Mopar1973Man

Name: Dodge Ram (2002) Date Added: 30 April 2015 - 08:59 PM Owner: Mopar1973Man Short Description: None Provided View Vehicle

I can believe I done it. Some where down the line I managed to delete my own truck from the Garage section. Well I guess now I can rebuild my garage area for my 2002 Dodge...

Well today while doing my oil change I finally gave up on my Frantz Filter. I've had enough. Back when I got it was rather easy to just change filters (roll of toilet paper) and go on. Well now toilet paper is so different from brand to brand and now the length is wrong, core size is different, etc. Just a big pain in my to deal with now. So I'm pulling it off and removing it permanently. I'll be looking towards a better solution in time with a remote mount base and a spin on bypass filter some wrote up in the past. The other thing is I'm tired of the leaking lid all the time no matter what I do I've always got oil oozing out of the can. I'm tired of the oily mess and fighting the toilet paper rolls.

Cost more but should be better parts. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Control-Arm-Lower-Front-Susp/_/R-NCP2605576_0229547843

Maybe you should go into production. I'll gladly sell them here on the Mopar1973Man.Com site.

Cross over tube o-rings Cross over tube miss seated in the injector Return line leaking Fuel pressure gauge shouldn't be hooked up right at the injection pump. That is the strongest water hammer pulses and does the greatest amount of damage to fuel pressure gauges and fuel pressure senders. Fuel pressure gauges are best hooked up at the last filter and not the injection pump. This gives some buffer area in the filter also giving some distance from the water hammer source. As for the loss of prime run the truck and shutdown. Quickly pressurize the fuel tank with air so the fuel in the lines will be forced out of any leaks. Just use a rag and a air gun on a air compressor just need 1-2 PSI to make it weep and make a wet spot. Typically pressurized lines after the pump will leak naturally because of fuel pressure while running but suction side lines never leak. Because while running its sucking air in and when shut down it still sucking air in to purge out the prime.

IBMobile's design has the light outside the circuit for the switch. I understand why the lighted switch doesn't work because the light in the switch is on the same circuit as the torque converter clutch and drawing voltage and currant on that same circuit. Just like you can use lighted switch on the high idle mod or the MPG fooler because the light draws on the 5 volt signal and would mess up the voltage required. This why the rotary switch works well in Yankneck's design because a separate switch drove the light while another switch drove the resistors and sensor leads. So now looking at IBMobile's design it should work but the relationship between the APPS sensor and the transmission torque converter clutch is long way away from each other.

Well you'll have to get it home and open it up so we can see what happened.

Agreed... Even with stock tires I back down to 55 MPH and grab 4th (1:1 direct) and run the grades. It not "how fast" you can climb the grades but "how many" times can you do it.

I'm scratching my head... Monitor & Set Conditions Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Possible Causes 5-volt Supply At APPS Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground 5-volt Supply To Ground APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Ground APPS Signal Circuit Open To ECM PCM (APPS) Short To ECM Sensor Ground ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Shorted ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Open Short To ECM Sensor Ground Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) Engine Control Module Powertrain Control Module

Actually it wasn't JAG1 but TFaoro with the pump issues.

If it was me I would see about upgrading to HX35W turbo (12cm2 exhaust housing) and jump away from the HY35W turbo (9cm2 exhaust housing). I typically can pull 6-7% grades on the Edge Comp set to 5x3, 3" exhaust (mufflered), BHAF, with 25-30 PSI of boost and be right under 1,200*F with a 8,000 pound trailer behind me.

With the AirDog 150 is just mesh filter before the pump. But in your case you would have to run a actual fuel filter before the pump to protect the pump from eating itself. That kind of wear is from debris (fine) against the shaft and seal. Even diesel fuel is a mild lubricant and with 2 cycle oil should be no problems. So that leads me back debris issues.

Again... 3.55 gears here with 235/85 R16 tires (31 inch) and towing is awesome good power and pulling grades. 37" tires your going to need the 4.10's for sure. Also highly suggest the exhaust brake as well as the 3rd gen brake upgrade because of the leverage value those huge 37's put on the brakes.

I really do get scared when I see the ASE symbol on a shop any more. Just mean they are only book smart.

Done... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/membermap/ Just need a different color pin.

I guess it time to build the same thing here I know there is Smarty owners here on the site as well.

They did... 2003 Common Rail and up.

Like myself I clear 30k miles a year so it gets 3-4 oil changes a year or one every 3 month roughly.

This year I won't have all the slow rolling back woods as much. As a matter of fact I've got the trailer hitched up this morning and heading to a log yard in New Meadows, Idaho to get a load of Red Fir for $100 a cord. So all my firewood hauling this year will be highway running.

Go to the top and click on your user name a menu will drop down. Your profile and other stuff will be there. As for photos. In the lower right is "More Reply Options" then the text will re-open will more stuff like attachment options etc.

Like Pepsi71Ocean taught me a while back its possible to fool sensors and create problems too. Like him he was paranoid of hot shutdowns on the VP44 so he used a fan to cool the VP44 all the time. What would happen is the truck will start up and run backwards. So it's possible with the Smarty and IAT fooler or both is causing your issues. Like I said try dropping the IAT and then try it again without the Smarty.

From the FMCSA web site... http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/regulations/title49/section/393.67 (4) Drains and bottom fittings. (i) Drains or other bottom fittings must not extend more than three-fourths of an inch below the lowest part of the fuel tank or sump. (ii) Drains or other bottom fittings must be protected against damage from impact. (iii) If a fuel tank has drains the drain fittings must permit substantially complete drainage of the tank. (iv) Drains or other bottom fittings must be installed in a flange or spud designed to accommodate it. (5) Fuel withdrawal fittings. Except for diesel fuel tanks, the fittings through which fuel is withdrawn from a fuel tank must be located above the normal level of fuel in the tank when the tank is full. So I guess it legal if I'm reading that right. Here is a bit more I found... https://www.transferflow.com/regulations

No. The overflow valve will continue to flow fuel as long as supplied fuel pressure is above 14 PSI.

Doesn't speak to good about BlueChip to have 2 pumps fail in a month.