Mopar1973Man

Like my compressor failed on the shaft seal. I never did find dye anywhere in the evaporator, lines, pressure switches, condenser, etc. So I replaced my compressor and 3 years of leak free A/C now and wonderfully cold. So cold at times you have to roll down the windows to warm up again.

Absolutely. As stated by Idaho... As for Instate travel I'm not fond of the 80 MPH speed limits now. Even empty truck it just way too fast for my blood and the truck my MPG's are way low at those speeds. Not fond of running the tach at 2,300 RPM's just not efficient for my rig at all. CSM as for your EGT's and such is because of the 4 speed gears ratios. Your overdrive is lower ratio than my 5 speed (0.75) or even a 6 speed (0.73). But when you drop back to 3rd or out of over drive your back to direct (1:1) ratio. Just like when I drop from 5th to 4th is the same thing I get direct (1:1).

I'm only 5k away from 200k on this pump. Rollin' Rollin' keep those pumps a rollin'...

Absolutely. I see way too many people doing the drag racing to the top of a grade. Matter of fact I had it happen on my way home for Ontario, OR. Crazy Ford owner didn't like my 55 MPH tow speeds and attempt to try to pass going up a 6% grade and couldn't do it. I just left my cruise set for 55 MPH and ran 4th gear over the grade. Held a nice warm 1,100*F over the grade. Boost running 20-25 PSI.

Like still with my stock HX35W turbo I still peak out at 36-37 PSI and the the boost elbow pops open the wastegate and it falls to 34-35 and stays.

Thanx... That Subaru was driving me crazy. She admitted o me that she been adding freon and the span was getting shorter and shorter between recharging. I started out with a basic recharge and added dye to the system. Ask her to drive with the A/C on as much as possible to push the dye around. She just left it parked most of the time. So it came back I added even more dye and small amount of freon to hopefully get it to push out. Left it run for over 30 minutes with the A/C black lighted it that evening and nothing. Got up the next morning and black lighted again PRESTO the green stood out like a sore thumb you could miss it. So that being said I would add the dye to the air conditioning system recharge it like normal. The drive it around for a few days. Every evening in the dark break out the black light and check all the joints for green to show up. I know NAPA sells the black light flashlight. Here you go. https://www.google.com/#q=black+light+flashlight&tbm=shop As for the photo any digital camera can see UV. Just shine your TV remote at your digital camera and you can see the LED light up in the camera but you can't with the naked eye... (Mopar1973Man Trick)

You win... Automatic are horrid for hold back power. The do fine for pulling but even my 96 Dodge is bad about steep grades. You end up riding the brakes to the bottom. So yeah... I would say you better off with a 17" wheels and 3rd Gen brakes that would improve the braking power and might do bit better for pad life.

Before doing all that I would do the o-ring seals first. Also I would also add a shot of UV dye and use a black light to find the leak. Like my last chase I finally found the leak on a 2001 Subaru. The compressor failed.

No different that my pig or beast...

Maybe like this...

I tend to agree. Out here its common practise to see people drive it till the injectors fail. Then the owner gets the bad news the engine is ruined and needs at least a short block and new injectors. I don't know of many that have made it past 200k miles without issues starting to sneak in. If you not willing to test the injectors I would test the oil looking for fuel in the oil.

I typically buy the cheapest pads I can get. Why? Because I want something with the least amount of metallic compounds that is not going to eat the rotors. As for pad life I get 185k miles from OEM pads and will do my next brake service at about 360k miles roughly. Why? Exhaust brake is used for 90% of my stopping power so brake pedal is rarely ever touched. So ultimately if you want the longest life from brake pads you need a exhaust brake.

You might want to check the download area... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/files/file/70-1999-dodge-ram-fsmzip/ I can share many photos I've got 193 MB worth of photos regarding the fuel system. So you'll have to specify a bit more...

Welcome to the family. Thank you for the great comments. We are nothing more than a collection of diesel heads, diesel owners, you name it. But there is very little competition here it more about just keep them ticking.

