Mopar1973Man

You never know...

Hotmail blacklisted the site and no hotmail or live account have been functional for awhile. So I apologize for the email issues. I'm still working on the email issue right now I got to jump through some more hoops.

Time to use some dielectric grease on connectors...

Ahhh.. You want a flat mount face? I've got one on my desk right now you can have...

Yes. If you got a-pillar tweeter you do have the premium sound system. So... Now you got to verify the amp is getting signal and that the amp is actually working.

I get the everyday NAPA belts no issues in 242k miles. The only secret I can give is install the belt so the brand name is readable from the front (not up-side-down). So if you ever pull the belt you can re-install it the same way to prevent squeaking. Other than that standard belts work just fine.

But... Did you ohm the wiring out from ABS unit to the rear sensor?

Standard stereo or premium? If its standard I would say the stereo itself. If its premium then I would sat either the amp on the back of the front speaker or the stereo itself.

There is a good one but its pricey ask AH64ID about his amp meter. Even my big house inverter does NOT have a DC amp meter but only AC amp meters. Like Today my max load was about 20 Amps and producing 3-4 AC amps worth of solar power.

ABennin you might want to peel the protective paper off the high idle switch face plate.

Correct. The front two sensor have zero bearing on the speedometer only the rear sensor takes care of the speedometer and odometer.

I left my controller hard wired up. I just turn the solar controller off when the panels are not used. Actually if you wanted to you can leave the controller on all the time to monitor the actual battery voltage even hooked up to AC power. It will not damage the solar controller. No different than my big solar system is hooked up 24/7 to the batteries and selling power back to the city power system. The little black box on the right.

Typically if the ABS light is on then there is a problem within the ABS system be it sensors or ABS controller.

Funny part is all tail light wiring is grounded to the front left fender side shield. So there is no ground connection even back at the tail of the truck to look for.

I've seen things like Lucas Steering additives blow hose and seals because it makes the fluid too thick in cold weather. Make sure to use the proper fluid and don't add additives to the fluid.

Ok. What I would do is pull the bulb out and then carefully using test leads to place positive and negative power on the right contacts and see whats going on. If the LED's are burnt out or damaged then I guess it's time for replacement.

Got me wondering as well...

On our truck the oil pressure sender is wired to the ECM. So verify the ECM to the sender wiring. Now beyond that the oil pressure data is sent over the CCD network to the cluster. Since the rest of the cluster is working I know its not the CCD network. Oil Pressure Sensor => ECM -> [CCD Network] -> Instrument Cluster

That my next project I need to get new rubber on the truck and trailer. Quote from my tire guy in Ontario, OR is about $680 for the truck and $400 for the trailer.

I would say do as instructed in the document. Then go back in a few days and run the pattern again at final torque setting again.

Still think that's neat...

So I like my hair lighter and longer. Guys here love to pick on my hair. There is story behind it why I'm this way...

2004 should be ATF fluid.

http://www.livescience.com/32401-whats-a-penny-made-of.html So just like on ships and boat in the ocean they use zinc blocks to prevent oxidation of metals. Your solution is cheap only cost a few cents.

Welcome to the family... On your way to Montana you might want to stop by my place in New Meadows, ID... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/membermap/