Mopar1973Man

You should have price of $70 to $100 for a fan clutch.

Just replace the fan clutch. Nothing else can be done to fix it.

Come on gang post up a picture of who you are. Might be a good time to update your avatar and profile. Come on join in the fun!

Your welcome JAG1. Make sure to save your pennies and bring your next toy to install. You might want to look right here in the forum. If everyone put a marker in the forum map we would have people all across America like us...

My Harbor Freight chop saw... What do you expect???

That darn JAG1... It's true. I did do the job for nothing. I laid over his engine for about 2 hours drinking his beer and installing his injection pump. Even though JAG1 picks up a bolt asking what's this for? Then proceeds to drop it down the intercooler tube. Well I did have a nice set of mats awhile back but I got a fire call one day and forgot one of the mats was on the canopy so it blew away on the highway. Never found it. So I took a chuck of indoor / outdoor carpet and chopped it up and tossed it in for the time being. NO BIGGY, next time I would seen something I would of replaced them. But NOOOO... JAG1 is just too picky didn't like my home brew floor mats. As for the milkshakes it did turn into a minor battle at the casher which I told him I would take care of it. NOOOOO... JAG1 wasn't going to back down and neither was I. Still in all I enjoyed the time he was here and hope soon he comes back again. Oh look out... MoparMom is going to get you next... <- JAG1 Mopar1973Man ->

This is what pumps the fuel up to a minimum of 4,500 PSI The 3 pins are actually the pistons. All three piston pump at the same time from the roller and shoes that follow the cam gear. Yes. But the cooling is done through the fuel not the cover lid. You notice the circuit board is in direct contact with the aluminum housing. So the fuel is the cooling agent. This why the minimum for 14 PSI became the normal now because this insures the overflow valve is open instantly when the truck is started. Ok. I really don't have a good picture for this so I'll just type it. The PSG commands timing advancement. It open a solenoid valve to allow fuel pressure from the vane pump to push the timing piston advance. This in turns the cam gear in the housing which now advanced the lobes that the roller and shoes pump the fuel. The tone wheel can sense if the timing actually advanced or not (P0216). Now as for how much I wanted to measure the stroke of the piston and degree change of the cam ring. But the pump I have is P0216 pump. The timing piston is so bad that in cold temperatures you physically can't move the piston. The only way I can get it to move is to heat the pump body with a propane torch and even then its still hard. I wanted to fix the timing piston with a file and debur it but the timing piston is harden steel and tool file will not even scratch it. So I'm sorry I can't answer the degree span. As for the timing section. Here is the cam ring and the timing piston. The timing piston slides in the housing twisting the came ring advanced or retard. Now you see the roller and shoes that follow the cam ring. So the tip of the rotor assembly fits down in the middle of the 3 shoes and the pistons line up with the shoes. Here is the fuel pump and distributor disassembled. The infamous "Cracked Diaphragm" which doesn't exist in the Rev 027 pumps. This is again a harden steel plate covered with plastic to hold the o-ring. This will not crack. As you can see anyone could actually rebuild there own pumps if they wanted too. There is nothing really all that difficult to doing the mechanical part of the pump. The programming and calibration on a Bosch 815 test stand that is the magic that no one can do... Just to let you know... It's Cummins. Not Cummings.

If it was me I would been in the collector of the manifold like in your second pick.

No. MoparMom bought the 2 doves. JAG1 made the cross that they hang on. Orignally MoparMom wanted to hang it on a string in the living room on the stone fireplace. But the doves are so frail hat they need to be mounted to a wood backing so MoparMom wanted a nice wooden cross to hang them on. So JAG1 created the cross while he was here. That's a really good carpenter. He knows his stuff.

Just think about something. When Chrysler is building vehicles do you think they are using high quality / high priced brake pads / shoes? Of course not they are using the minimum requirements they have too. Better profit margins of course... So it comes down to what you use your vehicle for and where you drive. But I would say that most "High Quality Brakes" like above don't perform all that great. Even when I was work at the shop Lindy was always buying the middle of the line brake pads / shoes. At least he claimed the cheap / economy didn't last long. The high quality pads typically ate the rotors before the pads also noisy with squeaks and such. Where the middle of the line did rather well for wear and stopping power. But I tend to look at some of these report of short life and tend to look at that more so as driver error. I do realize that living in a large city in stop and go traffic is very demanding for brakes but again there is thing a drive can do to reduce brake wear even in those conditions. Then the comment about about Automatics... I my 1996 still has factory OEM brake shoes and pads yet at 159k miles. That's a 46RE automatic truck, gasoline engine, 3.55 gears.

