Mopar1973Man

Yes. Take notice to the CAN Bus pins in the OBDII socket. (6 & 14) ISO 9141-2 protocol. (7) Then CCD Network. (3 & 11).

No better than most of the videos posted by guys trying to drive around and show you tachometer readings.

This is not my OEM original VP44 it failed at 48k with a P0216 code and was replaced at 50k miles. Since then I've now got 196k on this pump and going for 200k mark.

Ummm... If I ripping out the ceiling I'm ripping out a roof too. Still wouldn't be tall enough. If I do actually get that much going I would pour a concrete pad and put the lift in the yard. That's day dreamin' right now and I got to start small and simple.

Ever since I quit my job down at Lindy's shop I've come home and kind of had a slow week then JAG1 (Michael) shows up and I do a Injection pump for him. I send him on his way. Then my business kicked off. I've managed to have a car in the shop every day of the week so far. Kind of nice. Oxygen sensor on a Dodge Dakota. Then flip over and chase a freon leak on a Subaru. Then this morning friend calls me to tell me his Chevy truck failed at the gas station in New Meadows. Then get home and tear a Chevy Blazer apart to get the blend door motor out of the dash and then re-seal (o-ring) the A/C system. Been nice...

Most all vehicles today have a label under the specifying weight of freon. Also most vehicles that are 1996 and newer are R134a freon systems and all run the same pressure range for the most part. 30-40 PSI on the lo side. The whole trick is getting enough freon to keeping the compressor locked and not cycling without over doing. Too little will cause compressor clutch damage with constant cycling in and out. Then over charging will decrease performance of the A/C because higher the lo side the warmer the air will become. Like back in the day R12 for refrigerator was 2-5 on the lo side A/C was 35-40 on the lo side.

Either way your going have to pull the compressor to do the clutch work. I really doubt you'll have the room to pull it.

Here I am studying how to hack CAN bus and read the data the computers have in our trucks. Trust me there is a big business in behind keeping this hidden. More I keep learning the more it shocks me. Like if you learn how to analyze CAN bus messages you can start dipping in and taking control of different functions from engine, transmission or even as simple as stereo. I was reading a article about getting deeper and if done right you can change anything right down to the odometer if you wished. But the trick with that is there is a key that is based on a seed number the ECM / PCM produces and you would have to calculate against the seed with algorithm to get the key. Then the article went into detail on how to brute force the lock. Wow!!! Right now I'm just wanting to get the other data inside the computers like Transmission temperature, Fuel temperature and maybe injection timing if possible. I've been reading articles about CAN bus reading and what not and it just seems like the rabbit hole keeps getting deeper and deeper. Sorry Dodge, Chrysler, EPA, and other agencies... I paid $35,000 to buy my truck and I've now owned it for 13 years if I desire to reverse engineer, read the CAN bus or modify my truck. I'll do it.

I got one that is shimmy in a different speed range like 60-70 MPH. So I'm going to digging at my truck like other have said check all things that rotate. Driveshafts, axle bearings, rotors, etc.

Might control the fuel aspect but still absolutely nothing for timing where MPG's are found like finding out IAT and ECT control the timing tables on the VP44. Then the other factor is cetane number that will change again the timing and BTU's of the fuel. Nice to see some got smart on the P7100 pump for fuelling control but still in all lacking the timing.

If you chasing MPG's I would stay with the VP44. Being I've high marked at 27.2 and can reach mid 20's most of the summer. High teens and low 20's all winter.

1st Gens come with a computer. It's typically mounted behind the battery. The connection for the tach is typically under the dash. I've only seen one truck with the optional tach but never really look to see what wires and what colors. So if you missing the computer, crank sensor, and wiring then I'm no sure what to say... This is why I suggest getting a aftermarket tach it would be much easier.

There is a difference to having a true 12V and P7100 design for each other and getting good MPG's. Then there is the Frankenstein 24V P7100 conversion. Most can't reach or touch the MPG number of a 12V. So have reach good performance and other turn the truck into a complete basket case. I've seen both happen. P7100 was the only injection pump without timing. All others have hydraulic timing or electronic timing.

I know it won't fly. People, web sites, racers, gear heads, etc... Will continue to modify their vehicle to the way they see fit. Now area like California with smog checking and other states with vehicle inspections tends to keep this in check and preventing off-highway vehicle being used on highway. Some people go through the trouble each year to change back to stock smog and then reinstall all the toyz again. Yeah I was one of those too back in the day of living in Cally.

You'll have to hook up a after market tach for that. The stock tach had a weird voltage value like 10 volt which nothing today can use. Also the only thing I knew of that you could use on that was the Dodge Optional Tach. So I would say look for a aftermarket tach designed for diesels.

Just like the high idle mod and MPG fooler is also unapproved device. But I'll continue to support and design them.

Corrected...

I'm not scared off by this. Once again Gov't Agencies have been trying to limit everyone form modifying their vehicles for YEARS. Even if some sort of laws was made I sure people will still modify their vehicles. Just like the fines levelled at Edge and other manufactures. Companies are still producing delete kits, modules and programmers. Heck you might as well outlaw my OBDLink being I can now hack the bus data on my truck. I remember growing up in the later 70's and 80's when Unleaded Gas came out and the Catalytic Converters. Big Scare don't cut your Cat out you could be fined big. Still to this day people still do it.

Mighty Whitety is going through the "Terrible Two's"

Hmm... For the Linux Boys out there I just found a free CANBUS sniffer program. http://www.canhack.org/board/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=817&sid=f43c48e2719f09e496e87b29c172ea75

Here give you a feel for what you can do... http://theksmith.com/software/hack-vehicle-bus-cheap-easy-part-1/ http://theksmith.com/software/hack-vehicle-bus-cheap-easy-part-2/

Heck I'm already planing on putting fresh rubber on the RV so I can go traveling this summer. MoparMom and I already have a plan at some point to head east into Montana and Wyoming for a trip. If you happen to be in the travel path I might just have to pull in camp a night.

Consider your reason for conversion. If you building this engine for drag racing then P7100 pump is ultimate way to go. But for daily driver I still suggest keeping the Vp44. As for conversion there is possibly a lot of options you'll lose from doing a conversion. (Dodge Truck Body). Remember this may impact your diagnostic abilities of the engine. But if converting to to a Ford or Chevy body then this will simply the install of the engine. Basically need to yank the front of the engine off. New gear case, new cam with 12V fuel pump lobe, 12V lift pump, P7100 pump, conversion injection lines, re-pop the injectors for the p7100 pump, all the throttle linkage and few other oddball things. Like I tell most people it's like ripping off a perfectly good high MPG electronic fuel injection system to install inefficient carburetor on a engine. For drag racing most still go back to carburetors but electronic injection is still far better efficiency than carburetors.

Just right. 14-20 PSI of fuel pressure under normal road load conditions. Should be 7-12 PSI while cranking/starting. Time to pack up and run from that shop because he's clueless. Because the ECM, PCM and VP44 do not get grounds from the body or frame but directly from the battery cable themselves.

Means the data from the ABS computer is being lost or erred while traveling from the ABS computer to the instrument cluster. All ABS modules should be flashed for tire size for speedometer calibration. But in your case withe the bouncing I'm really puzzled not knowing is it the speed sensor or wiring before the ABS. Or is it the ABS communication on the CCD network that is screwed up. Either way you going to need a dealer to look at the sensor and ABS module to be sure. As for the communication the dealer should be able check that with the DRBIII tool.