Mopar1973Man

Injector o-rings or front seal on the VP44 are your 2 sources for fuel leaks. There is one other which is a bad injector(s) that are stuck open. Just like a CR engine if stuck open it won't change much other than make it hard starting. The bad injector will blow fuel spray on the cylinder walls instead of the piston bowl .

I'm currently running with my BRAKE and ABS lights on. I know my front sensors are bad and need replacing. As for you Hex you issue is going to be a rear sensor being your speedometer.

Cowboy stopped posting about it in the spring. Cowboy is the one that was gathering the group up and getting the chat going. So no there has been any chatroom activity in about 2-3 months now. If you want to start it you can...

Nothing to hide... I'm 44 years old (October 26, 1970).

Might find one in the FSM. IIRC.

Shiny snail... How about the engine? I seen a lot of part pictures how about pictures with the parts assembling? (Yes I'm picking on you!)

Talk to Cowboy he's the one in charge of chat nights.

Absolutely!

Oh feel the love being tossed around here.

Here is my setup with 3" exhaust and NAPA muffler. Notice the cab is really quiet and the note is way different. No drone.

Cool. Might be a winter time project.

About a one hour job to run though the seals on the lines. But if they are not leaking don't mess with them. You might grab a UV light and look over the system quickly looking for UV dye. If the low side port is leaking a cap will not stop the leak. I've been lucky a few times to cycle my lo side hose on and off the fitting a few times and get it to seal again. If not then that hose will have to be replaced.

Would some be kind enough to create an article of this information for the different generations of trucks?

One day I'll have to the valve seals in my beast that doesn't look too hard to do. Curious who's valve spring tool is that it not Torky Tekonologies.

If the key doesn't move with finger pressure then it should be fine. But if it does move your best to super glue the key in place. I've had them spin up on me and block the shaft from going in. Then careful pull it back out to re-seat the key with glue. Make sure the arrow is pointing towards the pump.

Like one gent called me with a CCD network issue I told him to cycle all the plugs and magically it all went away. So maybe the same thing is true.

AirBag system has a problem. The computer will only reset the issue after the repair has been made. It might just be a bad connection. Go over all the airbag wiring and double check all connections. DANGER! Make sure to do this while the battery is disconnected. Also make sure to disconnect the battery and leave alone for at least 10-15 minutes before starting work. I would hate to see you get injured by deploying a airbag by accident.

Yesterday getting ready for the 4th of July Fireworks fires... My new Engine 11 Ford 7.3L Diesel.

Your title states... So I've been looking at ways of improving your MPG's being that is the subject title. If it was change to "Water/Meth Injection for Better Power" you would get a change of answers instantly. But I've been designing my answers to fit the MPG angle that the title suggest and making power a secondary category. But never mind... I'm backing down...

So the next problem will be the MPG will go lower now with larger injectors. EGT's will go up more when unspooled which will be the smog issue next. Also with California smog regulations you going to have to watch your smoke emissions too might get a smoking ticket?

Hua? Piston seal OE Mopar Seals. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5017170&cc=1440064&jnid=491&jpid=0 Full caliper rebuilt kit for $4 a piece. ($16 for all 4) https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2046132&cc=1440064&jnid=492&jpid=3 Slide pin boots. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3053931&cc=1440064&jnid=493&jpid=0

Did you rinse the fitting out with brake cleaner or ether to verify its not from being uncoupled from the charging hose?

Like said on the bottom of the table... Personally I would of nudged the high side pressure up just a bit more just passed 200 PSI for those temps. No higher than about 250 PSI. More or less getting a balance of liquid to vapor in the system.

Nope never did. Just re-adjust the upper hinge a little and keep going. I was talking to a local rancher and he's got the same problem to I got to get down there and fix his door too. Just light readjustment. I will admit that full hinge replacement is the proper way of fixing the door. If you can get away with a mild readjustment go for it.

Typically because brake fluid was allowed to age and eat the rubber liner in the hose. If you change you brake fluid every 30k miles this won't happen. Do you hold stock in brake fluid producing companies?