Mopar1973Man

We just bought a vacuum pump kit for $14 from Rock Mountain Cummins in Boise, ID.

I'm going to try and get some envelopes tomorrow. I had a very busy day at work and didn't get a chance to get them.

ECM (Engine Control Module) is on the driver side of the engine block just behind the fuel filter. This controls solely the engine. PCM (Powertrain Control Module) is on the passenger side firewall with the 3 plugs. This controls the transmission, cruise control and voltage regulator. This is why I never suggest tapping the wire in that manner. I would rather use a stealth plate instead which give a good wire tap but water tight.

Not to hijack.. But NAPA prices fund there race car in NASCAR from what I know. Check out a VP44... NAPA http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Diesel-Fuel-Injection-Pump-Remfd/_/R-NECXTD2H301_0487392506 Vulcan Performance http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VP44-SO-1998-5-02-Dodge-5-9L-24V-235-Hp-VP44-Bos-p/iis0470506027.htm Back to the thread subject...

No need for the bbcode tags the site software is intelligent to see the link is youtube typically and automatically embed the video for you. It should look like this below. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuEnZskaXg8 Fairly simple process...

The only thing I can think of is one brush isn't making proper contact so 2 of the 4 bushes are working so only half the motor is pulling so it requires more amperage to turn the engine over.

Another thought. If I was to hit the donation amount each month. That's $4,800 for the year. Then deduct the expenses of $2,500 (projected). That's $2300 profit for the year, or $191 a month, $6.38 per day. That's not much really. I make better money working with Lindy as Diesel Mechanic at $20 a hour. I'm still giving more than I'm getting. I still lay in bed at night with my laptop and still working HTML and PHP code every night. I'm still doing my coding and web site administration for nothing. When you look at the national average for web site admin at $70k a year. I know this little site could never create that kind of income but geez... $6.38 per day I know 99.9% of the people get paid better at there jobs. To hit that mark I would be $5,833 a month. The donations are at $400 a month now...

Using information from last year and adjusting for this years cost I'm figure on total operation cost of about $2,500 roughly as it stands right now. Which will most likely change because I've got to build the store up for security and SSL Certificates are very expensive. Like the first thing to sell out of the store is going to be these badges. Give me a bit of time I've got a few things to set up and get my shipping straighten out a bit before I place them.

I might try that tomorrow when I roll into work. I'll grab the heat gun.

I also use a dial tire pressure gauge and it's right on the money for the most part.

Because Wild & Free mention his tire pressure are set for 50 PSI in the front axle. So doing this systematically I figure I would drop 5 PSI front and rear and see how things ran from there. Hence I I made this thread thanking Wild & Free for the stated pressure. Because over-inflating does create wandering and instability issues. Even at calculated pressure it just a bit too high. But now drop the 5 PSI off and it very smooth and stable. Let got of the wheel and even the trucker ruts don't pull it around. I would rather figure out the cause of a issue that buying a bunch of mods to resolve a issue. (3rd Gen Track Bar, Steering box brace, etc.) So what I've done is returned a 12 year old truck back to like new with simple fixes than high dollar mods. I like free things don't you!?

I've still got my OEM Starter after 242k miles later. One set of contacts that's it.

Actually the hard start hot is excessive cranking pressure not cracked diaphragm. The 027 REV pumps should not have a diaphragm but a hard steel plate nothing to crack. But the problem is during cranking if the pressure is over about 12 PSI the VP44 gets over advanced and has a hard time starting. Optimal cranking pressure should be between 7-10 PSI. Really common for people with aftermarket pumps with adjustable regulators and they crank them up way too high trying to keep the WOT pressure above 14 PSI so there idle is way up at 20-22 PSI and cranking pressure ends up well above 15 PSI.

OMG! Cowboy! Very Very Impressive. Now seeing what you've done is more or less made a standalone gauge set for the 12V truck that doesn't rely on the CCD network or the CANBUS. I to the point now I want to start building something too. I was so impressed by that I need to get digging for something for the 24V now. I do like you design a bunch because its completely standalone and doesn't rely on any engine sensor or computer information. (12V on have the PCM for minor stuff...)

Front tires at 53 PSI which is my calculated pressure minus 5 PSI. This is figuring on 4410 front axle weight. Rear tires at 39 PSI which is my calculated pressure minus 5 PSI. This is figuring on 3340 rear axle weight. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/general-cummins/35-exterior/354-tire-inflation-formula Single Tire: (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure So your pressure requirement will vary from tire size, tire capacity, etc. So make sure to do the math first before just attempting to use my numbers. I've got both sets of numbers already for fully loaded and empty truck.

More info. I gather its something I gotta build? What do I buy? Where do I buy the stuff? What's it cost?

There is a write up for the starter contacts. As for doing starter brushes LarryB has a full rebuild kit for cheap.

The only thing I can think of is engine oil. Nothing else near it.

Still want more information... I'm looking for something like that to tap the CANBUS and/or CCD network and get more information. Could I produce somthing like this for the 24V? Seriously I'll toss my ScanGauge in a heartbeat if I could...

More information wanted. What are you using... Homemade? I want to know...

Here is one article I just remembered... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/450-valve-seal-spring-valve-replacement-24v-head

Apparently the oil is getting push past the seal into the pump if the power steering fluid is black with engine oil. I've never really paid attention to the seal placement is it riding on the input shaft or what... But some how your getting oil into the power steering. Unless the power steering system is that contaminated. Still scratching my head.

Just little things I've done has extended the life span of the front end. Like power steering flushing, adjustment of the gear box, using a grease needle and injecting grease in the joints without zerks, tire pressures, size smaller tires, etc. 242k miles now and only replaced the ball joints and the track bar. Not bad. JAG1 you'll see when you get down here.

Get this tool. Then just run TDC and remove the springs... Then change your valve seals.

Sounds like the engine oil is getting into the power steering through the front seal of the power steering pump. Sounds like you might be due for a pump change. I would flush the system out before you hook up the return lines to be sure to flush the engine oil back out.