Mopar1973Man

When I was building then years ago I was cutting a 6 inch long piece of heater hose. Then the rest was PVC pipe over the back.

Dripley returns... Like I said take the time and ask folks they will return.

Scales. I drive just the front half of the truck on a scale weigh the axle. (Front Axle Weight) Then drive up both axles and get my actual truck weight. Then drive off till just the rear half of the truck is on the scales (Rear Axle Weight). Now you can do the math on both the front and rear axle weights. So Front axle is 4440 (scaled) and door shows 5200 (GAWR)

Even cheaper yet do like TFaoro did and put a 12V tappet cover on. As for the fleetguard it will not deal with the angle issues and spilling oil.

Sorry, I'm not a EMT so I not exactly sure of the cause.

I'm home. Safe and Sound. I wish the out come could of been better. We found the person. He was out for a UTV ride and rolled the vehicle. This person was pinned to the ground with his leg under the roll bar. Needless to say this person didn't make it. If your going out to cruise around with a ATV or UTV I highly suggest you don't go alone. I also highly suggest you tell people where your going and stick to your plan. If your going to go solo I highly suggest you get one of these. http://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/personal-locator-beacons.html

The only way your going to do it is slam the truck to the ground and reduce all aerodynamic drag. Every thing above 55 MPH is about aerodynamic drag at that point.

If your offroad at all you might consider over the top method. No, you can't use rubber hose for the over the top method, it will kink shut and blow the seals out. Basically use 1/2" PVC pipe and route it over the top and down the back side of the engine. Make sure your down pipe is not too long.

Actually I could build carbon up with my light weight running. But towing I'm able to exceed 1,000*F fairly regular climbing grade and carbon will burn at 1,000*F plus.

Could you show a picture of the special tools for the transmission rebuild?

Exactly... 20-21 MPG is what I see at 65 MPH. But it's true a 10 MPH drop will push it even higher. Typically if I hold back to 55 MPH I see a easy 24-25 MPG but pyrometer temps drop to about 500-550*F at 55 MPH.

Slow down. Optimal MPG is had at around 55-60 MPH. Beyond that the numbers start to degrade as you travel faster. Boost is going to be low and drive pressure is going to be low so intakes, coolers and pipes are not going to affect the EGT's nor the MPG's. At this point its all about speed since there is no boost pressure or drive pressure.

Correct. Has no tie to the actual fuel gauge sender. But for it to work correctly you must fill the tank every time. I used mine for 3 months to gauge fuel because my fuel gauge was funky too. Once its calibrated leave the ScanGauge II alone during your fill ups. You'll find going from station to station and pump to pump the gallons number will vary.

Like my conversation with Pepsi over the phone the big problem is who is re-manufacturing alternators. Like NAPA might have several places scattered around the US who knows if they hold the same quality standards from place to place. As for diode failure its from heat created by high current flow lke during extended grid heater use.

Might want to toss a pin on the map..

1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has been sitting in the garage un-started for over a month now. Not even worried about it...

Be aware the ripple test must be done on the alternator not the batteries.

Majority of all oil sold today is CJ-4 API grade, There is a rare once in awhile that you'll find CI-4 CI-4+ oil for sale. Basically the CJ-4 is low emission oil as Wild & Free points out. Here is a document TDR did... TDR57_Oil.pdf

May I ask why? Why only 5 minutes and then shut down?

I'd be really interested if I had a extra funds to buy parts with. I'd love to pick up some things off that rig...

Comes down to price for me... Because of how remote I am from most things, even local purchases, more times out of ten are delayed because even NAPA needs to ship in stuff. Local NAPA is OK for some stuff but other stuff like diesel parts I highly suggest you look else where. That better be a Dragon Fire Pump... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Remfd/_/R-NECXTD2H302_0498246612 There better be gold inside... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Fuel-Shut-Off-Solenoid/_/R-CRB22355_0327881296

I've also order parts through RockAuto and had good results too. I typically get clients parts off of RockAuto when the local part store gets extreme.

Go here... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?app=core&module=usercp You should be able to change you signature and avatar. Welcome to the family...

Yes they do... Get the MX series it supports iPhone. https://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/smart-phone/obdlink-mxwf.html

No.. Its high volt code for disconnect. The signal line goes high to +5V when open because there is no signal ground. Low volt is when the signal line is pinch to ground and there is 0 volts because of the short.