Mopar1973Man

Here I am hanging out with the Dodge Owners...

Funny... I was over on the RV site I moderate and people are so worried about seeing behind the trailer they are installing WiFi camera on the back of the RV. Like I mention on that thread is if you could see some one tailgating your RV what can you do about it? Nothing. So having a good set of mirrors and being able to see along side the trailer is a good thing.

Yeah... I'm going to jump on a 200*F this winter to try it out.

Maybe we need to create a get together for this year?

Like my clip on don't shake normally. But now that I put my bug deflector back on the front of the truck now they mildly shake because of the air disturbance the deflector creates.

Thermostat is stuck open. Time to flush it out and change the thermostat.

What the whole deal is boost pressure is what is creating the heat to make the fuel burn. So bigger injectors typically have larger droplets so require more heat to convert the fuel from a liquid state to vapor to BOOM!. So smaller injectors have smaller droplets so less heat is required to covert the fuel to ignite. So as pour more fuel in you create more drive pressure on the turbine so now you can create more boost pressure. But efficiency or MPG is created more so in low to zero boost pressure. More boost with fuel will not create more power. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature So in a nutshell that is what makes a diesel engine go. More boost create more pressure or heat in the cylinder which allows the engine to burn more fuel. Adding to much fuel without enough boost can't consume or convert all the fuel so most of the fuel is wasted. Hence why I suggest fuel management over bigger turbo because even with a bigger turbo its going to lag more so and create more smoke than actually cleaning it up. Look back in history the 1st Gen Cummins had a H1C turbo with a 20cm2 exhaust housing and no wastegate. This turbo was so big on the turbine side it had zero restriction and no heat issues for the tiny 160 HP engine that it was. Now today most truck have HX35W with a 12cm2 exhaust housing but later automatics have a 9cm2 exhaust housing to reduce lag time to keep soot emissions down. Actually if Nick (Me78569) would hurry up with the beta testing of his VGT turbo setup we all might convert to that.

I was screwed on that deal too I use to get PayPal to just issue a check and then pay the bills here locally. But now PayPal required the bank account thing so I created a new account at my local bank so now I can just transfer the money there and still pay the site bills. Think that's bad Google AdSense is worse you need to provide bank account, W-9 with social security, just too much information but for the site I stuck my neck out there. So there is a trend to move towards a cashless world and more electronic funds or banking. Bad part is you guys have options still to donate by credit card, paypal, personal check or cash (if your crazy). But for me I'm stuck and most hang in for the long haul for the site.

Turbo won't do any good unless you drive with your foot in the carpet. Like my truck cruising at 55 MPH I'm 1-2 PSI of boost may 3-4 PSI boost at 65 MPH. Bigger turbo will just add more lag time and more smoke. What you need is to limit the fuel till the turbo lights up. So technically I'm running 170 HP injector but actually running 120 HP tuner on top of 50hp injectors. But since the tuner gives me fuel vs. boost management I can control smoke levels. When injector nozzle are created they can produce the hole all different ways. Some methods leave the holes rather jagged and rough which makes for poor atomization like Edge Jammers are known for being really smoky injectors. Where other injectors cost more because the holes are honed out and smoothed so the spray pattern is better quality. Now if you have a boost gauge I would monitor at the point that boost hits and it clears up. This would give you a clue to what setting you would need to use for a module to clean up the smoke. As for internal damage to the pintle would be caused from dirt fuel and/or poor quality filers. If there is no debris in the fuel it should wear out technically unless you using a lot of cetane booster and injector cleaners. Here is a basic view of our injectors... The only thing about that picture is our injectors get fuel from the side of the body not the top. 12V are this way...

Better the atomization the cleaner the burn. The bigger the droplets get the smokier and dirty the burn becomes. Less efficiency. The whole idea is to push as much fuel as you can in fog like atomization. But if the injector start to squirt in a stream then it turns out more smoky.

No. Because you good the way your are without noise filter. Do NOT add extra grounds, tin foil or noise filters these are all band-aids to bigger issues and just cover up the problem but never fix it. You can try the APPS sensor but I would check charging AC voltage too. Typically I don't start suggesting parts till some diagnostics are done.

More... http://bgr.com/2015/06/04/paypal-user-agreement-robocalls-autotext-opt-out/

As for the Robocalls I can weed those out rather easy. I just peek at the CallerID and if its a number that is PRIVATE, UNKNOWN, 800, etc. I don't bother picking it up. Like my cell phone (TracFone) calls me when my plan is ready to terminate because of lack of time. No biggy I get the message still on the answer machine but I don't have to listen to it instantly. Sad to say no matter how much the main stream media wants claim that everything is going great... I hate to say it's not. If so why would large companies like Paypal resort to changes like this in hopes of promoting more business or income?

Did you watch the video I did?

Funny I just got back from that road.

It's not the turbo which is going to make a cleaner burn but proper use of fuel management vs. boost. Like with stock injectors I could run 5x5 on the Edge Comp. Now with the +50hp injectors I've got to back down to 5x3 to control smoke. The difference is 3rd sublevel is 67% of stock fuel till 10 pounds of boost. Where 5th sublevel is full fuel at 0 boost. There is other factors like IAT temperatures which will make it smoke more. Colder IAT typically is smoker where warmer air is cleaner burning.

Man... That's what the site uses for collecting the donations...

I'm towing either my 31' foot Jayco Eagle RV or my BigTex 70TV. Yesterday I broke my passenger side mirror again trying to re-adjust the clips-on I got. So I took the driver side and move to the passenger side. The passenger side is my limited viewing side so it works out fine. Matter of fact just rolled in the door just minutes ago.

What you describing is a "Limited pedal" and which could be a ECM failing from excess alternator noise. Do you have a noise filter on the PCM?

(Server Error) is the site mod trying to go back and read the page title and change it to the page title. Something about that server doesn't agree.

Here you go... http://www.eclipse2017.org/2017/path_through_the_US.htm

Both valid ways of handling a issue might be tougher pinching a tube shut if its on the front side low on the face. Now if it high on the face and you can get to it easy sure pinch it off. But do remember if you don't get it the first time there is no soldering it close since its a aluminium it would be way different if it was old school brass. This is why mention after getting a new radiator to make sure to flush the block out and replace the thermostat. Because we are coming back around to the problem at hand why did the tube spring a leak? More than likely the coolant is corrosive and ate the tube thin. Also during the flush you'll get a very large amount of sealant back out.

Hence what I said above. Most people dump the tube instantly in the radiator causing this problem. If poured in SLOWLY and allowed to mix that problem will not occur. A matter of fact I've got a tube in the 96 Dodge Ram with no problems just like I said pour it in slowly and allow it to mix with the coolant. Best on a hot engine be be careful of opening the cap that you don't get sprayed with hot coolant. Another way to get around this is dump the tube in a gallon jug of 50/50 mix and shake then add the jug to the system.

Can you explain this... What is not so friendly about it?