Mopar1973Man

This is one topic I really hate to jump into I always get met with AMSOil dealers and pusher. (sigh)

Site is backed up every day... You can see where I did a forced backup. No. I going to disable the delete function. I have for most of the site.

Well that a problem I don't have a local AMSOil dealer here locally. I'm not going to mail order my oil changes every time that just insane. Like trying to get Fleetguard filters is a 120 mile round trip to Grangeville to the Cummins dealer or 300 miles to Rocky Mountain Cummins. Just to freight part up is getting expensive. Like now I'm got agreements with the local part store which I have account with and mail carrier to deliver parts to me for nothing being I take care of her car. I should not have to mail order a oil change that's just plain silly. Now with speciality parts like injectors, injection pumps yes I can see mail ordering through other vendors like Vulcan Performance or DAP. So when I pay $11.59 for a oil filter and it takes another $20 bucks to be delivered that just not cost effective any longer. Still in all I could just remain stock and be fine. There is plenty of truck roaming around here without a bypass filter that have better than 1/2 million on them. I was flipping over to "Bob the Oil Guy" and reading post about some of the by pass filters and most still favored the Frantz filters. But the spin on style filter like most where making a size comparison like a hair is 80 microns, and blood s 8 micron. So like most said your covering for most of the damaging particles that the full flow is not dealing with. But now looking back now at the Frantz filter now you have such a wide size difference in toilet paper and sealing issues with the core stem and such. How are you going to be sure its working anymore? Again now you chip away cost and add in UOA and now doubled the price of your oil change again. So 10 micron spin on filter. Just peeking at AMSOIl filter cartridge at $50 to $60 bucks is plain out right insane. I don't care how good the name is and how good it filters no way... That's just way too expensive. Then add freight on that its going to be even more expensive. Hell my last oil change cost me $50 bucks for 3 gallon of Valvoline and a NAPA filter. So adding AMSOIL bypass would be better than $100 to $110... Sorry that too crazy. My pockets aren't that deep...

Here is another filter... Locally available. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Oil-Filter-Gold-/_/R-FIL1050_0297056267

Something like this... http://www.everythingtruckparts.com/baldwin-ob1305-by-pass-lube-filter-base/ http://www.everythingtruckparts.com/baldwin-b128-by-pass-lube-spin-on-filter/

There was a write up here time ago. Where a gent found a spin on bypass filter. He made his own bypass filter. Now I just got to find it in the Blackhole Database.

Yeah now I got to rebuild it again. Darn the luck. So I'll get fresh photos for the truck pictures and re-write the mods.

OMG! My eyes... No it more like all the toilet paper manufactures are changing things like core roll diameter and roll width. At first it was too bad and just change a spacer that Deborah provided me. But now the rolls are too narrow and go into the can too far. Just not sealing correctly any longer. Time to give up. Now that she sold the company and they seem to have custom fit rolls. I'm going to find a simple spin on filter to replace this mess with. Frantz Filter is now up to $469.95 for a price. I'm sure I can find a bypass filter and spin on base to use.

I've got a set of shims for the roll diameter differences but I have to now figure out a way to deal with narrower rolls. I can't get the seal to cut into the rolls anymore because they are too narrow now. So the last filter didn't do any good because the seal ring didn't cut into the roll like designed. Basically the can is too deep now.

Name: Dodge Ram (2002) Date Added: 30 April 2015 - 08:59 PM Owner: Mopar1973Man Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle

I can believe I done it. Some where down the line I managed to delete my own truck from the Garage section. Well I guess now I can rebuild my garage area for my 2002 Dodge...

Well today while doing my oil change I finally gave up on my Frantz Filter. I've had enough. Back when I got it was rather easy to just change filters (roll of toilet paper) and go on. Well now toilet paper is so different from brand to brand and now the length is wrong, core size is different, etc. Just a big pain in my to deal with now. So I'm pulling it off and removing it permanently. I'll be looking towards a better solution in time with a remote mount base and a spin on bypass filter some wrote up in the past. The other thing is I'm tired of the leaking lid all the time no matter what I do I've always got oil oozing out of the can. I'm tired of the oily mess and fighting the toilet paper rolls.

Cost more but should be better parts. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Control-Arm-Lower-Front-Susp/_/R-NCP2605576_0229547843

Maybe you should go into production. I'll gladly sell them here on the Mopar1973Man.Com site.

Cross over tube o-rings Cross over tube miss seated in the injector Return line leaking Fuel pressure gauge shouldn't be hooked up right at the injection pump. That is the strongest water hammer pulses and does the greatest amount of damage to fuel pressure gauges and fuel pressure senders. Fuel pressure gauges are best hooked up at the last filter and not the injection pump. This gives some buffer area in the filter also giving some distance from the water hammer source. As for the loss of prime run the truck and shutdown. Quickly pressurize the fuel tank with air so the fuel in the lines will be forced out of any leaks. Just use a rag and a air gun on a air compressor just need 1-2 PSI to make it weep and make a wet spot. Typically pressurized lines after the pump will leak naturally because of fuel pressure while running but suction side lines never leak. Because while running its sucking air in and when shut down it still sucking air in to purge out the prime.

IBMobile's design has the light outside the circuit for the switch. I understand why the lighted switch doesn't work because the light in the switch is on the same circuit as the torque converter clutch and drawing voltage and currant on that same circuit. Just like you can use lighted switch on the high idle mod or the MPG fooler because the light draws on the 5 volt signal and would mess up the voltage required. This why the rotary switch works well in Yankneck's design because a separate switch drove the light while another switch drove the resistors and sensor leads. So now looking at IBMobile's design it should work but the relationship between the APPS sensor and the transmission torque converter clutch is long way away from each other.

Well you'll have to get it home and open it up so we can see what happened.

Agreed... Even with stock tires I back down to 55 MPH and grab 4th (1:1 direct) and run the grades. It not "how fast" you can climb the grades but "how many" times can you do it.

I'm scratching my head... Monitor & Set Conditions Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Possible Causes 5-volt Supply At APPS Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground 5-volt Supply To Ground APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Ground APPS Signal Circuit Open To ECM PCM (APPS) Short To ECM Sensor Ground ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Shorted ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Open Short To ECM Sensor Ground Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) Engine Control Module Powertrain Control Module

Actually it wasn't JAG1 but TFaoro with the pump issues.

If it was me I would see about upgrading to HX35W turbo (12cm2 exhaust housing) and jump away from the HY35W turbo (9cm2 exhaust housing). I typically can pull 6-7% grades on the Edge Comp set to 5x3, 3" exhaust (mufflered), BHAF, with 25-30 PSI of boost and be right under 1,200*F with a 8,000 pound trailer behind me.

With the AirDog 150 is just mesh filter before the pump. But in your case you would have to run a actual fuel filter before the pump to protect the pump from eating itself. That kind of wear is from debris (fine) against the shaft and seal. Even diesel fuel is a mild lubricant and with 2 cycle oil should be no problems. So that leads me back debris issues.

Again... 3.55 gears here with 235/85 R16 tires (31 inch) and towing is awesome good power and pulling grades. 37" tires your going to need the 4.10's for sure. Also highly suggest the exhaust brake as well as the 3rd gen brake upgrade because of the leverage value those huge 37's put on the brakes.

I really do get scared when I see the ASE symbol on a shop any more. Just mean they are only book smart.

Done... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/membermap/ Just need a different color pin.