Mopar1973Man

As far as I know of basic hand tools should be the only thing you'll need. I would be careful with exhaust hardware being most of it will be rusted. As for gasket most suggest Cummins gaskets. Bolts are fine studs you could as a upgrade but adds cost to the project. From the people I've talked to its rather straight forward on doing a head gasket. TFaoro would be excellent man to talk to since he's doing the full tear down.

Last week. Now that a different story...

Only to a point... The supply is on the right and the return is on the left. So how much volume do you think you can return though such a small hole?

Couldn't of been me Tuesday... Tuesday my truck was at home parked in the yard under the tree all day. I drove the 1996 Dodge to Rapid River and picked up a 2000 Dodge Cummins to rebuild a A/C system. On Monday I was in New Meadows, ID dropping off a part to a owner at 4:30pm (16:30) so it wasn't me.

Studs are not required till boost pressures are exceeding 40-45 PSI. It won't prevent coolant damage on head gaskets. I currently touch 36-37 PSI on stock HX35 and no head studs.

Basically communication is done over two wires. Typically it has roughly 2.5 volts per side vs. ground. So now check thee network wires for proper voltage. If shorted to ground, +5 volts or +12 volts then the communication bus will fail.

Sorry you'll have to replace the gasket. Studs will not fix a corrosive coolant damage gasket. Way too many people assume coolant will last forever and not need to be flushed.

??? ??? So which day? Must of been Monday. That was the only day I was that direction.

I like the older inline Isuzu diesel engines. Those thing would never die...

I would figure there suction air leak some where now. Drawing air into the fuel system on the suction side of the pump. Because if it was a pressure side like you would fuel dripping from the truck.

Are you using a adjustable elbow? I've got one here that does not close enough to allow me to bulid boost over 20-22 PSI period. So to verify if the elbow is the cause I would disconnect the wastegate line and plug it. Then go for test drive and watch you boost pressure it might really climb now. While pressurizing the system you should be able to see the wastegate movement.

Welcome to the family. Make sure to ask plenty of questions. Don't be affraid of asking "Dumb" question because the only way people learn is by asking questions.

Unknown... That is one of the reason I created the article database to capture information and keep it from diappearing into the black hole of a MySQL server or haveing other selectively deleting what they don't like. Man that was back in the days of battling "Mind set" people that were ignorant of what was going on also I was stumbling and learning to from the mistakes of others digging for information. But seeing that thread bring back memories. www.frontiernet.net/~mopar1973man/2_cycle_oil.htm <- The first Mopar1973Man Web Page Address.

More I think about this the more I'm wanting to say it time to consider twins if you planning on large injectors. That would clean it up. But in the same token with CARB and EPA rules to play with I would say drop a drop injectors sizes just enough to keep it cleaned up on a low setting.

OMG...

P0216 code is not a exactly a fuel pressure problem but fuel lubrcity problem. The timing piston has seized and no longer responding in a timely manner. As suggested I wouldn't go over 20 PSI there is no need for that much pressure. As for my setup I'm idling at 17 PSI and WOT I fall to 15 PSI even with a 9 year old AirDog 150.

I had a friend with a roof mounted gun rack and every time we went offroad (off pavement) to go to the ranch or after firewood someone would end up with a gun in the lap, up side the head, etc. That idea really didn't last too long. Then he got a rear window gun rack and no problems from there. Nick's idea is good but I've got a cargo tray there and full to the bottom of the seat. The only firearm I typically carry is my 9mm pistol. Rarely do I pull out a rifle... Not much on hunting anymore...

Being its only the one bearing that is damaged the I would have to say it most likely debris introduced during oil change time. That one bearing was the one that took the debris. Being that all other bearing are untouched I wouldn't think it oil or pressure related. Kind of like how I destroyed a good turbo.

Like for CR engine BBI injectors are the best for power smoke control. Just like Coyotekiller said there is a lot behindmaking a low smoke big injector. But still in all with large injectors you going to need a fuel managment system that will provide enough fuel lag to allow the turbo to spool and then let go.

Not bad... About $50 bucks for a new drum with studs.

Don't use the log splitter. I'm sure you will do damage to something. How do I know... I've done the same thing and ended up crushing the part accidentally. 20 ton log splitter can do serious damage really quick. So I suggest since neither one of us have the press it back to the ol' BFH.

Eric does some in house. Which mine are done in house. Call and ask about it.

Me personally I did Vulcan Performance +50HP...

Exactly. I growing tired of the whistling whine from the turbo.

I'm actually looking for a silencer ring for my HX35... I'm looking for quiet performance. Loud is easy...