Mopar1973Man

Yea... It was dry. Marked right on the seal "Install dry". Real PITA to smack in with the cover in place.

Hmmm... I've been using 120 ft/lbs on my truck so I could get the lugs loose when I do get a flat.

Well... I learned a bunch doing this job. As for installing the seal into cover and then putting the cover back on is insane with edges full of fresh silicone. Much easier to install the cleaned cover and then install the crank seal. I did the same thing and drove the seal in just a bit deeper to make it ride in a different spot. Great minds think alike. Heck in 240k miles and crank seal is being replaced. No biggy. Next time I'll most likely order the seal with the sleeve. As for removal of the seal a screwdriver and rubber hammer and it pop out in a few hits. Still pickin' silicone off my hands and arms.

Well I'm on my way of the crank seal now. My garden hose is frozen so I'm thawing it out so I can power wash the front cover. Nasty looking. I might not get the leak fixed. I notice the crank has a bit of groove in the spot where the front lip rode.

Would some like to create a article of all this AirDog data it might be something others would like to do is rebuild it themselves.

Also make sure to tighten your lugs evenly. You can create a out of true rotor by uneven torquing of the lugs. Rotors could be warped from previous brake drag.

I just did a vacuum pump rebuild for a whole $13 bucks and about 2 hours time... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/469-vacuum-pump-rebuild

As far as what I understand about ECM's most are sold as blanks with no software installed being there is so many versions of software.

As for the calipers you didn't clean the pistons up and check them for size? With all the seals out the pistons should drop to the bottom without being pushed. I typically tune each piston back to the bore using a fine grade of sandpaper and lightly sand the caked on brake fluid off the pistons. Little at a time check the piston to bore fit.

Check out this video...

Boost should be correct. I'm not sure why the calculation is off. Horsepower is going to be calculated flywheel power. Loop is a gasser function. Timing is also a gasser function.

That would be it. The truck ended it life in a mild traffic accident. Still running but CajFlynn didn't want to mess around with fixing it up again. So it was sold the last I heard but it was still a running engine.

Well I've got wet spots along the bottom edge away from the actual seal. I'm not certain if if the cover leaking or not. So why chance it. I'll pull the cover and clean it up. Not a huge deal yeah it's going to add some time but like I said before I'd wanted to grab some gear case pics.

Any flash work has to be done with a DRBIII tool. So... You are more or less stuck to dealers unless you find someone with a DRBIII tool but that will be rare outside a dealer.

Your not going to get kicked but 12V mechanical lift pumps come up short on the upper end of RPM so they don't flow as well at high RPMs as they do with lower RPM's. so they aren't all the great either.

I've been multiple trips over 1,400*F and my old DiPricol was holding together fine for 10 years.

I've not notice any changes in vacuum just the oil leaking.

...and a bit Gimp'ing the image together and.... Now Dorkweed can't hide no more... LOL

Yea... I got my seal today and the silicone to do the cover. I figure I'll just pull the cover so I can get a good photo shoot of the gear case and internal parts.

As for mine I've replaced it twice now over 240k miles. But as for after market clutches it works just fine with my Southbend Clutch and no issues as of yet. First one wore out like you said it would self engage. The second one started leaking fluid in the cab and sucking air back in making it a requirement to pump the pedal to get the clutch to disengage properly.

I tend to agree with both above posts...

Make sure to talk to the dealer and be sure they are competent for working on Dodge Cummins Diesel. It not the same as a gasoline car. There is differences in programming and the different computers. Some dealers don't understand how to properly re-flash or update flash most vehicles.

Heck at this rate I'll save a bunch of time on the seal too. Thanks Guys...

No. VP44 stayed in.

Same here...