Mopar1973Man

I did manage to escape for a short time to the woods and take a ATV ride up to Morgan Lake to find out USFS had close the trail off so you can no longer go high enough to see the lake for a photo nor is the trail suitable any longer to get down to the lake with a vehicle. So I've had a bit of fun.

So you do have a APPS sensor issue. Stock ECM will start cutting off boost at 19 to 20 PSI without a module present. Mine is the same way without my Edge Comp. Fuel pressure will have to addressed soon.

Yuk... You are so nice... I got lucky last night and got some much needed sleep. But man I'm sure getting tired of the every day 100+ weather. The river out here is now getting super low. http://water.weather.gov/ahps2/hydrograph.php?wfo=mso&gage=rigi1

Here is the power point I created. 4 Terminal strip. +12V Battery power +12V Ignition Switched Power Panel Lighting (Dimmer) Ground One fused wire comes from the battery (20 Amp Fused). Now once in the cab using a relay I've get trigger for the relay from a fuse. This way there is no load on the stock electrical and no way to cause damage. This relay gets power from terminal #1 and passes the power on terminal #2 when triggered. Since I installed a aftermarket stereo I had the extra lead for the panel lights so I ran it to terminal #3. Terminal #4 is a direct lead from the battery ground. Nothing attaches to the stock other than a trigger from a keyed fuse. Completely isolated and protected.

That should work too.

Back in the day I use to have a old distributor modified for hooking up the drill to it and spinning the oil pump around till oil pressure was up. Then once the engine was installed in the truck I would leave the coil wire off and spin starter till oil pressure was up. The fire up the engine. I also don't use assembly lube except on bearing surfaces. (Like doing a in frame of bearing change). But if you have a way of pre-loading the oil system before starting then you have no need for assembly lube. You could take your old oil pump and modify it as in remove the idler gear and modify it so it can be spun with a drill. At least then the entire engine is loaded with oil.

The dropping of power sound like electronics issue. 99% of the time if a APPS sensor fails you get dead pedal and a P0121, P0122 or P0123 codes. Very rarely does a APPS sensor sneak by without tripping a code. So I would start with error codes and see what pops up. Might be time for the injectors to be pop tested to to verify. What's your boost pressure like? Any boost leaks? Being you got very little smoke I kind of doubt the boost leaks and turbo issues being present. I'm leaning more towards lack of fuel issues. How about fuel pressure? Possibly a bad Edge EZ module? Circuit board corroded?

I tend to grab a can of WD40 or similar and keep the pivot shaft lubed up. I've dealt with enough weird pedal problems on these trucks.

Just went back down to my fire station reloaded my hose bed with second lay of 1" fire line since 1 1/2" is just too heavy for dragging around solo. 1" line is much lighter. Not to mention when your working with limit water resource you need to conserve water till the bigger tenders get on scene.

When you return you better look into resolving it correctly this still only a band-aid fix to the bigger problem.

Small problem with any bleeder system. Where do you think all the heavy debris goes to while bleeding the brakes? It drops to the bottom of the calipers. What happens next is the debris will start to wedge up the calipers and start the binding issues. So flushing or bleeding the system is only half of the project. I would still take all 4 calipers off open them up, wash them out, and reassemble each one. Like I'm due also for brake fluid change myself. Another way you could do the bleeding job is to pull all 4 calipers. Then squeeze all 8 caliper pistons back in with the bleeder screw open. Allow the system to drain by pull the hose free from one front and one rear caliper. With the hose disconnected the debris can't enter the calipers. Then close all the bleeders. Reload the system and bleed the system out. All brake fluid should be changed every 30k miles.

How about this... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/33-brake-system/78-brake-fluid-change

Was the truck test drove with the alternator disconnected? As for new alternators the do fail out of the box. I've seen 4 in a row fail out of the box. It's also possible for a diode to lose a good solder joint and intermittently surge AC noise. As for APPS shift mods (filters) it still suggest against them. They truck ran for over 12 years without it. It means there is something failed still and adding a module or filter is a bandaid cover up. As for the error code you creating a short to ground or a short to 5V basically creating the error code (P0122 or P0123) so if the APPS signal is within span then no codes.

I still say skip the ATS bandaid. 99.9% of the time it's still the alternator.

Yesterday afternoon we lost power so I was helping a friend install gauges in his truck. So when the power went out I rushed home to shutdown the A/C and water heater. On my way back down to my friends place I was thinking I bet the fire tones go off. So I tell my friend that its going to happen sure enough the tones go out for a power line fire. I'm less than a 1/4 mile ride with my ATV to the fire station. Off and running. I picked up Engine 11 and proceeded to the fire. Long story short my quick actions of getting there first and knocking down the fire kept it down to about 1 acre. USFS was highly impressed. Then I get home there is still no power but the inverter is functional so I hop in and get a shower I'm cover with soot and ash. So I was invited to the Chief's house last night to to have a get together. So stayed till about 11pm. I roll home and my neighbor is super bright. (Not!) We are in a Stage I fire restriction where no open fires are permitted. He's got a bonfire burning. There is no telephone service, no power, and no way to contact 911. Really bright. I lay down to go to bed and then they start shooting off fireworks. (Freaking really smart now). Nothing I can do... Crawl out of bed this morning 6am to "Diesel" stuffing his beak in my face. Ok. So crawl out of bed and sit in front of the computer. Barely get 2 cups of coffee down and "Page Tones go off again. This time a house fire. So I run down stairs and get dressed and grab my radio. Off and running to Station 1 to grab engine 11. Again I manage to be first on scene again. Fire was knock out by some Indians that where firing in the river across the road. Needless to say I called off all other crews and waited for the Fire Chief to show. I watched and carefully inspecting the wall where the outlet blew out and started the fire. We are very thankful for the Indians that did rush over and put the fire out. So we spent another 3 hours carefully inspecting the wall, attic, and crawl space for fire or embers. So sad to say I'm exhaust... I hope the radio stay quiet but I doubt it. Some will be stupid this weekend. (Engine 11)

Injector o-rings or front seal on the VP44 are your 2 sources for fuel leaks. There is one other which is a bad injector(s) that are stuck open. Just like a CR engine if stuck open it won't change much other than make it hard starting. The bad injector will blow fuel spray on the cylinder walls instead of the piston bowl .

I'm currently running with my BRAKE and ABS lights on. I know my front sensors are bad and need replacing. As for you Hex you issue is going to be a rear sensor being your speedometer.

Cowboy stopped posting about it in the spring. Cowboy is the one that was gathering the group up and getting the chat going. So no there has been any chatroom activity in about 2-3 months now. If you want to start it you can...

Nothing to hide... I'm 44 years old (October 26, 1970).

Might find one in the FSM. IIRC.

Shiny snail... How about the engine? I seen a lot of part pictures how about pictures with the parts assembling? (Yes I'm picking on you!)

Talk to Cowboy he's the one in charge of chat nights.

Absolutely!

Oh feel the love being tossed around here.

Here is my setup with 3" exhaust and NAPA muffler. Notice the cab is really quiet and the note is way different. No drone.