Mopar1973Man

I guess it time to build the same thing here I know there is Smarty owners here on the site as well.

They did... 2003 Common Rail and up.

Like myself I clear 30k miles a year so it gets 3-4 oil changes a year or one every 3 month roughly.

This year I won't have all the slow rolling back woods as much. As a matter of fact I've got the trailer hitched up this morning and heading to a log yard in New Meadows, Idaho to get a load of Red Fir for $100 a cord. So all my firewood hauling this year will be highway running.

Go to the top and click on your user name a menu will drop down. Your profile and other stuff will be there. As for photos. In the lower right is "More Reply Options" then the text will re-open will more stuff like attachment options etc.

Like Pepsi71Ocean taught me a while back its possible to fool sensors and create problems too. Like him he was paranoid of hot shutdowns on the VP44 so he used a fan to cool the VP44 all the time. What would happen is the truck will start up and run backwards. So it's possible with the Smarty and IAT fooler or both is causing your issues. Like I said try dropping the IAT and then try it again without the Smarty.

From the FMCSA web site... http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/title49/section/393.67 (4) Drains and bottom fittings. (i) Drains or other bottom fittings must not extend more than three-fourths of an inch below the lowest part of the fuel tank or sump. (ii) Drains or other bottom fittings must be protected against damage from impact. (iii) If a fuel tank has drains the drain fittings must permit substantially complete drainage of the tank. (iv) Drains or other bottom fittings must be installed in a flange or spud designed to accommodate it. (5) Fuel withdrawal fittings. Except for diesel fuel tanks, the fittings through which fuel is withdrawn from a fuel tank must be located above the normal level of fuel in the tank when the tank is full. So I guess it legal if I'm reading that right. Here is a bit more I found... https://www.transferflow.com/regulations

No. The overflow valve will continue to flow fuel as long as supplied fuel pressure is above 14 PSI.

Doesn't speak to good about BlueChip to have 2 pumps fail in a month.

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?app=garage&do=item_list&search_term=1794&search_field=member_id&search_method=exact 184k miles and 5 pumps. That's only 36,800 miles per pump. These were all weak point through the REVisions of the VP44 from the start to the end which is 027. I don't know of any other changes. I'm sure revisions started in the release of the VP44.

Dripley the last I knew was having personal issues and would come back when he was ready. My best guess would be to ohm out the wiring for the cruise control. DANGER! WARNING! Be careful about suppling voltage to the air bag module you might trip it off. So I suggest you unhook the batteries and wait 15 minutes and then unplug the air bag module. Then you can test against the cruise control buttons. Each one should have a different resistance.

About right it's a boat anchor. It the new Ford 6.4L diesel. I've worked around a few of those and absolutely hate them. Just un-real the amount of BS in the way you have to remove to just find a valve cover or a head. This is why I love looking back at the past and holding tight to my 24 valve 2nd Gen truck because I know it works and its simple to repair. This is a good reason to hold on to your Grandfather 1st gen and leave it unmolested. You won't find them like that any more that's for sure... Kind of like looking back at old school muscle cars and how little was under the hood just engine. Now today there is so much stuff you can't find the top of the engine if you wanted to.

Might want to hop on the member map function and throw a tack up of where you live. At least city and state.

So he's no better. Just our VP44 pumps cost less than his 8 injectors.

Donations have to be done from the Full site version. At the top of the navigation bar will be Donation Button. Posting pictures also have to be done from the full site version. If the full site version when you posting at the bottom of the post box it will have the "Add Attachment" function. The newer forum software is suppose to have better mobile functions over my current version. I'm just waiting for Beta test and the first version to go by.

Either... http://sinisterdiesel.com/i-16504546-dipaco-dual-stage-fuel-pump-with-pump-mounted-driver-for-gm-1994-2003-6-5l.html?gclid=CKOznYnDlMUCFY6RfgodNGEAhQ http://www.fordiesels.com/gm-duramax-bosch-cp3-high-pressure-injector-pump-97720662-2001-2004/?gclid=COC9yZrDlMUCFdKIfgod0hcAeA I'm not sure but that what a quick Google search turned up.

I've seen his setup in person but like I dummy I didn't get a picture of it. I did find his old write up... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8113-truck-bed-tank-module-access-pics/

I really do love old stock trucks that are unmolested. Looking back at a simpler time versus today where you can hardly find a engine under all the tubes, wiring and BS. Ford 6.4L Cummins 6.7L

Next go around flip back to normal IAT.

I got to ask the question do you have a filter before the pump? I wonder if just the pure debris value of the fuel is enough to eat the shaft up. That is odd the seal did wear out first.

Some of have computer scattered around the house so I can keep up with the site. So like right now I'm reading over the site as I lay in bed for evening.

If you just flash a Smarty tune and then return to stock the high idle is enabled. That is how I got my high idle enabled.

Shouldn't. MAP sensor should adjust to elevation and sense atmospheric pressure changes. Unless your MAP sensor has failed within limits which will not throw a code. Possible. Colder the IAT temperature the more advanced the timing. Warmer the IAT the less timing.

But the weather is nicer here...

OMG... JAG1 (Michael) want to have a get together here so maybe I could get all the "Mike's" together in one spot... Just a idea...