Mopar1973Man

I would gamble a wild guess at the door is starting to sag a bit and there is a small gap in the weather strip now. Check the hinges by open they door and lifting from the lower edge. The door should not rock up and down. If it does it would explain a bit of it. As the hinges wear the weather seal isn't as tight. Like on my 1996 Dodge Ram the passenger door is just starting to do this a little bit and is going to require a small amount of adjustment.

Like talkIng to Eric @ Vulcan performance Raptors tend to have the problems but full AirDog 100 or 150 seem to be fine.

Just my preference. There is Autometer, ISSPro, Westach, Glow Shift, etc. The reason I went for the EV2's was two fold. I wanted to figure out why all these people are having issues with electric gauges and figure out a solution. Second part was I learned that EV2's are programmable so you can set your alarm limits in the gauge to lit a red warning light or hook up a relay to trigger a device like maybe a fan or similar. That is the only reason I jumped for the EV2's. But as for pricing I would consider EV's (mechanical gauges). I originally came from DiPricol's which went out of business years ago. Another quality gauge but no where to be found now. Glowshift is consider a very low budget gauge. Still functional but there has been issues with use of the gauge. Once again the problems are based around the electric senders which I'm studying currently. Westach is a very good quality mechanical gauge but not very stylish. Lot of people like them because they are nearly bulletproof. Autometer is another well known gauge. But can be a bit pricey for the different styles.

Main listing of error codes http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins The P1690 code. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor

Here is my 24V write up. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/121-valve-lash-adjustment-cummins Here is the common rail write up. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/3rd-generation-dodge-cummins/53-engine-system/120-valve-adjustment-and-verification Basically both the same.

Intake manifold and exhaust will not change anything. People producing 500+ HP see a difference with those items. That's because of torque management. Once you break over 25 MPH the torque management is lifted and the power comes on full. Hit one of the vendors and tell them you coming from Mopar1973Man.Com and I'm pretty sure they will give a small discount. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/140-vendors-dealers/ EGT are directly relational to fuel consumed and load placed on the truck. If the proper gear and road speeds are used then the EGT's should be low and MPG should be high.

bjytech is right. The 10mm wrench will loosen the nut (maybe) like a few I've worked on I've had to use sockets and one I used a screwdriver and hammer to tap the nut to loosen. Make sure you snug that nut back up again. It might be the governor spring getting weak with age why the idle is sagging down.

How about bad alternator feeding too much AC noise into the system? Check out this video.

Anything that can and will reduce pressure from normal. Like I've had a a single manifold bolt pop out 6mm thread but 10mm head. That was enough to drop from 30 PSI to a max of 8 PSI. But then another leak I had was a loose intercooler boot it would hiss with a test cap but never leaked enough to reduce my max boost pressure abilities. Technically no one. But depends how you look at it. Smarty allows for fuel only or fuel and timing. But no fuel vs boost control. Edge doesn't give fuel and timing separate but does give boost vs fuel control. TST is strictly fuel only. Quadzilla is another wonderful box with even more controls possible but currently I'm unsure of the state of manufacture. I know DAP owns the company now. Why down? Assuming pop pressure. Higher pop pressure make for better atomization. Unless they changed nozzles and reduced the flow. So which is it? As for the VP44 there is a certain amount of variable posed by the Special X which I can't answer for. Timing, PSG programming differences, internal hardware differences, etc. The only thing I could suggest at this time before you spend money on parts is see if you can get a hold of known good stock VP44 and swap it in and see if there is a change of smoke amount. If so then for sure you can point the finger at the Special X as a possible cause and then consider you replacement then. I really do hate to suggest replacing high dollar parts without proof of a problem or failure of said part. Not to poke at anyone... But as for me I have a really hard time with the smoke and mirror the entire Bosch VP44 market has kept up for all these years. I'm personally tired of the hiding specs and data on the VP44. Now like P7100 or VE pumps you can find documents and specs on those all day long. Now VP44... "Oh we can't tell you that its a trade secret". I'm uncovering data slowly and finding documents and information and posting what I do find. Kind of a personal challenge. One day I will know what software is in the PSG unit top.

Absolutely. Brake bleeding will not cause ABS light issues. A failed speed sensors will set the lights.

"Dealer Warranty" back in 2004 at 50k miles. Before then it was "Dealer Warranty" lift pump at 48k miles. So unknown of the source or if it was a new pump or what. Still going strong. Even if it died today just short of 200k miles I still would not cry. 11 years and 195k miles (current stats) I'm very satisfied with the out come.

