Mopar1973Man

Before doing all that I would do the o-ring seals first. Also I would also add a shot of UV dye and use a black light to find the leak. Like my last chase I finally found the leak on a 2001 Subaru. The compressor failed.

No different that my pig or beast...

Maybe like this...

I tend to agree. Out here its common practise to see people drive it till the injectors fail. Then the owner gets the bad news the engine is ruined and needs at least a short block and new injectors. I don't know of many that have made it past 200k miles without issues starting to sneak in. If you not willing to test the injectors I would test the oil looking for fuel in the oil.

I typically buy the cheapest pads I can get. Why? Because I want something with the least amount of metallic compounds that is not going to eat the rotors. As for pad life I get 185k miles from OEM pads and will do my next brake service at about 360k miles roughly. Why? Exhaust brake is used for 90% of my stopping power so brake pedal is rarely ever touched. So ultimately if you want the longest life from brake pads you need a exhaust brake.

You might want to check the download area... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/file/70-1999-dodge-ram-fsmzip/ I can share many photos I've got 193 MB worth of photos regarding the fuel system. So you'll have to specify a bit more...

Welcome to the family. Thank you for the great comments. We are nothing more than a collection of diesel heads, diesel owners, you name it. But there is very little competition here it more about just keep them ticking.

Dorkweed I would consider having them at least yanked out and tested. Eventually those injectors have to be getting tired and sloppy.

Yesterday I got to sample the windows visors. I love them already. I can roll down the windows just a little bit and increase the flow through the A/C to cool the truck down fast. Not to mention not getting buffeted by the wind and hit by the hapless bee.

I'm also using a South Bend clutch and do tow a 8,000 pound RV with no issues. Just ask JAG1 about the tires breaking loose in 4th gear going up a 7% grade.

I'm going to say the rear diff sensor is bad and creating false high speeds which the Edge juice is picking up. I would look at replacing the rear sensor first..

You need a quicker spooling turbo to clean up the smoke. But ultimately I would say a fuelling module like Edge Comp or Edge Juice but I can't. Reason being you can set the defuel mode to compensate for over fuelling vs boost to clean up the smoke. So like my setup I'm set for 5x3 (120 HP but only 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost). This allows me much great control over the fuel vs a Special X pump that is all fixed permanently and doesn't play well with electronics. The PSG (module on top of the VP44) requires 3 hours time on the Bosch 815 test stand to be calibrate properly. During the testing every thing is test and calibrated then the PSG is flashed with its own software when it passes all testing. So the Bosch VP44 is a stand-alone fuel pump. What I mean you can supply +12V power and ground and the truck will start and idle. The rest of the functions like timing and fuel management is controlled by the ECM. But the ECM is also a weak link in the whole performance design. You have to remember the ECM is only got software for stock fuel injectors and stock boost levels. So beyond that you when you reach beyond 20 PSI boost the software goes flat or defuel mode because you exceed the limits of the ECM. This is where a module like Edge or Quadzilla build the power. They can listen to the CANBUS and realize the ECM is at its limit and then take over and add more fuel and timing by the way of the wire tap on the injection pump. This way the module can command the pulse to start earlier and hold it holder making a timing advancement again and mode fuel being pumped. But again there is limits to how far you can go. If go out of range the VP44 will give the dead pedal feel and ignore the commanded fuel. More exploded view pictures here. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view Let me know if you want any pictures of any parts I've got much much more. Also I still got the VP44 here to rip apart if needed. Basically the VP44 only has 2 electric solenoids. Fuel Pin Solenoid Timing Advancement Solenoid The only other electronic function is the pickup sensor which is for firing the fuel solenoid, also seeing if the commanded timing occurred or not (P0216 code), fuel temperature sensor which also controls timing. Colder the fuel temp more advanced timing is given. Like some poor soul reported to me that he will no longer mount a fan or heat sink to the VP44. What happens is you super cool the VP44 too much it will actual advance timing so far that when you go to restart the engine it will start and run BACKWARDS! This is very damaging.... Inside the PSG unit...

