Mopar1973Man

This project will be done here at my place so lots of pictures and maybe some video. So lets hope 4th July does not go off with BOOM! Because fire threat is very very high right now. I've on stand by for the fire dept right now.

City of Riggins, Idaho is going to hold fireworks display this year... Crazy? I think so...

Something Aden set me up with... Yes... I'll be doing the job most likely after the 4th July. Parts will be here on the 1st of July.

Parts are on the way for this project. Owner just purchased everything. (Moved to 6.7L forum)

Up here in Idaho there is several places that are going to reach above 100*F mark today and the next few days. Then on the other hand please folk be careful with the use of fire. Also please take the time and look over your vehicles and fix any leaks you have. I've just seen a nasty vehicle fire that was a total loss. It could of been cause by leaking fuel or engine we'll never know but lets work together to protect your vehicles and families from harm.

The whole fuel system weakness is the VP44 at the center. Basically there is 4 ways of killing a VP44... Fuel lubricity - Bosch states in there own testing that all fuels should be at <450 HFRR but US fuels are about 520 HFRR. Fuel pressure - Dodge FSM states a minimum of 10 PSI. Unoffically we state a minimum of 14 but no higher than 20 PSI. This is to hold the overflow valve open. Fuel filtration - Extra filters or better filtration is always better for life span of parts. Power - Yes even the VP44 is sensitive to AC noise as well and should be less than 0.1 AC Volt measured at the BATT post on the alternator. CSM is right this is just a old school 727 trans in these truck with a electronic 4th gear. The problem is that the 727 and the 47RE are designed to handle max torque at higher RPMs but like the Cummins it create high torque in low RPMs and the pump pressures are not high enough during these loads. Hence why people change valve bodies, add pressure and modify the governor pressure signal with a resistor. I know Wild & Free could spit out the newest transmission model and it would be a huge upgrade over the older 47RE and 48RE.

I highly suggest just asking Edge Products for replacement wiring loom. A cut up wiring loom is trouble waiting. Might also time consider upgrading completely.

Kind of like the Weather Tech Floormats JAG1 got me... Really nice not to have to vacuum the truck all the time just shake the mat out once in awhile. As for your cup holder its a automatic I've heard all the horror stories about them. No worse than the early 2nd gen cup holders high on the dash. They suck too. Now mine in the 02 truck I love because even a 1 liter bottle fits in the big holder. I might have to pick on up for the 96 Dodge though...

Mine was the compressor front seal but you'll never see the dye being its inside the pulley. But before you do all that I would try getting a cheap $11 seal kit at NAPA and reseal the entire system. It'll take about 1-2 hours to do. Then put a vacuum on the system and leave it overnight to see if the vacuum holds. If not you still got a leak. Then I would consider the evaporator and/or compressor.

??? I guess we need to create a article of this.

If ordering a radiator I would order one for a automatic transmission so it had the proper cooler fittings. The best suggestion is to pull the radiator and take it down to a radiator shop and have it pressure tested. Then you'll see exactly where its leaking.

Yeah... Angus not to confuse you but White Lightning (Ryan) converted to a p-pump on his truck and they tend to like more pressure. On a VP44 truck 14-20 PSI is optimal pressure.

That's my problem. I've got the exhaust brake hanging off the back of the turbo.

That's an damaged compressor wheel. So in your case I would inspect the air filter and just replace it. As for the oil I still say to pop test the injectors to be sure.

Also be aware of your offset and width of rim will change the diameter and profile of the tires so it can impact odometer and speedometer accuracy. It will be small but its there like my truck with the change of wheels and tire size I've got a 0.5 MPH offset. Small but its there and can't be calculated but it can be measured with a GPS.

Sad part is this thread has so much good information about engine building but will most likely get lost in time. I wish you guys would start creating even small article about this. Like the piston differences that is so cool to see this kind of comparing of parts and how they work.

Well the turbo is destroyed like mine was. The compressor wheel was destroyed by a hose clamp. So mine sucked in that debris of the damaged blades. So in you case I'm not going to say the sky is falling but its time to investigate a bit more and figure out what happening. Oil dilution is cause by failed injectors. That can be checked by doing a pop test of thee injectors. Not a turbo issue. But debris issues could cause a compression issue (blowby). So compression test would verify that problem. Since the injectors have to be pulled to be pop tested you could do a compression test too. Another thought is wastegate issues? (sticking open)

It was solid debris that struck the compressor blades. So there was either debris inside your filter or a hole has been rubbed into the filter.

$1000 dollars is a lot of cash to toss down a turbo that may break your tune. So very common for people to upgrade turbos and not have the right combo of fuel. Then turns the truck into a smokey bomb that is nearly impossible to drive the city. I'd love to upgrade again my limits are because of the exhaust brake mounts to the back of the turbo.

Fuel contamination? Wrong oil used? I'd consider changing again yourself. I know it not cheap to dump 3 gallons of oil out. But the insurance is priceless. If it's fuel contamination you should smell diesel fuel in the oil. Most likely a injector issue if so. So you would have to resolve the injector(s) issue first. Very rare have I heard of engine oil entering the power steering pump and visa versa. This is why I asked about the P/S fluid and its color. It might be pushing oil into the P/S pump but I'm not sure how?

MAX A/C, A/C , Bilevel, Floor-DEF and DEF are all A/C modes. Floor and Vent are NOT A/C modes. Overheating... Cooling system is rather simple. Drain and pull the radiator. Look at the face of the radiator. Is it it all plugged up with oil and grime? (Crankcase vent issue). With radiator drained out looking into the tanks of the radiator is the core tube all corroded up with scale? (Coolant failure) Pull your thermostat and replace. Use either a Cummins (high dollar) or NAPA thermostats. Keep the 190*F. Do not use a 180*F.

Smaller tires do help quite a bit in steering and handling. Also reduce the amount of wear and fatigue on steering parts.

If the fluid is black then its oil pressure getting into the Power Steering system. If the fluid is normal honey color then the power steering fluid might be just old needing changed.

Typically I run the engine for short spans of time to flush the steering gear box and the hydro boost out of old fluid. But I normally pull the line from the back of the power steering pump and cap the pump nipple to keep fluid in the pump. Then route the return line to a waste bucket. Fire up the engine. Then while it running I bump the steering wheel left to right to open the power valve. This only takes a few seconds to pump out. So shut down will happen rather fast. Then reload and tab the brakes on the next run this flushes the hydro boost out. The I hook back up the return line and re-fill. Typically cost about 3-4 quarts of fluid to get it flushed out.

Added the pic for ya...