Mopar1973Man

Rather odd just gave them a call as well and it only a BLM restriction along the US95 area from New Meadows toward Grangeville. It not a USFS yet. The gent I talk said this coming week it might change again dues the dryness in the area. But he did mention the Yes Payette USFS did post the sign and yes the fire restriction are imposed current in my area. (Zone 4). Give it time it will change again. As far as I can say even my Fire Chief is held to the Stage II restrictions as well.

Might check again Payette has the No Fires LED sign up in Payette forest with the sandwich board there too. Right at the top of smokey Boulder Mile post 171 roughly. Nez isn't till Pinehurst.

Different issue. Low freon is at the other side of the spectrum. As freon pressures drop on the lo side the the temperature continues to drop below freezing point which the lo side switch cut off the compressor. The lo side switch is designed to prevent freeze up of the evaporator. So you need to add freon to bring the lo side pressure above 30 PSI typically charge to 35-40 PSI to get a solid locked compressor and a system that is sweating. Typically with lo freon you'll also see low hi side pressures as well like 100-120 PSI which isn't enough pressure to work the orifice tube. About 200-250 PSI is about optimal for our trucks depending on temperatures of course. But to be bumping the high side switch is because you heated all the freon above normal like in my case in a hot shop, door closed and hot engine warming everything up. Then start the truck and have a unlocked fan and pumping freon till it overheats and no longer can stay with hi side limits and start venting. (>450 PSI).

What coolant temps are you running? How about boost and EGT's?

Now you understand the feedback I use to gaining MPG's. Now if you set up the Scangauge II to display MPG, current MPG for the day and Current MPG for the tank then you can see the effects in all worlds. Also toss IAT up and watch the effects of IAT vs. MPG.

Correction. Need to see above 1000*F to burn carbon off.

I just ran into this problem but I'm pretty sure I know what happen in my case. What had happened was I made a trip to town and put my truck back in the shop and closed the door. Wasn't but a short time later I get a call to do firewood hauling. I pulled the truck out and set the A/C for MAX A/C and proceeded on hitching up the trailer. I start noticing the compressor pulling really hard on the engine and cycling rapidly. Thought that was odd I got back in the truck the vents were blow warm air. Compressor still cycling. Then I head the compressor struggle and then started venting freon. I knew then what was going on I shut down the A/C and left it off till I was rolling. I did open the hood and look and the fan was FULLY UNLOCK and barely turning. So what has happen the freon was preheated and pressure were to high and kicking out on the high side pressures till it got so high it was venting to protect the system (around 450 PSI). After I was on my way and got coolant up to temp and the fan was partial locked now the A/C worked just fine the rest of the day. So now experiencing this and seeing post in the past about warm A/C at stops I wonder if the fan is not properly locking and keeping air moving and the high side is shutting it down. Another possible occurrence is using Quickie Can with the hose included those typically have a oil charge with them and it possible to over charge with too much oil causing that problem. I've seen where condenser coils are so packed with bugs that air doesn't flow and freon temperatures and pressure sky rocket. Like today I took the time and fired up the pressure washer and slowly worked my way across the condenser, intercooler and radiator being careful not to get to close to the coolers.Today again it reached a 100*F here at my house. So keeping radiators, intercoolers and condensers cleaned is priority. So if your fan clutch is not locking properly to keep air flow moving the condenser will for sure get too hot and drive the high side pressure to trip the high side switch. So think air flow when the A/C is getting warm at stops.

Check this out rather cool.

This picture might be listed as a bit border lined... Click show button to see...

No joke. Pun intended...

Ummm... You might want to read... http://www.autoblog.com/2009/12/28/coolant-color/

Welcome to the family Vini. As for the signature... Upper right corner of the screen is your user name "vini" now click on it. A menu will popup. Select Settings. Now on the left side should be Signature. Click and fill it in. As for 6.7L help talk to AH64ID or Wild & Free they are both good 6.7L tech on the site. As for asking question ask lots of question and be afraid of being a bother. That's what we are here for to help other people learn about their trucks. Again Welcome to the Family!

Talk about getting 4 cords of firewood in under 3 hours. I delivered 2 cords to a good friend down the road and bought 2 cords for myself. So I've got a great guy in New Meadows named Mike Dezey. He has his own logging business. So when there is a damaged log than isn't going to accepted by the mill he cuts the damaged chunk out and hauls this stuff home. Then turns around and sell red fir for $100 a cord or $200 for my trailer load. Spurce is $80 a cord. But with Stage II fire restriction this is a awesome option but even his pile is running out.