24V are not paper pleats. They are like a fiber / weave material very loose. Kind like this bit thin and loose weave.

Drill and tap both positions. Do some test and find out which one is truly hotter.

I've seen a few those. Not really a good filter at all. Does not do much for dust.

I know the feeling with my Garmin suction mount on the front windshield. I mount it so it nearly touching the dash so if and when it falls it just flops over. I've got the same problem.

No. There is no filter for the HVAC system. The best thing you can do is run MAX A/C setting. That only draws inside air. Where all other setting draw outside air.

Like myself I'll run the trucker speed limit at 70 MPH which is like 2,100 on the tach. But it so rare to be near an interstate. I'm mostly running state highway and 2 lane roads with speed limits of 45 MPH to 65 MPH. Towing my RV I typically keep my speed to 55 MPH with all the 2 lane highways. I used to jump on the interstate with the RV and run 65 MPH with the truckers. But now with the 70 MPH trucker speeds I'll just avoid the interstates. There is plenty of wonderful state highway to travel and slower more relaxed speeds. Being I've seen plenty of accidents on the highway with the fire dept. I tend to drive under the speed limit most of the time with heavy loads. Gives more timee for me to react to idiots passing too many vehicles. Take the time and watch some of the YouTube videos of vehicle accidents or car crashes. You'll see most of the video a common mistake of people passing other vehicles and either collide with on coming or lose control making the pass at too high of speed or too tight and loose control.

Just remember larger tires put more stress on everything including the front suspension and steering too. So the 4.10 gear will help for the transmission but there is also the front suspension you have to beef up to handle it.

I've always got weird looks for using the transmission to control road speed and climbing power. In the 1996 I will gear down and use it as much as possible. I've been known on steep grades of dropping into 4WD LO and crawling off some of my steeper stuff...

Like my compressor failed on the shaft seal. I never did find dye anywhere in the evaporator, lines, pressure switches, condenser, etc. So I replaced my compressor and 3 years of leak free A/C now and wonderfully cold. So cold at times you have to roll down the windows to warm up again.

Absolutely. As stated by Idaho... As for Instate travel I'm not fond of the 80 MPH speed limits now. Even empty truck it just way too fast for my blood and the truck my MPG's are way low at those speeds. Not fond of running the tach at 2,300 RPM's just not efficient for my rig at all. CSM as for your EGT's and such is because of the 4 speed gears ratios. Your overdrive is lower ratio than my 5 speed (0.75) or even a 6 speed (0.73). But when you drop back to 3rd or out of over drive your back to direct (1:1) ratio. Just like when I drop from 5th to 4th is the same thing I get direct (1:1).

I'm only 5k away from 200k on this pump. Rollin' Rollin' keep those pumps a rollin'...

Absolutely. I see way too many people doing the drag racing to the top of a grade. Matter of fact I had it happen on my way home for Ontario, OR. Crazy Ford owner didn't like my 55 MPH tow speeds and attempt to try to pass going up a 6% grade and couldn't do it. I just left my cruise set for 55 MPH and ran 4th gear over the grade. Held a nice warm 1,100*F over the grade. Boost running 20-25 PSI.

Like still with my stock HX35W turbo I still peak out at 36-37 PSI and the the boost elbow pops open the wastegate and it falls to 34-35 and stays.

Thanx... That Subaru was driving me crazy. She admitted o me that she been adding freon and the span was getting shorter and shorter between recharging. I started out with a basic recharge and added dye to the system. Ask her to drive with the A/C on as much as possible to push the dye around. She just left it parked most of the time. So it came back I added even more dye and small amount of freon to hopefully get it to push out. Left it run for over 30 minutes with the A/C black lighted it that evening and nothing. Got up the next morning and black lighted again PRESTO the green stood out like a sore thumb you could miss it. So that being said I would add the dye to the air conditioning system recharge it like normal. The drive it around for a few days. Every evening in the dark break out the black light and check all the joints for green to show up. I know NAPA sells the black light flashlight. Here you go. https://www.google.com/#q=black+light+flashlight&tbm=shop As for the photo any digital camera can see UV. Just shine your TV remote at your digital camera and you can see the LED light up in the camera but you can't with the naked eye... (Mopar1973Man Trick)

You win... Automatic are horrid for hold back power. The do fine for pulling but even my 96 Dodge is bad about steep grades. You end up riding the brakes to the bottom. So yeah... I would say you better off with a 17" wheels and 3rd Gen brakes that would improve the braking power and might do bit better for pad life.