Mopar1973Man

I was just informed of this tidbit of information about Salmon River Rural Fire Department. I was listening to the Fire Chief talk about ground we cover. We cover 67 miles of the canyon floor plus 12 miles on either side of the main highway. Then you have to cover all the side roads leading away from the main highway and 12 miles of either side of that road. So, Salmon River Rural is the biggest fire department for coverage in the state of Idaho. Then we rank 5thin the nation for size of district. We have 6 fire station scattered along the canyon from Pinehurst Station #1, White Water Wilderness Ranch #2, Rapid River #3, Lucile #4, Slate Creek #5, White Bird #6. Each station house has two trucks some are water tenders, structure engines or fast attacks / wildland. What is really scary about all this we only have 1 fire hydrant in the entire district. Now consider the skills it takes to organize and keep water coming to fire fighters be it you are pumping water from a creek or river then truck it back to the scene.

Summer is about here... Time to look into a few things... Cooling system flushing New thermostat Power washing the radiators and coolers out New fan belt Check the freon pressures in your air conditioning Check the radiator hoses Check the idler pulley bearings including the fan Inspect the fan clutch for leaking oil Time to check over the truck and prepare for a nice hot summer. So don't neglect your truck take the time and inspect these different areas to be sure you have a enjoyable summer either towing, RV'ing, or just making back and forth to work.

All I can say is pull them off and bench test them on a battery see if they spin before you leave the yard. But the electric motors or the switch will fail on those typically.

Beyond that I don't have a answer... I don't know of any replacement bearings... Might be one in the top but unknown if you can get it out or replaced.

I gone down that road already. Replaced everything else once but came down to replacing the compressor and now I have leak free system.

If I'm not mistaken the temp sensor is near governor sensor so it's in the pan and trans temp light cones at 290 or so.

How about this? http://www.rocksolidramtrucksteering.com/

Do keep in mind DOR has a very long wait for products. So be sure to measure and get things in order before ordering. Expect 6 month or longer sometimes for parts. Let's see a picture of the truck...

What has to occur is the fuel sprayed in a fine mist that the compression heat can covert from liquid to vapor to go BOOM! so yes spray pattern and quality has a bit to do withi it. Another one that can impact the MPG's is valve lash and compression. If the rings are getting weak and excessive blow by starts occuring then power is lost around the rings. Valve lash could do the same thing too being valves will open later typically because of wear of the valvetrain parts. I know you have low mileage on this but I'm now listing all the different things I can think off.

Rebuilt? So the nozzles what was the quality of the spray? So did the nozzles and pintles get changed in the rebuild? Just because the change a shim on the spring doesn't change the spray quality replacment of the nozzle and pintle will. So you can see how little there is to the injectors. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-12v-dodge-cummins/15-how-to-clean-your-injectors

I still tend to look at the injectors. Being the spray pattern is poor then the atomized fuel will not burn clean. If the pop pressure is low then the spray isn't as fine and the timing ends up being advanced. I would see if you can hook up with a 12V owner here and see if you can swap injectors with some for testing purpose.

Might work better to place a classified ad and post pictures. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/classifieds/

That's the thing get a ECM from a like model truck and the test will work just fine but get a different model then you end up with errors for cam sensor possibly.

Still in all like I told my neighbor if it doesn't re-activate they will replace it for FREE. So it doesn't matter. Yeah we still got a Radio Shack up here its the local cell store.

(10 years ago roughly) Well I got to a story to tell. About 10 years ago I was over a friend house. He was digging through a drawer in the kitchen looking for something and he spun around... "Hey you need a cell phone take this one." At the time I wasn't a big cell phone fan but for free why not? So I grabbed the cell phone and charger cord. In the next few days I go out and bought some time for it and tried to active the phone. Come to find out it can't be done. So I called TracFone and they told me the phone was too old and would have to be replaced for FREE. Wow! So I gladly boxed up the old phone and mailed it back to TracFone and within about 2 weeks go my new cell phone. It was a nice LG phone and served me well for over 10 year now. In the last year or so I upgrade to a new LG phone again. (Yesterday) My neighbor comes over as always bringing my mail up from the mailbox. He start telling about buying a cell phone and it was a Jitterbug. How he spent $100 on the phone and within hours got charged a activation fees as well to he credit card. Not to mention spending over 2 hours in New Meadows, ID trying to activate something that does not work on our cell towers. So I told him about my cheap $29 LG TracFone and suggest he just make a run to the local Radio Shack in McCall, ID. Well I parted way with him and.... Thought a second... That right that old LG TracFone is in my desk drawer. So I whistle to him... Hang on a second. I ran into the house and and grab the phone, the house charger and the car charger. I handed it over to him and he was shocked. "What do I owe you for this?" I told him, "Nothing. I just paying it forward. I never paid for the first one so I can't charge you for this..."

Come on guys and gals I see all these new people registering post your pics...

Look closely at the seat and the screw part. Carefully loosen the screw shaft so it can spin. You might want to help it out with a little lube too. Very common for seat motors to burn up. Matter of fact I've got a old seat frame I save from the dump for repairing the 1996 Dodge power seats some day. I've also got forward and back slide but the tilt is working on one side. I guess I know what my future project is going to be...

Oh my gawd... I've been down that path too. When EPA started pushing for water based paints we done that too. What a mess...

PCM, ECM and VP44 is self grounded through the passenger battery cable adding extra grounds does nothing. No. It suppose to check disconnected. The reason for some of these test is to check for shorts to ground. So it should show infinite. Suggestion is to see if you have any friends or members here with a ECM you cam barrow for a quick test. Might drop a pin on the member map and see who is around you. I still will not suggest replacement of the ECM there is still not enough to convince me its it. Now if you swap ECM's and the problem goes away then I would highly suggest it. Just make sure to find a like model truck to swap with. I think Whitelightning is a early 24V...

That why I'm willing to provide the know how. Just up to you to get the work done. Funny thing is this morning I get to do a o-ring kit on a Ford diesel and get him ready to head back to North Dakota. Can of UV dye is rather cheap and black light flashlight is cheap too. Here is where the money get spent I will admit the manifold gauges and vacuum pump can get you for about $250 to $300 depending on brand. Everything else is standard hand tools except the the collar to release the couplings. Those are also fairly cheap at a part house. If you got that book you have all the knowledge you need to get the job done...

That is what is so fun about this group you can pick on them. We are all one big happy family of Dodge guys. Take the time ask plenty of questions and you might even give me a call so time.

So you hot wired the Vp44 and got the same results. Ok. So that does point to mechanical issues.

Right now we don't even have one smoking gun to a possible need of a ECM so let that slide for now. I will not even suggest a high dollar part before finding two tests that condemn that device.

Now he's got a shiny turbo but a broken engine. We still don't know what went wrong.

Ok. Have you replaced the crank sensor? If not I would start there first. If the code is still coming even with a new crank sensor then I would run this test in the above link. Even I'm a bit confused on step 8. How can measuring the ohms between the wire and ground determine if the ECM is bad if the ECM isn't even in the circuit. But this is what can out of the book.