Mopar1973Man

Man TFaoro, I wish your problem was as easy as mine. After changing the cross over tubes and this this weekend hitched up and went to Huntington, Oregon to go out for the first RV trip of the year. Absolutely no more miss and the truck ran strong. I hate to say it but I guess you going down that road of full pull down to see what's going on. Something isn't right cylinder wise.

If there is no codes just go for the smog test. The CHECK ENGINE LIGHT always comes on for a bulb test and goes out after starting. As long as there is no codes and no CHECK ENGINE light you are fine.

True, But the plug hole could be aluminium or cast iron so the little anti-seize is still a plus when you have people that drive till the electrodes are gone.

Major pressure drop (greater than 5 PSI) while operating is a sign of weak lift pump. Most or less the demand volume of the engine is out weighing the supply volume of the lift pump. Like my setup I idle at 17 PSI and 15 PSI at WOT. This is a sign your pump is keeping up with the demand.

What's the error code? You'll have to resolve the error for the code to be erased. Disconnecting the batteries will NOT reset any codes or reset any of the computers.

More here... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/28-transmission-systems/260-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues And here http://forum.mopar1973man.com/index.php?/topic/4988-torque-converter-lock-unlock-issues/

Down at Lindy's shop Anti-seize is a commonly used supply. Everything from lugs nuts, to front-end hardware, you name it. I also use it in spark plugs. It really does make removal later a snap. Thanks CSM about the conductive warning I'll remember that.

Up here in McCall, ID they make a bucket extender that widened the front bucket and also makes it longer. It all bolts onto the existing front bucket.

Sound like the gear box needs adjustment maybe? Sector adjustment. Someone needs to verify the steering linkage is tight too.

Ok. Question do you do the compression test on a cold engine? You might do a blow by test on cold and hot and see if there is a measurable difference. Then if you can quick enough pull the injectors and re-do your compression test hot. I'm wondering if it like JL Welding where he had a cracked piston that would only open up after fully heated. Plain weird... Diesels are such simple engine only requiring compression and fuel. To have a misfire means either one or the other is missing. The only thing that crosses my mind as a odd factor is possibly timing? I know the lines if removed in a group you can't mess up. front group is 1,2,4 the rear group is 3,5,6. Firing order is 1,5,3,6,2,4. The only reason I'm thinking this is common for people with gassers to cross plug wires and get a odd miss that never goes away. So did your fuel leak stop too on the manifold?

Here is a list of chemical and their compatibility with EPDM rubber roofs. http://www.fbs-online.com/Centre/Prod/EPDM-chem-com-res.htm

Yes. That is actual size of FASS vs. AirDog. That was one of the reasons I didn't buy a FASS was the pure size was hard to hide on our trucks.

That's better that what Rocky Mountain Cummins (of Boise, ID) quoted me for one cross over tube at $166.40 a piece (or $998.40 for six).

Why? We've got a few good vendors for gauges here. Vulcan Performance, DAP, etc.

I highly suggest you pull that noise filter out and replace the alternator. If you leave the noise filter in you will most likely destroy the ECM, PCM and VP44 next.

My cross over tubes so far have made a good change to my truck and how it runs. As for misfire I'm not going to call it cured yet till I do some long hauls and see. Now as for my grid heater gasket I love to steal yours. But mine are on there way and be at work by Monday.

Same thing a seal. Just comparing old photos again...

Out of adjustment latch? Most I work on are needing adjustment and the latch lubed up.

Here is the rest of that for you. The Effects of Rotational Inertia on Automotive Acceleration I got to admit this is a awesome thread with plenty of info.

We had a wonderful phone call tonight.

Ed right... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes/155-p0168-decreased-engine-performance-due-to-high-injection-pump-fuel-temperature

I've done the drill and fish method and it works too.

Bought mine back in 2006 so its nearly 10 years old and I've got nearly 200k miles on it.

I've got a intake manifold gasket set coming to the shop. Mostly likely get it when I get home.

If my AirDog 150 dies I'm going for a full FASS 150. But I'll call Eric at Vulcan Performance then order me a full fitting and hose kit for remote mounting the pump. I will install the FASS in the bed wall. This will allow for guarding the filters, keep the filters out of the direct cold wind and keeping the pump close to the fuel tank.