Mopar1973Man

Not true. ECM is setup for certain amount of defuel till boost pressure rises. The ECM has its own fuel map of how much fuel is allowed at X amount of boost. So this where a module changes things now at least Edge there is 3 defuel modes (sublevels 1-3) and 2 power modes (sublevels 4-5). Being the module is wire tapped you can override the ECM commands. Part of it is done on the CAN Bus connector and the other part is done on the wire tap. From what Ed told me the module rewrites the data in the stream and gives it a high priority which wipes out the previous data. Higher the pop pressure better the atomization but retards timing. Lower the pop pressure more timing advancement but atomization is weaker. I'm assuming your talking about Blue Chip box? Not many people use them. As for adjustments and drivablity I couldn't tell you. I know they cost much more that Edge or common name module. Like Smarty is not a good choice for 24V because there is no boost to fuel control. Quadzilla and Edge are both choices for boost to fuel control. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/fms_box.html Much nicer product... For less... https://edgeproducts.com/products/01-02-dodge-5-9l-cummins-juice-w-attitude-cts2-31501/ Simpler product. https://edgeproducts.com/products/2001-2002-dodge-24-v-comp-5-9l--30301/ Like Edge EZ isn't a good choice because there again no boost to fuel management.

My version. After 5 foot of air brake line it enters the bottom of the bracket on a push to connect fitting. Then the sender is on top. This give distance from the water hammer pulses and a easy place for pressure testing of the sender is failing. No digging deep in the engine for pressure testing. Same push lock tee. I've added a brass elbow, needle valve, snubber then goes to push to connect fitting and 1/8" air brake line.

Why no for sale here in the classified ads? Well if you two would finish your VGT turbo controllers...

Bring your RV if you got one. There is open RV slot in my front yard. If not here is a excellent motel just down the road 3/4 of mile.

G115 actually connects to the passenger side battery cable. Look at the passenger side cable there is a smaller cable off the post with a clip connector and it will run into the loom near the PCM. This is the main ground for those devices. Again it does not attach to body. Now the main cable does indeed attach to the block and the body. Here is the G115 connector. Here is the path alone the orifice tube into the loom for G115.

Power adjust and power def? What's the price?

Like oxygen sensors I typically get the wire unplugged first thing then work on removing the sensor from the pipe. I did it this way in hopes of preventing the wiring from be damaged.

Seriously you might want to create a write up of this... I know it cost more than a boost elbow but to get on/off switching of the wastegate would bee awesome for anyone.

... and you didn't stop in... Shame on you!

Can you post the parts you used and where you got them. Also show what you did to modify the regulator. I'm seriously curious about this one.

No. ECM, PCM and VP44 have no body connection. Take a look at the wiring diagram. G115 is the actual battery cable on the passenger side. As for the block ground that is lift pump and fuel heater hidden behind the starter. Again a secondary system it will use body ground but primary system like all the computers they use the actual battery cable. Now take notice to the fuel pump relay in the upper right corner it uses a body ground G102 and it states its location (left side fender shield).

Shhhh! Not so loud! I don't want them to figure out they were excluded in the picture.

No don't do that. Stock APPS have been pre-set and don't have any value of voltage that you can really test for. But you can take a analog volt mater and pan the scale of the APPS sensor looking for a sudden drop or surge in voltage. As for Grounds to worry about is the battery cables. That's it. The other body grounds are just secondary stuff. Lights, horn, etc. The ECM, PCM and VP44 are all ground to the battery directly and don't have any body ground connection.

Fan bearings are wasted and piled up carbon brushes in n the bottom. Just replace it. Mine failed the same death. Now JAG1 went through all the trouble of trying to bring it back from the dead and there is just no way to fix those blower motors. The only thing I can suggest is to cut you OEM lead as close to the motor. The new motor will not have the plug.

NAPA thermostats are safe. Cummins are safe but pricey. Chain Stores like Autozone are NOT safe. Typically most have problems with them.

Personally I don't like in tank screens. So if you lost that no biggy. But you can buy a new fuel level sender from a Dodge dealer. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/236-fuel-gauge-replacement-sender

Here I am hanging out with the Dodge Owners...

Funny... I was over on the RV site I moderate and people are so worried about seeing behind the trailer they are installing WiFi camera on the back of the RV. Like I mention on that thread is if you could see some one tailgating your RV what can you do about it? Nothing. So having a good set of mirrors and being able to see along side the trailer is a good thing.

Yeah... I'm going to jump on a 200*F this winter to try it out.

Maybe we need to create a get together for this year?

Like my clip on don't shake normally. But now that I put my bug deflector back on the front of the truck now they mildly shake because of the air disturbance the deflector creates.

Thermostat is stuck open. Time to flush it out and change the thermostat.

What the whole deal is boost pressure is what is creating the heat to make the fuel burn. So bigger injectors typically have larger droplets so require more heat to convert the fuel from a liquid state to vapor to BOOM!. So smaller injectors have smaller droplets so less heat is required to covert the fuel to ignite. So as pour more fuel in you create more drive pressure on the turbine so now you can create more boost pressure. But efficiency or MPG is created more so in low to zero boost pressure. More boost with fuel will not create more power. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autoignition_temperature So in a nutshell that is what makes a diesel engine go. More boost create more pressure or heat in the cylinder which allows the engine to burn more fuel. Adding to much fuel without enough boost can't consume or convert all the fuel so most of the fuel is wasted. Hence why I suggest fuel management over bigger turbo because even with a bigger turbo its going to lag more so and create more smoke than actually cleaning it up. Look back in history the 1st Gen Cummins had a H1C turbo with a 20cm2 exhaust housing and no wastegate. This turbo was so big on the turbine side it had zero restriction and no heat issues for the tiny 160 HP engine that it was. Now today most truck have HX35W with a 12cm2 exhaust housing but later automatics have a 9cm2 exhaust housing to reduce lag time to keep soot emissions down. Actually if Nick (Me78569) would hurry up with the beta testing of his VGT turbo setup we all might convert to that.

I was screwed on that deal too I use to get PayPal to just issue a check and then pay the bills here locally. But now PayPal required the bank account thing so I created a new account at my local bank so now I can just transfer the money there and still pay the site bills. Think that's bad Google AdSense is worse you need to provide bank account, W-9 with social security, just too much information but for the site I stuck my neck out there. So there is a trend to move towards a cashless world and more electronic funds or banking. Bad part is you guys have options still to donate by credit card, paypal, personal check or cash (if your crazy). But for me I'm stuck and most hang in for the long haul for the site.