Mopar1973Man

Actually it's 40 warm up cycles and it will self erase.

Here here... That why people are now creating there own controllers and such like Mega-Squirt and Arduino products. Even though my Step-Dad was a retiree from General Motors I never bought a GM product. Even when it can to buying my current truck GM's prices where still higher than Dodge's. As what I will do with my truck and future truck I will continue to do what I'm doing. I will always modify my vehicle to be what I want it to be. Period. If it requires modification of controller software or data I will do it.

Kind of like these...

I can go on about things I heard and witnessed but still in all most doctors today are not all that bright nor do you feel cared for.

Be aware of washable media filters. A lot of people jump on that bandwagon and then fall prey to the dusted engines. Washable filter are pricey but there is no way of knowing how many times you can wash the filter and reuse it before it starting to fail and pass dust into your engine. This is why I will suggest staying to normal paper element if possible. At least you know when the filter is dirty you throw the entire filter and dirt in the trash. Another trick is spray the mouth of the air box with WD40 with light film. If a filter is failing to seal it will leave a dust in the film of WD40.

There was s a article in the the 24V area about engine swaps and what is required to do it.

Hit the "More Reply Options" button on the right and then the next screen will show up.

Ok. Here is how to post pictures. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/478-adding-an-image-to-a-post-on-mopar1973man-com (Thanks Me78569)

You better listen to AH64ID.. I'm backing out. I'll keep my suggestions to myself.

I seriously doubt that any failure will occur. Like anything you never assemble a bearing dry into anything always pre-lube them with assembly grease. The gear lube will wash out the grease in due time. I've done it that way for years and never had a bearing failure yet.

Just need to measure from pin 1 to 3. That is your 5.0 volts. That is correct. Now disconnect both the ECM and the MAP sensor and ohm from end to end. That will validate the wiring to be good. If you get 0-5 ohms your good anything above that is a failed wire. Now while they are disconnected yet. Now ohm from MAP sensor to ground. All 3 should turn out infinite ohms which proves that nothing is shorted to ground. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/146-p0112-intake-air-temp-sensor-voltage-low

Thanks for coming forward. Also let me know if you would like build articles for 3rd Gen's.

You need a OBDII code reader of some sort. Do NOT disconnect the battery for erasing code it does absolutely NOTHING! Most all vendors sell the Timbo's apps... But you can get it directly from Timbo for cheaper typically.

Battery disconnect does nothing. All you need to do is turn your key OFF to reset the computers. Even time you turn the key ON the computers do a fresh reboot. This tells me the ECM does indeed have internal issues and should consider re-flashing the ECM with true stock software and seeing if that fixes it. If not the on-board flash PROM is damaged and not holding data properly.

Time to set the Smarty to HALF POWER...

Come on Joe keep going... 238,000 miles to the Moon.

I called the owner on Saturday and referred her to Alpine Automotive in McCall, ID. Sorry this one is out of my hands I can admit defeat very easy and not ashamed of it either.

Not bad at all. Getting into the 20's with 3rd Gen is a good thing. Congrads!

P0602 is a Smarty thing. Now if the error code comes back while stock then you might want to read over the error code. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/203-p0602-ecm-fueling-calibration

The whole idea was to filter off the people that haven't done anything for over 365 days. This is to find the email account that people let go of create bounced email. Of course since the email account is gone there is no way to get in contact with the person. So to prevent the site from being blacklisted I need a way of filter off the inactive users to a different group so email can flow to the proper people without creating a blacklist issues. So just coming on the site and hanging out in the general conversation area is fine. As long as the account stays active.

Here you go... How to install a Timbo's APPS http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/39-timbos-apps-installing Diagnose your P0122. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

It still can be a ABS module issue or sensor wiring issues. So Verify your wiring again. If it ohms out correctly then the ABS module is to blame. Also ohm the sensors out and see if they are working properly.

Bingo! Just having the page present on the site as a 3rd Gen Smarty touch now gain search engine power. As for submitting. I submit a sitemap every time there is a post made here on the site. So Google and all search engine are very aware of what is posted and what needs to be indexed. Even the ROBOT.TXT file has a line added to point to the sitemap so any non-standard web spider or bot will know without any doubt there is a sitemap and what they can and cannot crawl. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/robots.txt

So... You can explain how you hid your wiring. How you setup your setting for best operation. But the fact there is a page about Smarty Touch would gain travel here quickly.

The biggest part of electric gauges is to remote mount the senders off the engine. Fuel pressure much so. Boost can be installed on the engine. It's not the vibration that kills the senders its the water hammer pulses that kill the fuel pressure senders. So with what I've got set up I've got roughly 5 foot of tubing for both sender to allow pulsations to fade and fuel pressure has a snubber at the tap source not at the sender. Mechanical gauges are simply the easiest and most durable gauge out there. Electrics are fairly easy to install but come with issues of there own. But being I read hundreds if not thousands of post of gauges and failures I compiled a method of install and went forward. So far gauges are working extremely well and going to get the ISSPro programming software next and set my warning lights for the gauges. Still in all the price is higher but modular design so if a gauge fails I only got to replace 1 gauge.