Mopar1973Man

Sounds like your main battery cables are bad if the voltage is not the same. As for the VP44 is only turned on if the ECM commands it through the fuel pump relay. So the VP44 can draw while thee key is off. Also if the battery cable where good the batteries should be matching at all times. But your batteries are different voltages running or not. So that points to bad cables.

I snooped inside it last night and for a truck camper I was shocked how much stuff they crammed in such a small space. Really shocking to see a full sized RV fridge in there. (WOW!) Most likely tomorrow I'll install the VP44 and get it done. Today is suppose to rain all day. So I'm not wanting to work in the rain. Also his setup won't fit inside the shop anyways.

Fuel shut off solenoid stuck in the up position. Double check the linkage on the P7100 isn't sticking or hanging up.

Yeah that's right JAG1 is camping in my front yard with his Dodge truck and truck camper. I'll post up pictures tomorrow in the daylight.

Here shortly JAG1 can validate what I've been saying...

Here is the Dodge FSM for your truck. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/file/68-2002-dodge-ram-fsmzip/

Another simple wiring diagram... Now remember this is for the Dodge Cummins not the industrial which might have different pins. I suggest you swap over to a Dodge wiring harness and ECM before going to much farther.

So the wire and the sensor are both good. So that leads down the path of a bad ABS controller. So time to hit up someone with a Dodge truck and do some bench testing.

OK John... Using the wiring diagram above... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9846-01-dodge-speedo-doa/page-3#entry109062 I ohm tested my truck. Now just pulling the connector from ABS controller and probing the plug (Red/Violet & White/Violet) With sensor hooked up ----------------------- 1,838 ohms Without sensor hooked up and shorted ---- 0.006 ohms Re do your test.

We had a wonderful conversation about this and the strange thing is the VP44 is already been replaced and still acting up.

Well we could use a new post on the Facebook page... To get your mind off of things...

A/T the lugs tend to fold over and tear. Where a solid tread tire is less likely to tear from the torque. I've dealt with this tire shop for over 20 years and trust these guys. Seriously I really never had to use my 4WD very much in the life of the truck. Now I'll be using it a bit more but 242k miles not worried. EDIT: They did very well hauling tail to a vehicle accident today.

Where I live its common to stop in the the middle of the street and talk to a passing friend or neighbor. If you break down out here and your local you typically get a ride to the next house on the highway which might be a long ways 20 or more miles.

Hua? Wires 1 and 8 only go to the ABS controller. That's it. After the ABS controller its all CCD Network.

Well from Ontario, OR to home that's it. When JAG1 gets here I'm sure I'll be going into the back country for a little sight seeing. JAG1 should be here about mid day Sunday...

Here this will help others... 2002-Dodge-Cummins-radio premium.pdf

Like I just put a fresh set of tires on my beast. Kept the 235/85 R16 size but now doing some talking to the sales rep for Tire Factory he suggested for the amount of power I'm putting down to avoid the A/T tire and give Black Lion a try. He admits the highway traction will improve but the offroad traction will suffer. So since I'm 4WD I can use that to make up for the loss. http://www.blackliontires.com/tires/BC86.html

I would consider pulling the door panel and looking it over. Might check with local part stores for possible replacements.

The color diagram is too big for the page. 2002-Dodge-Cummins-ABS.pdf

Or... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/149-diesel-auto-power/

Maybe using a long single straind of wire and do each lead separate and see what happens? I wonder if the twisted pair is adding a amount of resistance being your running both leads.

That wire is shot. Even with 18 AWG at 1,000 feet long is only 6 ohms. https://www.cirris.com/learning-center/calculators/133-wire-resistance-calculator-table The bad part is that lead is twisted pair. So this tells me the ABS/Brake light is on because the ABS computer can't see a good signal from the sensor. ABS system is totally separated from the ECM/PCM but rides on the CCD Network. As for the speedometer signal its easy as long as all the other gauges are working the CCD network is functional. Speed signal is embedded in the CCD network and travels with the other signals (oil pressure, volts, temperature, etc.)

Ohm reading wire end to wire end. Check to see if it's in the range of 0-5 ohms. (Without the sensor). Might be the wire is corroded or something. For it to work for a short span and quit is a loose connection or broken wire. With it dead right now the sensor should show as a open circuit or excessive high ohm reading . Any lights or error codes?

There is a lose connection in the rear ABS sensor for it to work for a short time. Check again...

Still there is a problem how many times the filter can be washed before breaking down the media. Then if its a oiled media (I didn't check) then they tend to have a shorter filter life in dusty conditions because again of the constant washing and plugging up.