Mopar1973Man

750 Watts = 120 AC Volts x 6.25 AC Amps Might of been something else pop on in the house.

You need a minimum of the ECM and PCM to function. Overhead is not requirement. Remember most of the stuff starts from the PCM the ECM is a add-on to the PCM. So kind of required. Everything on J/C 7 can be ditched.

Welcome to the family! Grab a favorite beverage and sit down and get comfy there is plenty of reading you can do. Also do ask plenty of questions! We love to answer questions here!

Pager goes off at 3am in the morning for a barn fire near Whitebird, ID. I just barely got home at 1pm in the afternoon. The landowner lost his barn and about 300 ton of hay. Fire Chief figures its wet hay that started the fire. I got to admit hay fire are nasty and hard to put out. Fire Chief lost count on water after about 60,000 gallons and it was becoming day light at that point so 200,000 to 300,000 would be a valid guess of how much water we pumped on this fire.

The most I can say is a break down of the power fluid (lubricity of the fluid) from the heat. Some say that synthetics tolerate heat better that petroleum based but again I'm running 250k miles with petroleum based fluid change every 30k miles. The other thought is possibly over sized tires placing more stress on the steering box. Like my truck came with 265's and I went undersized 235's to deal with a few different issues.

Overflow valve can't be pulled open on a vacuum but it can't bleed through the hole.

I bought NAPA blower motor for like $50 bucks. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Blower-Motor-AC-Heater/_/R-BK_6551871_0456282604 Just remember that the blower motor does NOT come with a plug you'll have to cut you existing plug from the old blower.

That's why I such a problem with prime loss issues. Lot of people claim the cross over tubes cause loss of prime. I struggle to understand how. Being the crossover tube is the return side of the system and the return side can and will drain back to the tank. The overflow valve is not a air tight valve being it has that air purge hole. Being the prime problem has to be on supply side to be effective. In other words there is air in the high pressure lines, injectors, or in the injection pump. Maybe even in the low pressure side feeding the high pressure side. Return is after the fact...

Double check again. Something isn't plugged in yet. DANGER! You might want to disconnect the NEG cable again for at least 5 minutes before messing with any air bag wiring or plugs. A air bag that goes off can be very dangerous.

I second that... blower motor bearing will tighten up and draw more power which in turn cooks the blower resistor in the first place.

Check all fuses with ohm meter I've seen fuses crack and appear to be fine but the element is crack and no longer flowing power. Test light can be used on normal blade fuses but ohm meter has to be used on the larger square fuses. Also it always best to un-hook the negative cable that way there is never a chance of arcing a cable. Hooking up a batteries should always be positive first and then negative last. This prevents this issues from occurring.

Any of the these great site vendors are good places to start.... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/forum/140-vendors-dealers/ My favs are Vulcan Performance, DAP, and Parleys...

Easy way to deal with it. Take a photo of the MTD label on the lawn mower with the serial number, model, MY, etc. Then go to any lawn and garden shop that services equipment. They will be able to look up the belt and get you the right one. Like for blade belts I can go to the local NAPA and get them but they can't look up the info so its a guessing game. My last belt broke Sunday as well and I drove 70 miles round trip to get a belt so I could mow the lawn to find out the belt is a bit too small so the blade drag slightly when disengaged. But the other alternative is to take my photo go to the shop in Ontario, OR which is 250 miles round trip and they will get me the right one. Never the less this lawn mower is 9 years old and well beat. I've got multiple issues from lower crank seal leaking oil on the clutch belt to blade housing is bent/tweaked, to right hand blade spindle is bent.

That means what...??? Do you realize that all summer here we've been reaching 100*F minimum and topped out at 117*F this summer. I don't have power steering cooler either. Heck my last day of work in Riggins, ID it was 108*F when I left town at 5pm. I still hold to my every 30k fluid flushing... No leaks or issues as of yet.

One of the few reason I never did the overhead clearance light mod to my truck I knew this is a problem as light age and seal start leaking. The you stuck looking for solutions... Most of our older fire trucks are now having this same problem with roof leaks. In our case its a tube of silicone to fix the issues. But in the case here most are going to want fresh seals or updated lights.

That would also apply to performance running too. You would look for the optimal drive pressure. As heat energy is converted the exhaust from the turbo should be cooler.

Personally I would set the software to run a tight vane to get spooled up so you can get to speed. Then open the vanes up to drop boost at cruising speed.

Sound great and all but you can't buy that valve. You have to get a reman'ed VP44.

Here is the guts of the VP44... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view The only thing I can think of is the control valve in this pic #135. But never been reported as a problem.

Can you imagine hauling that engine up there? How about all the tools to just assemble that mill? Crazy... Wow!

Still worth keeping an eye on. The previous shop I worked for the owner was quick to use these check valves for prime issues on diesel instead of correcting the actual problem. I understand there is a lot of different parts and seals in all the different diesel manufactured but its always best to fix it than band-aid it. Eventually the band-aid will not cover the wound or in this cause the failure.

Now there is a antique. Wow! I love old history like that and just be able to sit in front of it and imagine what it was like back in those days.

Thing is the fluid might be changed out but did you flush the debris out of the system? Is it possible you got debris in the hydrobooster because of the pump failure?

Cummins Kit is a double lipped.

Got to ask though with all these custom steering boxes (redhead and similar) why is it I'm getting ready to cross a quarter of million miles and no issues with a stock box? Kind of like asking why am I going to cross a quarter of a million miles with NV4500 and no 5th gear nut problems.