I would find another fuel pressure gauge just for the sake of double checking and testing purpose. Too much fuel pressure can cause some weird problems too.

That's should be on the tone wheel inside the VP44. I'm going to assume the trigger is the wide spots in the tone wheel. Since the cam ring and the pickup swivel advance or retard as commanded. Then the pickup would sense the wide spots for firing the fuel.

Ok... What your fuel pressure? Idling? Also at highway speed WOT? Still going to need the error codes. Something I fell in love with. OBDLink LX (Green) This little bluetooth dongle is excellent for anyone with a smartphone with bluetooth. Except iPhones then you need OBDLink MX WiFi. http://www.obdlink.com/

Like Quadzilla already said in my quote above is that the stock VP44 without modification can reach full advancement without any modules or programming. So this just means when timing is given. Since mechanical advancement is going to static like twisting and setting a distributor or the Special X VP44 vs. programming which is going dynamically alter the curve and when max timing is given. Like Russ Quadzilla XLT.

Keep going... P1693 code just means there is more codes. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins

So far I'm liking my made in China Black Lion's on the truck wearing very well. http://www.blackliontires.com/tires/BC86.html

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html

Exactly. It a matter of modifying the current timing table to fit our driving needs than just advancing the initial timing. So then you get better all around performance. Yes I'm old enough to remember points and condensers. Also as a pup I found out what excessive timing does to a engine. It will break big chunks of piston and piston rings. Just like it can do on our trucks too. Like back in the day of Mopar's we changed the springs on the fly weights inside the distributor to change the timing curve and left the initial timing alone.

Like JAG1 and I had a long conversation on the phone last night about this. More or less what BlueChip had done is like taking a old Chevy truck grab the distributor and twisted forward a few extra degrees initial advance. So basically using that same idea the total number of degrees advancement is the same just move forward in time more. Where most performance box do the very same thing dynamic through software for much much less money. Edge EZ - $398.73 Edge Comp - $573.18 Edge Juice - $1003.48 Some more to look at... Smarty & Smarty Touch Quadzilla Diablo Power Puck Bully Dog Problem is now you stacking timing if you add a module to that Special X pump. So this is one of the limitation I spoke of you can add a performance module to a Special X or Hot Rod pump. But now a stock SO VP44 and a Edge Comp (120 HP) or a Quadzilla (180 HP) would surely produce way more power than mere 22 HP Special X. So the only direct you can go now is injectors for power and still you have no fuel management. Just thinking about it. You could run 2 devices with that Special X or hotrod. Smarty (fuel only mode - No timing) or TST box (Fuel only box). But still the timing map on a Special X or Hotrod is dictated by ECM and it's information. Where a full module like Edge, Quadzilla has a wider range of timing control.

That's why I suggest getting stock injection pump vs. Any kind hotrod or special X pump because you can tune around it much easier. With hotrod or special X you have to be aware of the limitations of each pump.

I have a few friends and few of them on the site. But I've got lots of acquaintances.

That's where I've got a limitation I cannot measure timing on these pump at all. But I can tell you timing it set by temperature more so. So, the colder the IAT temperature and ECT temperature the more advancement the VP44 will have. This is because colder air takes more time to convert liquid fuel to vapor to ignite. The warmer the IAT the more retarding. Because the air is already warm fuel will convert quickly from liquid to vapor and ignite very quickly so less timing advancement is required. I can tell you that the MPG fooler works from the basis of fooling the ECM to seeing 143*F which retards timing and typically gives a about 2 MPG gain. When timing is good the engine should be a bit quieter and less rattle typically the EGT's fall even more.

The windows visors might keep the summer time insects out. I really hate when a be or hornet bounces off the mirror and hits me in the chest or manages to fall in my shirt. Man I really hate getting stung in the belly. Been there done that.