Dorkweed I would consider having them at least yanked out and tested. Eventually those injectors have to be getting tired and sloppy.

Yesterday I got to sample the windows visors. I love them already. I can roll down the windows just a little bit and increase the flow through the A/C to cool the truck down fast. Not to mention not getting buffeted by the wind and hit by the hapless bee.

I'm also using a South Bend clutch and do tow a 8,000 pound RV with no issues. Just ask JAG1 about the tires breaking loose in 4th gear going up a 7% grade.

I'm going to say the rear diff sensor is bad and creating false high speeds which the Edge juice is picking up. I would look at replacing the rear sensor first..

You need a quicker spooling turbo to clean up the smoke. But ultimately I would say a fuelling module like Edge Comp or Edge Juice but I can't. Reason being you can set the defuel mode to compensate for over fuelling vs boost to clean up the smoke. So like my setup I'm set for 5x3 (120 HP but only 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost). This allows me much great control over the fuel vs a Special X pump that is all fixed permanently and doesn't play well with electronics. The PSG (module on top of the VP44) requires 3 hours time on the Bosch 815 test stand to be calibrate properly. During the testing every thing is test and calibrated then the PSG is flashed with its own software when it passes all testing. So the Bosch VP44 is a stand-alone fuel pump. What I mean you can supply +12V power and ground and the truck will start and idle. The rest of the functions like timing and fuel management is controlled by the ECM. But the ECM is also a weak link in the whole performance design. You have to remember the ECM is only got software for stock fuel injectors and stock boost levels. So beyond that you when you reach beyond 20 PSI boost the software goes flat or defuel mode because you exceed the limits of the ECM. This is where a module like Edge or Quadzilla build the power. They can listen to the CANBUS and realize the ECM is at its limit and then take over and add more fuel and timing by the way of the wire tap on the injection pump. This way the module can command the pulse to start earlier and hold it holder making a timing advancement again and mode fuel being pumped. But again there is limits to how far you can go. If go out of range the VP44 will give the dead pedal feel and ignore the commanded fuel. More exploded view pictures here. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/437-bosch-vp44-injection-pump-exploded-view Let me know if you want any pictures of any parts I've got much much more. Also I still got the VP44 here to rip apart if needed. Basically the VP44 only has 2 electric solenoids. Fuel Pin Solenoid Timing Advancement Solenoid The only other electronic function is the pickup sensor which is for firing the fuel solenoid, also seeing if the commanded timing occurred or not (P0216 code), fuel temperature sensor which also controls timing. Colder the fuel temp more advanced timing is given. Like some poor soul reported to me that he will no longer mount a fan or heat sink to the VP44. What happens is you super cool the VP44 too much it will actual advance timing so far that when you go to restart the engine it will start and run BACKWARDS! This is very damaging.... Inside the PSG unit...

I would find another fuel pressure gauge just for the sake of double checking and testing purpose. Too much fuel pressure can cause some weird problems too.

That's should be on the tone wheel inside the VP44. I'm going to assume the trigger is the wide spots in the tone wheel. Since the cam ring and the pickup swivel advance or retard as commanded. Then the pickup would sense the wide spots for firing the fuel.

Ok... What your fuel pressure? Idling? Also at highway speed WOT? Still going to need the error codes. Something I fell in love with. OBDLink LX (Green) This little bluetooth dongle is excellent for anyone with a smartphone with bluetooth. Except iPhones then you need OBDLink MX WiFi. http://www.obdlink.com/

Like Quadzilla already said in my quote above is that the stock VP44 without modification can reach full advancement without any modules or programming. So this just means when timing is given. Since mechanical advancement is going to static like twisting and setting a distributor or the Special X VP44 vs. programming which is going dynamically alter the curve and when max timing is given. Like Russ Quadzilla XLT.

Keep going... P1693 code just means there is more codes. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins

So far I'm liking my made in China Black Lion's on the truck wearing very well. http://www.blackliontires.com/tires/BC86.html