You could... Then see if the code comes back if it does after a short drive of 5-10 miles then you know the code is real. Then you'll need to resolve it by running the diagnostics.

I say its time to roll that block over and inspect the bearings and look at the pistons. It is a weird knock. Think of it this way at least you be fixing the problem before it get damaging.

As far as I know the AirDog 100 and AirDog 150 still use spring and check ball. Where all the Raptor series and the AirDog 165 uses a adjustable regulator. Even FASS 100 and FASS 150 kept the spring and check ball design as far as I know. More or less cap off the mouth of the turbo any way you can and pressurize the system with compressed air in the range of 10-20 PSI. Like my cap only holds up to about 10 PSI and started to slide off the lip of the turbo. But with a bottle of soap water solution you can spray down all the fittings, sensors, gaskets, etc. looking for bubbles. For simple gauges that are rock solid do the ISSPro EV series mechanical gauges. If you don't mind spending some money and design time get the EV2's electrics. Thoses are nice but remember you need to deal with remote mounting the pressure sensors away from the water hammer source of the VP44. Both my sensors are mounted on the fender and has over 5 foot of tubing in between the engine and the sensor for protection. Personally I'm not exactly fond of Edge CTS or CS systems. Come back to the old adage "Don't put all your eggs in one basket." Well you put your tuner, gauges and other things in one basket so when it fails you lose everything and pay even more for the replacement each time. Modular design is best so if you lose a EGT gauge just replace one gauge for $100 bucks instead of entire tuner for $1,100.

That's sure a weird. I didn't know that. Wow... Cummins/Dodge could of done a better job.

As of OBDII too you could use a OBDLink LX to read codes or erase codes. Cheaper than a ScanGauge II and much easier to use.

Sorry I can't answer that question because of damage to my pump I've got I can freely move the cam ring or the timing piston. (P0216 code) The bearing supports the cage end of the shaft for the roller and shoes. The tip of the pump is inserted into the middle of the roller and shoes. The vane pump is suppose to increase the pressure inside the pump but I can't find any specification of what the pressure is inside the pump. Then also remember the VP44 is the same speed as the cam or 1/2 the speed of thee crank. so idle of 850 RPM's is a pump speed of 425 RPM's. Early version pumps use a rubber disk in here that could be damaged by low fuel pressure which cause it to tear or break. So Bosch rebuilder automatically voided warranty after finding a broken / tore diaphragm. So from my pump the 027 Rev pumps are steel plate so it really hard to tear / break that. There is 4 ways to kill a VP44... Dirty Power (AC noise from the alternator) Low Fuel pressure (Less than 14 PSI) Poor Filtration Poor Fuel Lubricity (> 450 HFRR Score) You might want to pull the regulator and check it for damage or wear. If the regulator is hanging up or sticking then I can see why the pressure is falling. I never did like the adjustable fuel pressure Raptors or AirDog's. The old school spring and check ball work 1,000 times better.

Exactly. The shoe rides against the piston inn the pump the rollers follow the cam ring.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/229-p1690-vp44-ckp-sensor-does-not-agree-with-ecm-ckp-sensor Did you have any tachometer issues? Any crank or cam sensor codes too?

No. For a quality fan clutch designed for a Cummins engine. Cheap autozone clutches are not designed correctly hence the weird constant lockup. Like I said above the last one I purchased for a friend was $111 bucks for his 1992 Dodge Cummins. NAPA fan clutch. A Cummins clutch would be even more. As for flex fans won't work nor will electric fans. Not enough CFM of air movement.

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/146-p0112-intake-air-temp-sensor-voltage-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/167-p0237-map-sensor-voltage-too-low http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/216-p1475-auxiliary-5-volt-output-too-high Only ground you got to clean is the battery cable. All other body grounds are for accessories (lights, horn, etc.) The ECM, PCM and VP44 are only grounded to the battery cable. 2002 MAP sensors are no longer made and everyone uses the 2001 MAP sensor in place of with a adapter harness but before you do this follow the diagnostics links above.

Sound like someone needs to do a porting write up for exhaust manifolds.

Electric windows have a circuit breaker in the fuse panel on the driver's side of the dash. Fan motor could be wore out or siezed. Blown fuse. Most likely under the hood in the PDC. Airbag light is most likely the clockspring in the steering column... Small donation to the site will get you too... The wiring diagram. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/file/65-1997-dodge-ram-wiring-diagramszip/

The only thing I would add that I don't see in the signature is head studs.

Correction. Rear sensor goes to the ABS module.