Mopar1973Man

http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?app=garage&do=item_list&search_term=1794&search_field=member_id&search_method=exact 184k miles and 5 pumps. That's only 36,800 miles per pump. These were all weak point through the REVisions of the VP44 from the start to the end which is 027. I don't know of any other changes. I'm sure revisions started in the release of the VP44.

Dripley the last I knew was having personal issues and would come back when he was ready. My best guess would be to ohm out the wiring for the cruise control. DANGER! WARNING! Be careful about suppling voltage to the air bag module you might trip it off. So I suggest you unhook the batteries and wait 15 minutes and then unplug the air bag module. Then you can test against the cruise control buttons. Each one should have a different resistance.

About right it's a boat anchor. It the new Ford 6.4L diesel. I've worked around a few of those and absolutely hate them. Just un-real the amount of BS in the way you have to remove to just find a valve cover or a head. This is why I love looking back at the past and holding tight to my 24 valve 2nd Gen truck because I know it works and its simple to repair. This is a good reason to hold on to your Grandfather 1st gen and leave it unmolested. You won't find them like that any more that's for sure... Kind of like looking back at old school muscle cars and how little was under the hood just engine. Now today there is so much stuff you can't find the top of the engine if you wanted to.

Might want to hop on the member map function and throw a tack up of where you live. At least city and state.

So he's no better. Just our VP44 pumps cost less than his 8 injectors.

Donations have to be done from the Full site version. At the top of the navigation bar will be Donation Button. Posting pictures also have to be done from the full site version. If the full site version when you posting at the bottom of the post box it will have the "Add Attachment" function. The newer forum software is suppose to have better mobile functions over my current version. I'm just waiting for Beta test and the first version to go by.

Either... http://sinisterdiesel.com/i-16504546-dipaco-dual-stage-fuel-pump-with-pump-mounted-driver-for-gm-1994-2003-6-5l.html?gclid=CKOznYnDlMUCFY6RfgodNGEAhQ http://www.fordiesels.com/gm-duramax-bosch-cp3-high-pressure-injector-pump-97720662-2001-2004/?gclid=COC9yZrDlMUCFdKIfgod0hcAeA I'm not sure but that what a quick Google search turned up.

I've seen his setup in person but like I dummy I didn't get a picture of it. I did find his old write up... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/8113-truck-bed-tank-module-access-pics/

I really do love old stock trucks that are unmolested. Looking back at a simpler time versus today where you can hardly find a engine under all the tubes, wiring and BS. Ford 6.4L Cummins 6.7L

Next go around flip back to normal IAT.

I got to ask the question do you have a filter before the pump? I wonder if just the pure debris value of the fuel is enough to eat the shaft up. That is odd the seal did wear out first.

Some of have computer scattered around the house so I can keep up with the site. So like right now I'm reading over the site as I lay in bed for evening.

If you just flash a Smarty tune and then return to stock the high idle is enabled. That is how I got my high idle enabled.

Shouldn't. MAP sensor should adjust to elevation and sense atmospheric pressure changes. Unless your MAP sensor has failed within limits which will not throw a code. Possible. Colder the IAT temperature the more advanced the timing. Warmer the IAT the less timing.

But the weather is nicer here...

OMG... JAG1 (Michael) want to have a get together here so maybe I could get all the "Mike's" together in one spot... Just a idea...

I'll have to dig out the owners manual again and take a peek at the Schedule B. But I'm not going to change every 3k that's plain nuts. Even the 1996 is set for 6k miles for V8 gasser. I was of the mind set of changing every 3k on the gasser when I first got it but then started to realize the oil was still rather clean. So I read the manual at switched to 6k and it just barely darkens by then. That's a 6 quart system. Now my Cummins is a 12 quart system (mine is plus one from the extra filter) and I would have to change at 3k... Not happening. Funny part is both trucks get used around here doing trailer hauling and wood hauling too.

I got a phone call from a Michael West in the McCall, Idaho area. He had question about a high idle box he had in his truck. It looks like one of the older one that a gent made over in Cummins Forum. (Can't remember the name). But we had a nice long talk about Cummins Diesels and different things. He's got a beautiful 2001 Dodge Cummins White short bed with 35" tires. Very clean. But now he wants to get into the economy mode and longevity part. So I gave him the quick lesson on diesel and tuning and how it works. Mike doesn't own a computer but he does have a smart phone. So his limited on abilities on the site hopefully he creates a account to hang out. Mike did say he'll be coming back to have me do more work on his truck very soon. I expect him to call me again. On a side note... What is it about Michael's? I'm one, then there is JAG1 (Michael) that spent a week here, now another Michael comes to hang out. No one yell Michael or Mike around here... You never know who might come running...

That's fried for sure. Wow!

20,000 mile oil changes roughly every 3-4 weeks. So at 60 MPH which was CajFlynn average speed that's about 333 hours on the oil. So doing a UOA at 2,500 or 5,000 isn't exactly a requirement. Like myself I run 7-10k miles on oil changes. Owners manual states 7,500 miles for 2nd Gen 24V oil changes.

Return line should be fine factory sized. It's just the supply line that is not big enough. That is a option for most pavement queens. I would just check with local laws ans see if there is any problems with bottom draw tanks being used on highway. There is a reason the fuel is supplied out of the top for safety reasons. As for me I'm still looking from a distance at the sump idea just worry a bunch about the snagging on debris like tree limbs and logs that I run over. I managed to push a dent in the passenger floor in the back seat years ago from just running over a small log. The other problem I would see for city folks is anyone what to steal your diesel fuel will have a handy drain right there. Just unscrew the fuel line and all the diesel you can carry will drain out. I know I've seen reports of fuel thieves using cordless drills and pop a hole in the tank and drain it out.

If it was me. I would change at least the engine oil and fuel filter before starting up. Then change the rest of the fluid once you get home. 58,408 miles as Google converts... That truck is very very low in miles.

Ok... So what class do you have to be in to worry about oil analysis and what class do you have to be in to not worry about it like Cajflynn?

Thanks JAG1... Now everyone eat your heart out...

Like myself I'm a long distance from everything so every time I fire up it's not a 3-5 mile trip to the store but more like 70-120 miles trip to the store. Like now working from home when 6pm rolls around its a 40 mile round trip to New Meadows for my parts when I do have a parts order. So I'm not the typical driver myself. This year I won't be going into the back country much at all for firewood. So I'll have mostly highway miles.