Mopar1973Man

Ok... Go back to your hole... (Just kidding!) It's always nice to put faces and name together. I funny how small groups of people are placing there pin on the member map. Then calling around and gathering up into group to hang out or help out.

Oh! I see, you didn't want to show off your custom ventilated dash right?

Heck at that rate if Russ went to Oregon I would have to follow the last bit of the trip to give you hand I guess... I really doubt Russ would do a cross country haul for a repair.

Or you could be like a local here that kept dumping can after can into the system. Every spring its 3 cans of freon in 5 years at about $11 a can totals out at $165 in freon. But it only took a simple $10 o-ring kit to fix and no longer leaking. So is it worth tracking down? Sure it is when a o-ring kits are cheap and you don't have to continue the cycle of throwing money out the window.

Tell her to slow down the fuel last longer at slower speeds... Also won't cost you a speed ticket either.

No kidding we are suppose to take your word for this??? Break out the camera and show us.

Sorry to hear that Russ... Like John said hopefully you find other way to enjoy life with your progressing MS problems.

Boost leaks? Injectors pop tested to spec or just in the "OK" range? Some how it just seems that fuel isn't atomized good or timing is off a bit yet.

http://elmelectronics.com/obdsoftware.html Since I'm looking for ways of hacking the CANBus and the CCD network for information I figure I would share my findings for software and other goodies along the way. I guess it might be time to create some articles on this so others can jump in as well. Here is the company that sells the Bluetooth dongles or WiFi dongle for (Apple products). http://www.obdlink.com/

Just about to 1/4 of million...

I'd rather use a good vacuum pump and leave it suck a vacuum on the system typically for at least 15 minutes. Then shut everything down and leave it sit for another period of 30 minutes or so and check and see if the vacuum held or not. If not then repair the leak. If the system already had some pressure I typically add shot of UV dye and enough freon to run the compressor. Like my last job on a Subaru...

Cycling compressor is tell you that your freon is low. When recharged properly the compressor should run solid not cycling in and out. So this is a clue that you have slow leak some where. It's really easy to do a o-ring change and typically fix it the first time.

Still in all the whole idea of having your windows down a inch or so in a rain storm is rather great now you can clean the humidity in the cab rather quickly.

I gather you trying to get around tint laws? Something like LMC Truck listings? http://www.lmctruck.com/features/de/DE9WB.htm

Just to show... Like there is several 6.7L threads here on the the forum that are push to the top of the first page. It's just a matter of getting more 3rd and 4th gen owners to talk here. Take notice to that other big name in the result and I've got the least amount of 6.7L info but rank near the top. Of course ther is no 6.7L articles at all so there is no article result. Typically the forum.mopar1973man.com and articles.mopar1973man.com wind up taking to results on the first page for most 24V stuff.

Interesting... I'll have to take a look some time.

Actually it's 40 warm up cycles and it will self erase.

Here here... That why people are now creating there own controllers and such like Mega-Squirt and Arduino products. Even though my Step-Dad was a retiree from General Motors I never bought a GM product. Even when it can to buying my current truck GM's prices where still higher than Dodge's. As what I will do with my truck and future truck I will continue to do what I'm doing. I will always modify my vehicle to be what I want it to be. Period. If it requires modification of controller software or data I will do it.

Kind of like these...

I can go on about things I heard and witnessed but still in all most doctors today are not all that bright nor do you feel cared for.

Be aware of washable media filters. A lot of people jump on that bandwagon and then fall prey to the dusted engines. Washable filter are pricey but there is no way of knowing how many times you can wash the filter and reuse it before it starting to fail and pass dust into your engine. This is why I will suggest staying to normal paper element if possible. At least you know when the filter is dirty you throw the entire filter and dirt in the trash. Another trick is spray the mouth of the air box with WD40 with light film. If a filter is failing to seal it will leave a dust in the film of WD40.

There was s a article in the the 24V area about engine swaps and what is required to do it.

Hit the "More Reply Options" button on the right and then the next screen will show up.

Ok. Here is how to post pictures. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/mopar1973man-com-site-information/478-adding-an-image-to-a-post-on-mopar1973man-com (Thanks Me78569)

You better listen to AH64ID.. I'm backing out. I'll keep my suggestions to myself.