Hmmm. The thing is checks are out of date. Like I'm also converted over to all electronic means of payment as well. The problem is hackers going after large name brand stores more so. Like I've had my debt card hot swapped twice now. Because of the fact I had used it in different stores like Home Depot and WalMart. Even if I used a credit card still in the same boat. So I stick mostly to using the debt card for bill payment with the phone company and other things like this. So far I've never had a single issue with PayPal or my debt card usage paying the bills. So if you created a donation page on your site and linked Paypal to that page then you have a means of collection. Then you'll have to bind the Paypal to bank account preferably separate from the actual operational account (if your worried). Like M73M has it own account and Paypal is bound to it. So transferring fund back and forth can occur. Typical 3 days to transfer fund either way. In the past I was doing the long and hard way issuing a check, actually travelling to the bank to deposit the fund, then writing out the check and mailing. Pay for the fuel to travel 40 miles to deposit the check, then pay for the checks to be produced, etc. Way to much involvement with to many hands to lose the funds or be late with payments. As for checks they found ways to ink wash a check and re-write it out for thieves own purpose. So is a check safer?

From what I can find it a cruise control error always high. P0577 1T: Cruise Control Switch Signal High Input http://engine-codes.com/p0577.html

Vais01 do you happen to have a full listing of those codes? Maybe be worth publishing in the article database for others to see.

In the winter time when I was working at my fire station on vehicles I would drive away from the house another 5-10 miles to turn around come back home. This provided two things... One a good charge on the batteries because once the engine temp came up the batteries charge better. Also getting the engine to full operational temperature.

So I guess its time for other to go out and ask other members "What's up?" and see about coming back. I know some folks have sold there trucks or having other family issues.

Hate to say it but way better diagnostic tool that ScanGauge II. http://www.obdlink.com/ But ScanGauge II is a way better trip computer. Here is my old post... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/9895-obdlink-lx-and-android-tablet/

CANBUS started with the 2nd Gen's and continue to develop more so later. OBDLink MX has a WiFi series for iPhones. https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/smart-phone/obdlink-mxwf.html This is just a sample of the what I was chasing after to give me the abilities to hack into the CANBUS and read engine data. This will be more of a winter project. Program manual for OBDLink LX https://www.scantool.net/downloads/98/stn1100-frpm.pdf

That's the first time I really looked at the wiring diagram... All I can say is Wow that's a confusing mess.

Basically the same as my OBDLink LX bluetooth dongle. The only I've seen so far is the OBDLink is use a bit more for CANBUS or CDD hacking. In other words lets say you want to take control of different things over the network some have grab stereo controls or lighting controls over the dongle. Both units use the same software basically. Comes back to the ELM327 chip and how much they designed to use of it.

It shifts at about 3,500 on the tach just touching the yellow zone on the tach. Red line If I remember right is 4k.

Problem is that with timing advancement the torque curve move up in RPM so advancing timing makes the power harder to reach during the cold operation forcing to rev higher. Then also the design was advance the timing to hopefully give enough time to convert liquid fuel to vapor to go BOOM. That liquid to vapor process takes longer if the cylinders and the air is colder. Make matters worse the 24V engine is the lowest compression ratio engine of all the engines to date. (SO @ 16.3:1 or HO @ 17.0:1) Even older 12 Valves where 17.5 or better IIRC.

No. It over advances the timing. This why I created the MPG fooler to RETARD the timing and bring it back to normal. When IAT and ECT temps fall the timing is advanced hard and rattling is very obvious. Then just flipping the MPG fooler on the rattle is GONE. It becomes quieter and and MPG's rise about a average of 2 MPG. Now I've got to clarify something. RACING/ HIGH PERFORMANCE Yes. You want to have a cold air intake. This is a must to controlling high EGT's and keeping the turbo discharge temperatures down while in high boost operation. Which will give better timing advancement and push the torque curve higher producing more power. But this is strictly for racing. DAILY DRIVER No. You want to take slightly warm air from under the hood. Being most daily drivers rarely ever hit high boost operations for long periods of time. Now if you trailer towing a lot I would suggest the cold air intake if you running the mountains and towing. But empty daily driver I highly suggest IAT temps of 100-140*F. Because when you retard timing it puts the torque down lower producing the power easier at lower RPM's. Not to mention it does provide the heat needed to quickly ignite the fuel where cold air can't. As you'll see the turbo discharge is high but the intercooler knocks it back down. Now a daily driver with low boost will not produce enough warm to make the engine efficient.