Mopar1973Man

Cool. Might be a winter time project.

About a one hour job to run though the seals on the lines. But if they are not leaking don't mess with them. You might grab a UV light and look over the system quickly looking for UV dye. If the low side port is leaking a cap will not stop the leak. I've been lucky a few times to cycle my lo side hose on and off the fitting a few times and get it to seal again. If not then that hose will have to be replaced.

Would some be kind enough to create an article of this information for the different generations of trucks?

One day I'll have to the valve seals in my beast that doesn't look too hard to do. Curious who's valve spring tool is that it not Torky Tekonologies.

If the key doesn't move with finger pressure then it should be fine. But if it does move your best to super glue the key in place. I've had them spin up on me and block the shaft from going in. Then careful pull it back out to re-seat the key with glue. Make sure the arrow is pointing towards the pump.

Like one gent called me with a CCD network issue I told him to cycle all the plugs and magically it all went away. So maybe the same thing is true.

AirBag system has a problem. The computer will only reset the issue after the repair has been made. It might just be a bad connection. Go over all the airbag wiring and double check all connections. DANGER! Make sure to do this while the battery is disconnected. Also make sure to disconnect the battery and leave alone for at least 10-15 minutes before starting work. I would hate to see you get injured by deploying a airbag by accident.

Yesterday getting ready for the 4th of July Fireworks fires... My new Engine 11 Ford 7.3L Diesel.

Your title states... So I've been looking at ways of improving your MPG's being that is the subject title. If it was change to "Water/Meth Injection for Better Power" you would get a change of answers instantly. But I've been designing my answers to fit the MPG angle that the title suggest and making power a secondary category. But never mind... I'm backing down...

So the next problem will be the MPG will go lower now with larger injectors. EGT's will go up more when unspooled which will be the smog issue next. Also with California smog regulations you going to have to watch your smoke emissions too might get a smoking ticket?

Hua? Piston seal OE Mopar Seals. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=5017170&cc=1440064&jnid=491&jpid=0 Full caliper rebuilt kit for $4 a piece. ($16 for all 4) https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2046132&cc=1440064&jnid=492&jpid=3 Slide pin boots. https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3053931&cc=1440064&jnid=493&jpid=0

Did you rinse the fitting out with brake cleaner or ether to verify its not from being uncoupled from the charging hose?

Like said on the bottom of the table... Personally I would of nudged the high side pressure up just a bit more just passed 200 PSI for those temps. No higher than about 250 PSI. More or less getting a balance of liquid to vapor in the system.

Nope never did. Just re-adjust the upper hinge a little and keep going. I was talking to a local rancher and he's got the same problem to I got to get down there and fix his door too. Just light readjustment. I will admit that full hinge replacement is the proper way of fixing the door. If you can get away with a mild readjustment go for it.

Typically because brake fluid was allowed to age and eat the rubber liner in the hose. If you change you brake fluid every 30k miles this won't happen. Do you hold stock in brake fluid producing companies?

First off it not about torquing the clamp down. Second you can get a small cut off of steel 4" exhaust pipe it will fit just inside the neck.

Ummm.. It called a camera with timer and a tripod. I never smile... Sorry.

Solution to that problem is easy. Don't lose your rubber caps for the bleeder screws. If you do lose then find some vinyl tubing that fits over the nipple. Cut the vinyl tubing about an inch long. Then heat the tubing with a cigarette lighter and melt the vinyl a little. Quick squeeze the end shut with pilers it will make a perfect cap for your bleeder screws and never have that issue again. Don't torque the screw in just lightly tighten (think single digit inch pounds).

Like towing I can see 30-32 PSI on 7% grade towing my RV and stay very cool at 1,100*F at 55 MPH. Empty grade climbing like Goose Creek to McCall, ID its another 7% and I regularly see 10-20 PSI of boost and about 800*F worth EGT's with a speed limits of 45 MPH and corners rated for 25 MPH. Again smaller injectors, stock turbo, etc. But now flip that coin over and go for racing. I'd lose.. I man enough to admit I would lose that battle quick because I got the power out of the hole up to about 65-70 MPH and flattens out beyond that where your setup would be just pouring on the power after that large turbo got spun up. Again its about designing the power band where its more useful for you driving style.

Like myself I rebuilt my calipers for about $28 bucks for all 4 calipers and did the piston cleanup and installed. Super easy but much cheaper. I would only consider replacing the caliper if there was rust damage to the bores.

Bad deck. I've seen this issue before and had problems with rear speakers working. Wasn't my truck but a customers.

Too low of a sub level. Bring it up. Try 5x2 or 5x3. Sublevels 1. 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI of boost. 2. 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost. 3. 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost. 4. Some extra fuel at low boost. 5. Full fuel at 0 PSI Boost. So this is partially why you EGT's are high is your lagging out the fuel and not getting turbo spun up. Sublevels 1-3 are like placing the virtual egg under throttle till X amount of boost is made. You problem is your attempting to build boost but got no fuel for your large turbo. At the top left of the screen click on your user name then select settings. The select signature or photo and you can change both.

Typically I just break down the caliper clean the pistons up and put in a seal kit which is way cheaper than buying new calipers. Now buying new packed calipers is way easier to do than rebuilding. So it depends on how deep your pockets are. I suggest getting stock rotors if your replacing the rotors. As for pads looks for mid grade and avoid high performance pads being they enhance rotor wear. I buy budge pads typically and get 180k miles from the OE pads. Now to my next brake job at 360k miles.

Did mine without jacking up the axle. The key is to pump the fluid through as many places as possible. The rocking action of the steering wheel pushes fluid into both sides of the power piston inside the gear box. The pumping the brakes pushes fluid to both sides of its power piston. If you really want to get the gear box super clean then yes you will need to jack it up and steer from lock to lock with the engine off and it will pull fluid from the pump and push it into the gear box but also pushing the piston complete cycles empty each chamber completely and refilling as you go from lock to lock. Make sure you cycle from lock to lock slowly. This process takes longer because there is no pump to aid in pushing the fluid but it does empty more of the debris and old fluid than the quick method. But remember this will deal with the steering box and does absolutely nothing for the hydro-booster.

Just for fun... A fresh picture today. Hard at work administrating the site as usual.