Mopar1973Man

There isn't much made in America anymore...

Oscilloscope would be the best way. Digital Volt meter is a OK way to test. The only thing I would change is test at the alternator not the battery.

We've got lots of bees and other inserts to pollinate trees and such here.

RockAuto has them for fair price.

If in a pinch I would warm up the truck and slowly pour a tube of aluma-seal and allow it to mix as the coolant is flowing in that side. It will allow you to buy time till you can get it fixed properly. Just remember when you do change the radiator to flush the block and change the thermostat at the same time.

I didn't sign or agree to any software license during the purchase of my vehicle or at the initial key on of the vehicle.

Not careful JoeCool you might have me up there to buy your bumper or build on for me...

Like myself I purchased a MP3 Kenwood Stereo, Garmin 42LM GPS but no camera. I really don't need another toy.

I would do like Buzzin' said is solder and shrink tube all wiring back together and get rid of the crimps. That would get you 90% good but still could be issues with data lines of CCD network and CAN Bus connections. They don't tolerate voltage changes or weak connection very well. So if you stop over in the article database there wiring diagrams for the engine wiring then at least you can get that fixed back up. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/87-dodge-ram-turbo-cummins-24-valve-engine-wiring

You need to get a new wiring harness. Like like there has been to much human tinkering and there is for sure wiring issues.

You've got plenty... Napa, Mevotech, AC Delco, Quick Steer, Mopar, Centric, Raybestos, etc. There is lots of other options from other vendors. MOOG is not the same as it was years ago. I think I've got Raybestos ball joints in mine IIRC. But also remember that Dodge didn't use MOOG during the assembly of the truck they used the absolute CHEAPEST joints they could buy at the time. The funny part is they lasted till 348k miles not bad. Mine barely made 180k and failed.

Too much stuff to hack up. You would have to add filters to every device ECM, PCM, ABS, AirBag, Central Timer, Overhead... Anything with a electronic circuit would require a noise filter. So instead of hacking up a good electrical system its just easier to replace 1 alternator. 2 bolts, 1 nut, unplug a wire and un-do a belt.

That's the problem. Everyone is band-aiding the problem. Get rid of the source of the noise and you won't have to modify the electrical. Like one gent I had on the phone told me of all the extra ground wires, tin foil, and filters added to the electrical system. I told him he had a false positive fix. So he would understand it I told him to remove all the junk, tin foil, grounds, and filters. Now test drove and all kind of problems where going wrong. Shifting issues mostly. So now I told him to unhook the alternator. Problem gone. So he replace the alternator problem is fixed without all the filters, ground, tin foil, etc. Thing is if your creating noise from the alternator and use these band-aids then the noise is still there but the isn't a strong just limited. Here is the alternator diodes which 0.3 AC volts. I'm sorry to say tin foil, grounds and filter will not fix a burned up diode pack.

Kind of goes back to the thread about Copyrighting the ECM software so Joe Public can't rewrite the software for tuning. Also sell device design for deleting I thought was part of the whole problem too. K & S IIRC was slapped with a fine for creating EGR deletes. I'm trying to school up on some of the newer stuff from you and understand the limitations and what is working and not...

I stand corrected but I was close...

You found a chunk of metal in the pan in a previous post so what was that from? Did you ever find you knock issue?

ECM has absolutely nothing to to do with the electrical or the back up lights. I've got a twin set of 100w bulbs hanging on my axle. Then got four 100w bulb hang on the front bumper. The only difference is the light are relay feed. So as for ECM failure the only way I know to kill a ECM is feed it lots of AC noise from a failed alternator. Heat not even a issue. My truck see the summer heat of 105-115*F every year. Heavy towing and the whole bit. Then goes into the freezer ever year and ran at -20*F to -30*F and still no electronic failures at all. But I'm very quick to check the function of the alternator and be sure the AC noise level is low enough.

I would of left all the Moog back on the parts counter and taken another brand...

Got a pair your willing to loan out... I'm without...

Question? We all seen the EPA come down on the diesel part manufactures for creating delete kits for diesel trucks. Then like now they are back in production again. What's the deal? I thought this kind of stuff was illegal to buy any more?

Klein Bottle Computer http://www.kleinbottlecomputer.com/collections/all-services/products/dodge-1 There is another gent here that found a spot in Florida...

I thought the model number specified the gears... 48RE = 4 Speed, 800 foot pound of torque (flywheel), R ???, Electronic.

I've got no problem but mine was coming in at 2am and pissin' the dog off. Of course you can't see the darn bear at night in the dark.

Man there is days I'm glad I've not updated to the newer diesel with DPF and EGR systems. So are you going to write up your adventures of deleting all this stuff? I'm really curious of what you have to do to get over this problem.

So what exactly is the difference from old school OD OFF and the new tow haul mode?