Mopar1973Man

Not a very good site... When you select 2008 Dodge Ram 5.9L and it returns a Duramax EGR cooler? They don't even list a 5.9L delete...

May I ask what your going to use it on? If you considering the truck for long term storage I would consider pulling the IOD fuse out. This will keep the Ignition Off Draw from drawing the batteries down. I've done that in the past when I was using the 1996 Dodge more. That's why they made that funky fuse clip for that so you could pull the fuse without losing it. Then I just typically use a normal battery charger and I can just plug in morning and unplug at night. Once a week. Another way to cheat this you can put the charger on a lamp timer so it runs for say an half an hour or hour every day. But as for continuous battery tender we have them on the fire trucks. The bad part is if your not paying attention to electrolytes ANY battery tender is capable of boiling a battery dry. Once a cell plate is exposed to air it ruined. This why I tend to use the timer idea vs. continuous.

I invested in making some changes for the office area. I got us a two computer desk measures 72" x 24". The desk has a cord tray under the table top to keep all the cords and cables from being seen hanging. Then stopped by Home Depot and picked up a sheet of 1/4" plywood. Then JAG1 had a can of gunstock red stain left over from his project. That was just enough in that can to stain the sheet of plywood. The sheet of plywood is $25 for a 4' x 8' piece where chair pads at roughly $45 a piece at Staples. So now with the new desk I can have my indoor veggie garden started.

The problem is the extrenal regulator is prone to over charging the batteries. The PCM regulator has the battery temp sensor and is capable of adjusting the voltage based on battery temperature so cold batteries like extra voltage where hot batteries like less voltage to stay cooler. The external regulator bases it value off of under hood temperature which is OK. But if you got a battery with a cell issues starting the batteries tend to boil over throwing acid all over the fenders and hood. This is a reason why I don't like that mod but it does work in a pinch.

I've also got a job for a 2001 Dodge truck by a local rancher that has just had a starter fire. When I inspected the truck tonight the truck does indeed still start and run but watching closely I started see white smoke from the starter again. After crawling on my back and looking up there is something damage in the brush plate and shorted out. Which then allowed it to ignite the oil and fuel slobbered on the engine. There is a few 3rd party wires that are burnt but nothing system critical. So when I get back down to doing the job I'll take my camera along and pop some pictures. Safety sake I left the truck with the batteries disconnected till I get back.

Ok Gang. I've got a local rancher that has had his fill of DPF and EGR problems. He's got a 2008 truck he just barely purchased used. Using it to tend to the herd of cows and travelling dirt roads and slow travel is plugging up the DPF filter constantly. So he's ask if I would do the delete for him. Now I need to pull the knowledge from other in the forum for part suppliers and what part I need for this project. What tuner that works the best for this application. I'm all eyes...

Optimal gearing would place you around 1,800 to 2,000 at highway speed for best results. Another way is the best gear ratio will produce lower EGT's. But the wrong ratio either too low or too high will increase EGT's.

As far as I know you need to remove the hub and rotor as unit then using a press or hammer remove all the studs. Since your studs are not damaged I would opt for having the studs pressed out to prevent damaging them.

From what I've heard those overdrive units do stress the main transmission. Kind of like oversized tires on 3.55 gears it still adds stress to the driveline but in your case to the input shaft.

So my gear box has some surface rust on it big deal. Power steering gear box not leaking either...

VCO are cleaner but limited in power. SAC are more powerful but can prove to be rather dirty and smokey. I say tap the pump first. Because no matter what setting you using you still limited to level 1 fuel wise till you tap the wire. So all you doing is modify the timing and what small amount of the CAN Bus signal that it. Once you tap that pump you'll jump upwards of 120 HP out of just the module then you'll need way less injectors. Just ask JAG1 about the trip to McCall. In 4th gear my truck will spin the tires loose on dry pavement. All I got is Edge Comp (5x3), stock HX35W turbo and +50HP injectors.

As for mine I'm super picky about leaks. I've changed my oil 3k ago and I'm still full but there is a wet cross members so my leak is very very minor but just not happy with the idea rolling on the creeper and getting arm full of engine oil.

I ran straight 3" pipe for years and always got comments on how quiet the cab was. Now I'm running a straight through 3" NAPA tractor muffler and its even quieter. Now that I got my silencer ring back into the turbo the only noise now is the Cummins Rattle. Back when I first got the truck I wasn't bother by a bit of towing noise for 10-30 miles. Now with the RV and hauling hundreds of miles that gets old really quick. Turbo noise and exhaust noise is getting just a bit too much.

I'll have to warn you Me78569 and Cowboy this thread is gain popularity and you guy better get one put together and running on a truck. I got a few guys that now been asking when its for sale. I just had one last night that's P-pumping a 6.7L and look for this turbo to put on the truck.

Donated members can download the Dodge Factory Service Manuals. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/category/8-factory-service-manuals/

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I think that might be my mistake the Cummins kit is very un-clear on which way the seal goes.

Basically the input, intermediate, and output shafts are all billet shafts. Modified valve body. Multi-disc torque converter and a change of stall speed. There is other things done too... I would talk to Dynamic here on the site he also does custom transmissions. I'm trying to get him as a vendor...

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/271-p0073-inlet-air-temp-sensor-voltage-too-high-diesel http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/274-p0107-inlet-air-pressure-sensor-voltage-too-low-diesel http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/60-obdii-error-codes/330-p0541-low-voltage-on-the-1-intake-air-heater-relay Looks like you have some diagnostic work to do now... I would still just verify and clear the codes with the OBDII reader and see what happens if they return or not.

Boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge.

Error codes?

Don't feel bad mine is weeping a little oil now and going to re-do the seal again in the near future.

Bill maybe you should stop by and trim my apple trees and take it all home with you.

You have to remember the coolant pressure on the head gasket is about 40 PSI. I've found it about a year ago where a member on CF hooked up a pressure gauge and showed the pressures at the head. It varied of course but the max pressure I remember seeing is 35-40 PSI. This is pressure created by the water pump.

I've got a small smoker here still in the box an need to eventually pull it out and set it up. That look delicious...