Mopar1973Man

As far as I know all the download links are functional.

Yeah... Just done the very same thing on my 1996 this last winter and fixed the issues.

I'm glad to see both sides here. Wild and Free trying to be helpful but in turn Russ holding out tight to what he can still do. I tend to agree with Bill eventually you will have to concede to moving to a Condo. I've got my retired fire chief that is in his mid 80's and has a handicapped wife. They finally gave in and moved to retirement home in Grangeville, ID. I'm glad he did. So I understand Bill's comments but in the same token I understand Russ's fight to hang on. Because even Jean (Fire Chief) just couldn't do the retirement home thing. Jean fought it for about 30 days and finally stayed at the retirement home. So Russ just be really with yourself and understand your limits.

Yes. No joke. I actually bleach some of the dark color out of it. About every 6 months I have it done.

No joke. If the MIL is OFF and NO codes can be read then the truck should pass. If there is anything pending it shouldn't count till the error code is tripped or the MIL is ON.

Ouch...

If there is a MIL error then there should be a code. Even if its pending and has fully tripped there still should be a error code. If so then have the shop write down the code and post it here so we can help you.

Russ... When you do the adjustment do it slow and little at a time. Most will suggest you do it following the FSM directions. There is a WORM THRUST BEARING PRELOAD (Page 19-17 of 2001 FSM). This is at the input side of the gear box and there is a very large jam nut and adjustment plug. Then there is the other adjustment PITMAN SHAFT OVER-CENTER PRELOAD (19-17 of the 2001 FSM). Standard nyloc nut and a Allen set screw. Turn the allen inwards. I typically do it in 1/4 turn amounts. If either adjustment is done wrong it could lead to damaging the gear box as some have reported to me. But most people don't want to pull entire steering box out to just the slack out of it.

Exactly. Like for me to change out the filters on my truck I got to clamp off the supply hose because the siphon effect of the loaded fuel system. What you need to remember is to stay within the abilities of the pump. All pumps will lift fluid X amount of distance. As long as it not outside that your fine. Like in our case you can't be above the frame level because there is a body in the way. Even with the idea of being in the fender area you can rise much more than a few inches to tuck the pump and filters. DieselFuture's setup is what I would like to have in the my future fuel system. But I would hit a wrecking yard and get the 1994-1996 fender skirts. Then hide all that stuff in one whack!

Like before I left for my Camping trip I spun another 1/4 turn tighter on the steering gear box and the steering is near perfect. Tight and wander free even with a 8,000 pound trailer yanking on the rear bumper.

Even back in the day of my Stock Carter and Vulcan Big Line Kit I still was only 2-3 PSI drop between idle to WOT.

Check for AC noise at the alternator. More than likely the ECM has taken on damage. But before we condemn the ECM you better check the Alternator AC voltage and check for error codes to see if something else is going on.

Idaho is no better between the amount of mud and the salt they put on the highways. Anti-seize in the only way to go. I've seen the damage that can happen from a rusted fastener or the amount of struggling to separate two parts that are rusted together.

Heck you two... If you going this far you might as well write code to set CEL light for pressure senor out of range. You could take the 1900 error code range. So if the sensors drop to error range that it trips the CEL light and set the error code.

I've seen rare cases where lift pump don't prime again. So I typically loosen the fuel fitting at the VP44 and using airgun and rag blow air pressure into the tank till the fuel flows at the VP44. You'll need two people to do this. So while the fuel is flowing have a second person close the fitting and you should be able to start the truck again.

1999 Dodge's are pretty simple. Vacuum goes from the vacuum pump to the cowling. Then routes over to the passenger side for HVAC controls. There should be a second line that heads down to the transfer case. If you have a exhaust brake then you could have a 3rd port on the passenger side for the exhaust brake. Routing and tubing is up to you. I would be really worried about getting factory parts. I would look at where the tubing is routed and run new rubber hose or plastic line. Most of all this stuff could be had a NAPA store. Like on my 1996 Dodge I was cheesy and bought cheap vinyl tubing and replaced all the plastic tubing. This time a around I'll most likely do Air Brake line and a bit of rubber for nipples. Re do the entire routing because I think I can do better.

Man TFaoro, I wish your problem was as easy as mine. After changing the cross over tubes and this this weekend hitched up and went to Huntington, Oregon to go out for the first RV trip of the year. Absolutely no more miss and the truck ran strong. I hate to say it but I guess you going down that road of full pull down to see what's going on. Something isn't right cylinder wise.

If there is no codes just go for the smog test. The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT always comes on for a bulb test and goes out after starting. As long as there is no codes and no CHECK ENGINE light you are fine.

True, But the plug hole could be aluminium or cast iron so the little anti-seize is still a plus when you have people that drive till the electrodes are gone.

Major pressure drop (greater than 5 PSI) while operating is a sign of weak lift pump. Most or less the demand volume of the engine is out weighing the supply volume of the lift pump. Like my setup I idle at 17 PSI and 15 PSI at WOT. This is a sign your pump is keeping up with the demand.

What's the error code? You'll have to resolve the error for the code to be erased. Disconnecting the batteries will NOT reset any codes or reset any of the computers.

More here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues And here http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4988-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues/

Down at Lindy's shop Anti-seize is a commonly used supply. Everything from lugs nuts, to front-end hardware, you name it. I also use it in spark plugs. It really does make removal later a snap. Thanks CSM about the conductive warning I'll remember that.

Up here in McCall, ID they make a bucket extender that widened the front bucket and also makes it longer. It all bolts onto the existing front bucket.

Sound like the gear box needs adjustment maybe? Sector adjustment. Someone needs to verify the steering linkage is tight too.