Mopar1973Man

??? I'll have to look at which hose I'm pulling off my pump but I always got flow of fluid start starting the engine. I'm due to change mine so I could get out there and get it done...

I would of done the diagnostic when it occurred it might be a intermittent correction issue or broken wire. So now you got to wait again till it occurs again.

Last time I ordered a vacuum pump rebuild it was $13 buck at Cummins. Just remember the 12V tappet cover will not have the bracket for the ECM to hang. Catch Can for crankcase vent? I would skip that personally. 12V tappet covers don't really slobber much at all. Even my 24V crankcase tube barely slobbers.

That's sucks...

I've always just pulled the line at the power steering pump and cap the nipple. Then routed that hose to a waste bucket. Then flushed the system.

Like mine are the same way and clean them up with Scotchbrite pads being its only plastic your not going to cut into the metal. Just make sure to rinse off the debris before installing.

I running a 3 micron on the AirDog 150 and a 10 micron in the stock can. Still holding 15-17 PSI fuel pressure with no issues even in the dead of winter.

I've seen several of them seize the fan clutch be locked 24/7 like that.

So what's the downside to the changing the compressor wheel and machine work?

My beast it weighs in about 8,000 pounds but 31 foot long. So far in all the travel I've done with it here in the state. I typically set the cruise for 55-60 MPH and vary between 11-14 MPG. Typically when I'm hitch to the RV I'm in no hurry at all. So climbing grades typically I back down to 3rd gear. I've done a few time pushing hard in 4th and barely keep it around 1,100*F over 7% grades. But I'm in a no hurry mode with the RV so speeds are typically like I said 55-60 MPH. My last trip to St. Maries Idaho I varied 11-13 MPG. Being the first day I was in winds most of the day heading north. Then 2nd day it was milder and calmer. But mostly twisty highways and tight corners pulled 13 MPG. 3rd day leg home I kick the cruise for 60 MPH and climbed the last leg home at barely 11 MPG. There is also the ST tire factor also water factor. Most all ST tires are only rated to 65 MPH also my water tank 50 gallons is at the very rear of the trailer so a full water tank typically adds a bit of wag to the tail for me. Again I'm in no hurry. EDIT... GCW is ~16,800 pounds.

Run through the erase code diagnostics.

I really do love my quiet 3" pipe now. Totally drone free and got a gnarly turbo spool noise now. It just sounds wicked. Like my trip I just got home from going to St. Maries and back. very enjoyable time towing the RV. No drone. No excessive noise. Good exhaust brake function. Good MPG's... and just plain ol' Good Power! I'll admit pulling Whitebird grade and Lewiston grade both in 3rd gear and about 30-35 MPH. I wasn't in any hurry nor did I want to run 1,200*F on the pyrometer up the grades. In 3rd it pull easy and stay much cooler like 900-1000*F. If I was in a hurry I could of grabbed 4th and push the pyro the whole way up and pulled 45-50 MPH. Even running 3rd Gear I was still passing OTR trucks heading up the grades. But the ol' HX35W with the exhaust brake and my fuel management setup has be wonderful. Still having issues with tires breaking loose 2nd and 3rd gear if I'm too heavy on the throttle even towing the RV.

Little Chinese Wire Hose clamp about 3/4" diameter and one mile of travel. Turbo destroyed... So when I went shopping for turbos and trying to find turbos that worked with my existing exhaust brake there was nothing. I was constantly turned away from upgrading from all the vendors. So I spent a little over $800 to have the existing turbo, cleaned up, rebuilt, and spun balanced by Industrial Injection (Via GOS Performance).

I can't replace it with anything else because of the exhaust brake. But yes I ate a turbo a while back with a hose clamp.

Depends... I would do some study work with fuel logging or to use a tool like ScanGauge II or UltraGauge to get MPG readings to so you can base your tuning on live numbers.

Like even my old school rig won't trigger full lock of the fan till at least 210*F. I do know that its partially locked at temps above 190*F. So I would still suggest changing theromstat first and trying again and see what happens.

At least you got it resolved. Like said above pay it forward to keep good karma going.

Like on my trip I adjusted my Edge Comp down from 5x3 to 5x2 to control smoke. It was nearly smokeless travelling. While towing I was averaging between 11-13 MPG between days with head winds and climbing 7% grades and calmer days with flat ground.

Well Gang... I broke out of the house hitch up the RV and hauled to St. Maries and back again. Little bit of adventuring and enjoying the travelling and seeing different things. The entire trip was done boondocking style no RV parks and no hook ups. The first night we found our home just about 15 miles south of St. Maries on Highway 3. The first thing that was brought to my attention is I lost a house battery after almost 6 years. The power just wasn't lasting as long as it should and dipping low enough to trip the fridge DC LO warning. So stopped in St. Maries and had the batteries load tested 1 failed. So not going to argue about it just replace both. I have no idea of the usage of the batteries that came with the RV. So we continued on and wondered the back roads like Highway 3 ,6 ,8 and a few others. On the second day we wondered back to Twin Bridges just south of Whitebird, ID and camped. Now that was a hot spot to be 9pm at night and the temp was still 90*F outside. Good ol' MoparMom was to busy making the dinner salad with her home grown tomatoes to even smile for the camera. Nice to have 120 VAC power without the noise of generator and watch a few DVD movies at night. So we slept with the door open and about 2am I woke up to close the door. Talk about dark out. Beautiful to look up and see the dim light from the stars in the havens above. So this morning we got up had coffee and packed the last little bit home. But we are both sold more so on the boondocking and realize we need to some of the gear we have on board the RV for this kind of camping. Second night was much better power wise with fresh batteries. Now this morning I find that there is a propane soot smell in the air and now need to look at the burner tube for the fridge. Most likely got a spider nest or something going on.

I just took a look at the Alcoa wheel they are pretty cool looking but $262 per wheel can be rather expensive. So I'd say you got a screaming deal at $400...

Don't even go there. I should write "Got Soot?" on the bumper corner chrome and take a picture...

Don't push your luck... Eventually the pockets will become empty.

Our engine will burn engine oil like 10w-30 or 15w-40. But the problem is ash. Now if you follow oil talk threads you'll find all engine oil today has things like zinc and other soft metals added to the oil. This is ash. So this why the 2 cycle oil theory got started because the ash was piling up in the piston bowl as well as injector tips. Being that most all 2 cycle oil today is ASHLESS its a safe diesel fuel lubricant.

LOL... You might want to look under my truck. I still got a nearly brand new Mitchlin tire under mine. I've only used it 3 times and maybe 100 miles total. I'm guilt of the tire offset spare wise too. I've got a 265/75 R16 spare and running 235/85 R16 tires. So that 1 rev per mile difference. Here soon I'll pull that spare and replace it with a used 235.

2 Cycle oil is safe for all Cummins diesels from 1989 to 2007. As for Optilube its a good product which tested out good for lubricity score. So really there is no real worry about either product. To me the fact of mail ordering a product just for one vehicle when I can stop at the local fuel station and get a quart of 2 cycle oil easy. Why? Being I do run chainsaws and weedwackers most of the summer.