I done a job for a local gent he happen to tell his neighbor about it. So now I've got a 1993 Ford 7.3L that I'm resealing being its already been converted to R134a by another shop but it didn't hold freon. So I just happen to have the seal kit for his truck in stock.

Yes I would get matching ECM and PCM for the right year with a manual transmission. Yes, there is software differences on both PCM and ECM. Also get the wiring loom too. Like converting over to manual there is no vacuum cruise anymore in the later series. It now fly by wire cruise. I'd be game to doing a conversion. The problem is if we are missing anything its a long haul to get stuff.

LOL... You had fun.

Yes. Edge Comp, Edge Juice, Quadzilla, Power Puck, Etc. Nope just 3 wires.

That didn't come out right. (Sorry...) But I've seen where some people are book smart but that it. If it beyond the book they are lost. Yeah I could of waited for the rain but didn't. I got in and got busy. Call me crazy...

Bill I know got lucky.... There was another gent in the northern states and was travelling into Canada when his extended hose setup kinked shut and the blow by pressure got high enough to blow the tappet gasket out and leave him stranded. He did a similar thing of running in the frame but his happen to kink shut. This is the only reason to avoid using hose of any type and stayed with rigid pipe. Sucked to have to tell this gent he's going to have to call a tow truck and be towed to a local town to have the gasket replaced.

The documents are up but the staff hasn't done the check to see if the files were good. After that just need to approve each file. I'm biased with Linux and most everything works for me I need the others to check with Windows.

I personally thing part of that problem is the coolant turning corrosive and eating seals and bearings premature. I've proved that time and time again up here with locals. They assume as long as the coolant isn't rusty colored its still good. But like all the systems I've drained out the last gallon typically comes out rusty. Really shocker to show a truck owner that the rust settles to the bottom and typically not seen. So like most I see locally drain off the coolant in a clean bucket, change the pump and pour the same coolant right back in. Good reason why there is such low out comes for some. Then great out come for others like myself. I'm already due for a coolant change now...

PEX plumbing is rated typically 100 PSI. But all RV manufacture highly suggest regulating down to 40 PSI as a typically pressure. Like here at home I know my well cycles out at 60 PSI and in just about 30 PSI. I normally do not use a regulator at home. But in all RV park I normally use a cheap pressure regulator. I always put the regulator at the faucet side of the hose. This way your hose is protected from high pressures as well. As for the low point drain you might double check them. Like mine have a really hard push to get them to lock in place to seal.

In the same token the service shops out there see the word diesel and automatically increase prices on labor. Then act like it takes forever to do a job or order parts. My intro to this was when my injection pump failed (P0216 @ 50k miles). A ASE certified Dodge Diesel Tech took 8 hours to change one VP44. Thank gawd it was under warranty. Like myself I'm NOT ASE certified but I can change a VP44 in a open field in a rain storm in just under 2 hours. Go figure.

CANBUS connector. This is the Cummins diagnostic port or the port you hook your enhancement module too.

Like myself I charge $60 a hour for mechanic time.

Wash it all down and let the engine dry and check again.

Everything can't be easy. We have to have trials and difficult times toss in once in awhile. How else are we suppose to grow and learn to handle problems. This topic happens to rather timely being I'm going through my own "difficult times" with the Fire Dept and SAR's. Strange how the Good Lord only gives you only as much as you can handle.

My OEM gave up the ghost at about 180k miles and the diode were still passing but the bearings failed. I think I had a Bosch the case was larger and the new one in ND which appears smaller size case.

I can change injectors in a matter of about 1 hour. O-rings can be install during that time. This is why I no longer rely on any shop but do all my own work.

Still waiting for mine to wear out eventually. Knowing my luck I'll end up doing a rebuild or refreshing the engine because it will all fall apart at the last second.